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Bottom wire with the longer heat shrink section. The fuse link is just a smaller diameter wire between the larger wire and the connector, with some flame proof paste over the smaller wire under the heat shrink tubing.
To see if the link is bad, just run a continuity test from the positive battery cable disconnected, to the terminal on the back of the alternator under the rubber cover. If no continuity between these points, then really need to get under the car to check to make sure that the alternator lug has not snapped off the alternator solenoid with both wires just dangling now isntead.
But even with this fuse link blown (battery will not be charged if the link is blown), you should still have power to the car/should be able to jump the car, since the link is used between the alternator and the battery for charging, and the car has a separate battery wire to the fuse block under the hood as well.
So if you have power from the battery terminal to the fuse block terminal under the hood, then suspect that the negative ground wire in the above photo that bolts to the engine block is bad isntead.
Note, again, there is a separate negative wire from the battery terminal ground to the frame, so even if the car will not start, should still have power to the inside of the car like the radio if all the fuse are good in the fuse boxes.
As for if you did crack the terminal off the starter Solenoid, no worries, since you can just replace just the Solenoid on the starter isntead.
The Solenoid is a Waiglobal #66-161/Delco part# 10503939 ,and can be found for under $30.
Bottom wire with the longer heat shrink section. The fuse link is just a smaller diameter wire between the larger wire and the connector, with some flame proof paste over the smaller wire under the heat shrink tubing.
To see if the link is bad, just run a continuity test from the positive battery cable disconnected, to the terminal on the back of the alternator under the rubber cover. If no continuity between these points, then really need to get under the car to check to make sure that the alternator lug has not snapped off the alternator solenoid with both wires just dangling now isntead.
But even with this fuse link blown (battery will not be charged if the link is blown), you should still have power to the car/should be able to jump the car, since the link is used between the alternator and the battery for charging, and the car has a separate battery wire to the fuse block under the hood as well.
So if you have power from the battery terminal to the fuse block terminal under the hood, then suspect that the negative ground wire in the above photo that bolts to the engine block is bad isntead.
Note, again, there is a separate negative wire from the battery terminal ground to the frame, so even if the car will not start, should still have power to the inside of the car like the radio if all the fuse are good in the fuse boxes.
As for if you did crack the terminal off the starter Solenoid, no worries, since you can just replace just the Solenoid on the starter isntead.
The Solenoid is a Waiglobal #66-161/Delco part# 10503939 ,and can be found for under $30.
Is the fuse link going to the green connector?
Mine is rubbing agazinest the dip stick tube and may be damaged. What is the purpose of this wire? what happens when it is broken?. I have an electrical problem posted under 05 mn6 shift to reverse. You mention alternator lug, but are you talking about alternator or starter solenoid?
Is the fuse link going to the green connector?
Mine is rubbing agazinest the dip stick tube and may be damaged. What is the purpose of this wire? what happens when it is broken?. I have an electrical problem posted under 05 mn6 shift to reverse. You mention alternator lug, but are you talking about alternator or starter solenoid?
No the fuse link is under the long piece of heat shrink on the bottom cable coming off the bottom solenoid lug. Also, this link is only from the solenoid to the altinator, not from the solenoid to the battery.
The way that GM makes a fuse link, is to use one gauge smaller wire just before the crimp connector back to the main wire, coat it with a fire retardant compound, then install heat shrink tubing over it. Hence when the cable sees too many amps, it will be the smaller wire that burns out, instead of the entire cable burning up instead.
As for checking the fuse line with the battery still connected, go to the rubber boot on the back of the alternator, and used a multi meter to see if you have 12V from that terminal, to engine ground (any part of the engine).
The wire with the green shield is the positive wire from the solenoid terminal to the actual starter motor. When the solenoid is energized via the brown wire snap in connector, the starter motor will pull its positive power from this wire and use the body of the motor back to the bell housing for it ground point.
So if the green sheild wire is broken, the solenoid will still fire/energize, but the starter motor will not spin instead.
As for the entire car dead, the positive wire you should be looking at is from the battery to the engine fuse box, and the negative battery connector to the engine block just above the starter.
It the terminal to the left hand side with the smaller red connector wired on top of the battery connector to the terminal.
A quick test here, multi meter off the engine fuse block terminal with the battery still connected, to the battery ground post. This will tell you if the problem is in the positive wire or loose terminal nut itself.
Next test, engine fuse block terminal, to metal on the engine. This will tell you if the problem is in the battery negative cable or its end point to the engine block just above the battery.
If you have power both ways, then it time to dive into the engine fuse block to see if there is a problem there, with one of the lead wires burnt out instead.
Also, power goes from the engine fuse block to the fuse block on the BCM at the back well of the passenger foot well. So if you have power out of the engine fuse block, but still nothing in the car working, you need to check the fuse block at the passenger foot well next.
