Katech LS9 head stud questions
--there is no info in the box. Does anyone have the final torque spec fir the M12 head studs? ARP Head BOLTS call for 130 ft/lbs, but I want to make sure studs are the same.
--the M12 Katech stud only has about an inch of threads on it where it screws into the block. This seems odd to me because there is roughly 2" of threads in the block...is there a reason why they aren't as long as a ARP or factory bolt is and only use the top inch of threads in the block?
--When the M12 Katech stud is screwed into the block and fully seated (when the stud's shank hits the threads) and I put on the head, then the washer...the bottom thread of the stud is just about flush with the washer. I have milled the head .030" and am using a .012" thinner gasket (so approx .042" shorter overall). There isn't enough thread depth there to properly torque the nut without bottoming out/running out of threads of the stud. Yes, the holes are cleaned, chased, and blown out. The studs are screwed in as far as they can go and each one is like this. With the nuts bottoming out on the stud before proper torque is met, this will be a major issue.
It it seems like these studs might be incorrect, but the box and part numbers all jive. Does anyone have any experience or info with these?
Thanks!
--there is no info in the box. Does anyone have the final torque spec fir the M12 head studs? ARP Head BOLTS call for 130 ft/lbs, but I want to make sure studs are the same.
--the M12 Katech stud only has about an inch of threads on it where it screws into the block. This seems odd to me because there is roughly 2" of threads in the block...is there a reason why they aren't as long as a ARP or factory bolt is and only use the top inch of threads in the block?
--When the M12 Katech stud is screwed into the block and fully seated (when the stud's shank hits the threads) and I put on the head, then the washer...the bottom thread of the stud is just about flush with the washer. I have milled the head .030" and am using a .012" thinner gasket (so approx .042" shorter overall). There isn't enough thread depth there to properly torque the nut without bottoming out/running out of threads of the stud. Yes, the holes are cleaned, chased, and blown out. The studs are screwed in as far as they can go and each one is like this. With the nuts bottoming out on the stud before proper torque is met, this will be a major issue.
It it seems like these studs might be incorrect, but the box and part numbers all jive. Does anyone have any experience or info with these?
Thanks!
ill definitely be talking with katech tomorrow about it...I was more just curious to see if anyone has noticed these same things I have with the stud length/depth.
Last edited by Brandon619; Mar 12, 2017 at 11:11 PM.
OP you need ARP head studs they have longer threaded area very important for the life of the alum threads.
I have my Frick Flow milled .150 thous and single washer no problem using their hex head bolts.
I was tired of putting up with heads studs upper fine thread damage due to nearby headers so is back to bolts for me.
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