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I did a search and may have missed it but,,
On the c6 A6, does the transmission have to be dropped to replace the fuel pump? I'm tossing on a supercharger and would like to switch out pumps but I fear it may be a little costly. I would like to do the work myself but not if it means dropping the tranny. Anyone have a write up on this?
I've seen some youtube videos but they seem to be manual cars.
Ok. I'm a dummy. I went through the DIY posts and read the fuel pump replacement guide and it seems doable the same as the M6 but just a bigger pain in the butt. So, if I'm patient then I may be able to drop the tank without dropping the tranny.
Ok. I'm a dummy. I went through the DIY posts and read the fuel pump replacement guide and it seems doable the same as the M6 but just a bigger pain in the butt. So, if I'm patient then I may be able to drop the tank without dropping the tranny.
I did this on my A6 C6 and did lower the transmission/diff cradle to access the transfer tube.
I made it easy by unbolting the intake manifold and moving it forward an inch or two (before jacking up the car) was able to lower the cradle as much as I wanted for better access safely.
I installed the pump and very glad I did no puncture fuel tank no extra lines to run along the length of the car or need for it, boost a pump been there done that is just a band aid it will come off.
Ended up with is a complete high power fuel system factory lines factory fuel rails no add on's all stock looking and function only other thing changed was fuel injectors, I never hear the pump or see it other than the factory fuel lines.
I know is work to change the pump but is the rite thing to do. I'm darn proud I did. -NOW GO DO THE RITE THING -!
just install an ECS stage 1 fuel kit and forget about dropping the tank.
never knew about that ecs product. that looks like it would save some time and money. doesn't look too hard, other than punchy a hole in the tank . thanks for the info. you msystem have just saved me a lot of time and bloody knuckels....
I have been running a Boost-A-Pump for a while and not had any problems. When I installed it, I did also install a Racetronix fuel pump wire harness. https://www.racetronix.biz/p/c56-fue...rness/fpwh-008 This is a good upgrade for any Corvette actually. Prevents any voltage drop which can happen with the stock wiring in the car.
If you are going to do the in-tank pump, you should also get a Racetronix intermediate pump harness to upgrade all the wiring while you have access.
In the future, I would like to upgrade to a higher capacity in-tank pump and get rid of the BAP. I would like to install either a ZO6 pump or a Racetronix fuel pump module which is a stock pump assembly but with a Walbro 450.
The ECS pump kit is nice but not cheap. If you are doing the work yourself, upgrading the in-tank would be a cheaper option.
Yup ... I also installed a Boost-A-Pump. Some folks think that since it provides increased voltage to the stock fuel pump, that the pump won't last long.
Well, it only increases fuel pump voltage when your in boost (mine is set to increase voltage at 4 PSI and above by the Hobbs switch).
How much time do you spend above 4 PSI boost? .... not for long periods of time, and not that many times if your car is a daily driver or garage queen. Mine has worked flawlessly now for 3 years
_______________________________________
Maximum LS3 Fuel Pump Flow with Installed Boost-A-Pump
Increases Pump Voltage From: . . . .13.5 Volts . to: .17.5 Volts . .(Only When Above 4 PSI Boost)
Gearheads,
Im trying to make sure I get this reinstalled right the first time and I've seen some questions about this but not really an answer. During my battle to disconnect the crossover tube my lines were stuck together so I manged to get a long pick into separate the lines. When it came out I had a broken small yellow o-ring and the first picture of the male end of the crossover there are black plastic pieces. My question is are the black piece supposed to stay on the male side of the cross over when installing and do it need to replace that o-ring or did that just come lose from the female side of the fuel line and nothing is supposed to be on the male side? I have just ordered a new fuel line for the tank which is the last picture just making sure I dont need to have the black pieces and o-rings if they will be part of the new line I ordered. Thanks for the help in advance.
Gearheads,
Im trying to make sure I get this reinstalled right the first time and I've seen some questions about this but not really an answer. During my battle to disconnect the crossover tube my lines were stuck together so I manged to get a long pick into separate the lines. When it came out I had a broken small yellow o-ring and the first picture of the male end of the crossover there are black plastic pieces. My question is are the black piece supposed to stay on the male side of the cross over when installing and do it need to replace that o-ring or did that just come lose from the female side of the fuel line and nothing is supposed to be on the male side? I have just ordered a new fuel line for the tank which is the last picture just making sure I dont need to have the black pieces and o-rings if they will be part of the new line I ordered. Thanks for the help in advance.
It has been a LONG time since I pulled those
But if I remember correctly I had the same thing happen but you basically need to put the o-rings back in place then the black cap will hold them there
Thanks for the links and info it all helped. I got everything reinstalled and running. I initially put in the fuel I had drained out which was about 5 gallons everything was fine guage was reading and no visible leaks. I went to the gas station put in about 11 gallons and now the guage reads empty and I have a message to "service fuel system" any clue what could have gone wrong? The sensor that came on the sending you seemed correct and was not binding when installed and was reading just fine with 5 gallons in the tank. Do I just need to throw an obd2 reader on and clear it or drive it and see if the tank emptying will reverse the signal if they some how sent me the wrong sensor? Thanks again.
It’s possible it’s the wrong sender. They changed the operation at some point, on one version the resistance increases with fuel level and the other version is the opposite.
It’s possible it’s the wrong sender. They changed the operation at some point, on one version the resistance increases with fuel level and the other version is the opposite.
also possible fuel isn’t transferring correctly
which sender did you change?
I went with the racetronix set up I had heard a lot of good things and it comes with the upgrade pump so I don't have to do it later when I start upgrading and adding power.
A6 and fuel pump/replace
