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So beginning of February I bought an 07 Z51. Noticed belt squeak and balancer wobbling. Dealer was nice enough to put on a new balancer, bolt and belts free of charge. Now, less than 800 miles later the bolt came out, balancer fell off and it shredded the AC belt. Looks like it took out the front main seal because there's oil everywhere. Looks like the balancer is grinding on the front of the crank since the bolt is jammed against the rack. SO, I'm going to send it back to the dealer. What are some unseen problems this can cause. I've read about timing chain bolts coming loose. Is it possible the crank wobbled and caused some bearing wear? What about stripped threads in the crank? Also, does the GM bolt have thread lock on it already? Doesn't seem to have any on it.
I'm betting they reused the same bolt from the first time. Can't do that.
That could be. I've also read that sometimes the right pulling/putting back on tool isn't used. It is possible to do it without the tool but it can make it go in slightly askew. This could do in the crank as well. I take it this is a Chev dealer?????
That could be. I've also read that sometimes the right pulling/putting back on tool isn't used. It is possible to do it without the tool but it can make it go in slightly askew. This could do in the crank as well. I take it this is a Chev dealer?????
the dealer would have the proper tools to do the job just not the proper people in this instance
It seems like we're telling people to stay away from dealerships at least a couple times a week on this forum, but no one seems to listen... You would think they would listen after all the horror storys that have been told on this and other car sites , but they just keep going to the dealerships and getting screwed. I realize a few people claim to have a good dealership they use , but from all the storys I've read on the screw ups at dealerships, there must be one hell of a lot of bad ones . One time their trying to charge you to fix things that don't need to be fixed, the next time their incompetent mechanics screw up the job and damage your car...... I guess warning people just doesn't work..
What we really need is for "all of us" to assemble a database of shops that do excellent work for each state.. That way a person that needs repair work done to their car can look at the list of shops near them, then pick one knowing that shop will do excellent work, at a fair price.... Wouldn't that be nice.......WW
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It seems like we're telling people to stay away from dealerships at least a couple times a week on this forum, but no one seems to listen... You would think they would listen after all the horror storys that have been told on this and other car sites , but they just keep going to the dealerships and getting screwed. I realize a few people claim to have a good dealership they use , but from all the storys I've read on the screw ups at dealerships, there must be one hell of a lot of bad ones . One time their trying to charge you to fix things that don't need to be fixed, the next time their incompetent mechanics screw up the job and damage your car...... I guess warning people just doesn't work..
What we really need is for "all of us" to assemble a database of shops that do excellent work for each state.. That way a person that needs repair work done to their car can look at the list of shops near them, then pick one knowing that shop will do excellent work, at a fair price.... Wouldn't that be nice.......WW
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Thanks? I guess. The dealer has been pretty good, worked on a car with no warranty, gave me a brand new car off their lot to drive and kept my car inside, didn't cost me a penny. This particular dealer is pretty active with local corvette clubs and treats corvettes pretty well. They're always parked inside and only driven when necessary. I see no reason to not give them a chance to make it right, won't cost me anything. I'm certainly not going to pay another shop $1000 to fix what they broke or spend any of my time under it. Will I take it to the dealer when something else breaks? Nope. Maybe I'll take a lawn chair up there this time and watch the tech do it.
Thanks? I guess. The dealer has been pretty good, worked on a car with no warranty, gave me a brand new car off their lot to drive and kept my car inside, didn't cost me a penny. This particular dealer is pretty active with local corvette clubs and treats corvettes pretty well. They're always parked inside and only driven when necessary. I see no reason to not give them a chance to make it right, won't cost me anything. I'm certainly not going to pay another shop $1000 to fix what they broke or spend any of my time under it. Will I take it to the dealer when something else breaks? Nope. Maybe I'll take a lawn chair up there this time and watch the tech do it.
Sorry about the rant... I'm just upset that people go to dealers to have work done, only to be ripped off or have their cars damaged...Your case is all to typical of the results of going to a dealership.. I understand that your now in too deep to go elsewhere and you have no choice but to follow through, but at least ask for another mechanic since the first one has already proven he's incompetent .. For future repairs maybe get in touch with a local Corvette club and ask what shops they use..Good Luck.....WW
the dealer would have the proper tools to do the job just not the proper people in this instance
You would think the above is true, but that isn't always correct. Besides the fact that all techs bring their own tools with them, there are things/special tools that dealers don't always have, even those that are allegedly required to service Corvettes. That also includes parts---for instance, gas pedal position sensors---first-hand knowledge.
do it yourself... use a good damper.. do it once ..do it right.. no bs later...
i got to the point where i wouldnt even let dealerships touch my vehicles fr recalls or warranty work...it seems every time i did they made things worse
if you dont want to tackle a job like that ...ask around find a shop that others trust...if they are good..pay them whatever they want.and keep going back to them
dealerships suck ***....i have had many many many experiences with dealership..bmw,chevrolet,ford,acura,hon da,mitsubishi,subaru,mercedes, dodge.,jeep, and volkswagen,
and not one of my experiences was i not kick somebody in the face and rip their nuts off mad when leaving those places.. my motto is...i can **** up my car free of charge
You would think the above is true, but that isn't always correct. Besides the fact that all techs bring their own tools with them, there are things/special tools that dealers don't always have, even those that are allegedly required to service Corvettes. That also includes parts---for instance, gas pedal position sensors---first-hand knowledge.
the dealership supplies the factory Kent Moore LS specialty tool kits for their staff to use.not one mechanic in the business on his own could afford all the specialty tool kits for all makes and models.lots of dealerships share the tool kits between several dealerships.I work on my own and bought the factory Kent Moore LS tool kit.there are several kits and tools and I certainly don't have them all
the dealership supplies the factory Kent Moore LS specialty tool kits for their staff to use.not one mechanic in the business on his own could afford all the specialty tool kits for all makes and models.lots of dealerships share the tool kits between several dealerships.I work on my own and bought the factory Kent Moore LS tool kit.there are several kits and tools and I certainly don't have them all
I realize you will believe what you believe but here is post #1 from a long-time member on here: "...The official method involves installing the "J 42854 Trim Height Measuring Gage" on part of the suspension, then measuring the gap between the gage and some other part.
My dealer doesn't have the J 42854 and obviously has no experience in using it. Does anyone know of a dealer in the Chicago area who actually has this gage and knows how to use it?"
We can go back and forth on this and I could find more, but in my experience, all dealers do not have all equipment OR parts on hand. Your experience may vary but I've been to far more than one dealer.
I realize you will believe what you believe but here is post #1 from a long-time member on here: "...The official method involves installing the "J 42854 Trim Height Measuring Gage" on part of the suspension, then measuring the gap between the gage and some other part.
My dealer doesn't have the J 42854 and obviously has no experience in using it. Does anyone know of a dealer in the Chicago area who actually has this gage and knows how to use it?"
We can go back and forth on this and I could find more, but in my experience, all dealers do not have all equipment OR parts on hand. Your experience may vary but I've been to far more than one dealer.
that's exactly what I stated.they do share tools between techs and dealerships.any dealer that had all tools and every part for every model obviously would be bankrupt in no time.if you want the tool I have seen them as cheap as $100. on ebay
Picked the car up today. They replaced the front seal, balancer, bolt and both belts. Plus I had them change the oil. As much as I tried to explain the steps in the tsb and the friction washer, they didn't listen. I talked to the tech he said he put the balancer on with the tool, then tq'd to 250 ftlbs. With lock tite. At least the car is drivable until I get a chance to put a cam in it.
Tech claimed that last time he didn't follow the tq spec for some reason and didn't use locktite on the bolt.
Picked the car up today. They replaced the front seal, balancer, bolt and both belts. Plus I had them change the oil. As much as I tried to explain the steps in the tsb and the friction washer, they didn't listen. I talked to the tech he said he put the balancer on with the tool, then tq'd to 250 ftlbs. With lock tite. At least the car is drivable until I get a chance to put a cam in it.
Tech claimed that last time he didn't follow the tq spec for some reason and didn't use locktite on the bolt.
It already sounds like he messed up.
You install the balancer then use the OLD bolt and torque to 250 ft lb to ensure the balancer has seated. Then you REMOVE that bolt and install a new GM bolt since they are 1 time use. That bolt gets torqued to 37ft lb and then turned 140 degrees to stretch it.
There is no locktite needed as the bolts come with already on them.
Honestly sounds like the dealer messed up yet again
Yeah, I explained the process and gave them the tsb number. Got a bunch of explanations and them telling me their way is the way to do it. Yada Yada. I just let them do it their way, I'll fix it later.
37# plus 140 degrees is the correct way to tighten that bolt if it is the GM bolt. If it is an ARP, 250# may be correct, but I really doubt that a dealer is using an aftermarket bolt.
Either way, you are probably fine with 250# and Loctite