Clutch acceptable clearance
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
Clutch acceptable clearance
Alright folks I need some opinions and advice. I'm currently installing a RXT and steel flywheel into my 07 Z06. A new GM slave and GM MC are both being used. I measured "A" and "B" according to Ticks and Mcleods instructions.
Once you get A and B, B has to be 1/16-1/8 less than A. Which my measurement came out to 3.350 for A and 3.275 for B with a final measurement of 0.075. According to the next step, You minus A from B and you need to be within 0.125-0.200 for the recommended clearance. This is where I'm having trouble. I called Mcleod and they said I do not need a shim.
However, I am hearing from other RXT users that with my final measurement I will need a shim....... at this point I am at a holt till I figure out what to do.
Once you get A and B, B has to be 1/16-1/8 less than A. Which my measurement came out to 3.350 for A and 3.275 for B with a final measurement of 0.075. According to the next step, You minus A from B and you need to be within 0.125-0.200 for the recommended clearance. This is where I'm having trouble. I called Mcleod and they said I do not need a shim.
However, I am hearing from other RXT users that with my final measurement I will need a shim....... at this point I am at a holt till I figure out what to do.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
0.075" free clearance is on the tight side, and not the best thing when you start to heat the clutch up.
On shims, they are used when the free clearance is too large, and are placed between the back of the slave and the front of the torque tube. This keeps the slave from having to over extend outwards to disengage the clutch.
So in your case, would double check to make sure that you have the clutch and flywheel installed correctly to begin with, and if push came to shove, would mill the base of the slave to get the ideal clearance for the TB instead.
Hence if you don't have the needed clearance for the through out bearing so it not kept engage against the fingers at all times, your going to have this problem instead.
On shims, they are used when the free clearance is too large, and are placed between the back of the slave and the front of the torque tube. This keeps the slave from having to over extend outwards to disengage the clutch.
So in your case, would double check to make sure that you have the clutch and flywheel installed correctly to begin with, and if push came to shove, would mill the base of the slave to get the ideal clearance for the TB instead.
Hence if you don't have the needed clearance for the through out bearing so it not kept engage against the fingers at all times, your going to have this problem instead.
Last edited by Dano523; Jan 21, 2017 at 12:47 AM.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
Thank you for the response, I am aware of the shims. Ive removed everything and followed all torque specs and procedures. I'm given Mcleod a call and they say I should be fine. I will take a look at shaving some of the slave. thanks
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,090
Likes: 1,258
From: Harbor City California
As long as you have 1/8"-1/4" of clearance your good to go.
The tighter side will cause a high pedal engagement while the later will cause a lower clutch pedal engagement.
All clutch's say they dont need a shim. If you measure you will find that some do and some dont (even same year and same clutch).
The tighter side will cause a high pedal engagement while the later will cause a lower clutch pedal engagement.
All clutch's say they dont need a shim. If you measure you will find that some do and some dont (even same year and same clutch).
