5W30 vs 0W40





I was interested in this topic because I live in New Jersey and I drive my '08 all year long.
Betty's teenage son might think there are big hp gains using Tony's motor oil, though! I can see the post now. "My buddy said I will gain 25 hp using this official NASCAR oil. And more mpg!"











Sorry for the brief humor, but we know age doesn't automatically include all knowledge.
Much of the "pressure" on EOM car makers comes from the EPA and CARB. As cars last longer & longer, they are determining what kills the catalyst and trying to get that stuff out. Small changes times many millions of daily drivers adds up.
In CA, CARB (Ca Air Resource Board) dictate our "special" gasoline specs, as we here in smog free CA
*get* to use. And it costs well OVER $1.00 a gallon MORE, LOL. Only a few out of state refiners can make all of the blend components, too (read $$$$$$$). Less sulfur, lower benzene, aromatics, lower olefins, Lower RVP, distillation curve changes, etc.SO, with oil recco's, MUCH of this is based on emissions IMV, NOT what serves the engine the best.
Perhaps Canada does NOT pressure GM to recco 3w-30 M1 due to zinc, phos, etc. But is more relaxed - so GM has more latitude? to really state what they want Vette's to use? MMT is an octane booster. Legal in Canada, NOT legal in US (mixed in MOGAS blends).
Complicated by Gov emission std & politics, not whats best for our engines, LOL.
PLUS, GM ships Vettes from Alaska to AZ (not to mention places like the Caymens, LOL). SO, their advice most be general and generic enough to be mostly safe for *everyone*. Even LS3's on small islands, LOL
Last edited by Chiselchst; Apr 29, 2017 at 04:07 PM.
OP's quote that pertains to this:
"The 5W30 flows better/quicker during cold start-up, to reach critical engine components quicker to prevent wear. And since cold start-up is where 90% of engine wear takes place, the thinner the oil is when cold, the better."
Last edited by Must_Have_Z; Apr 29, 2017 at 05:29 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
OP's quote that pertains to this:
"The 5W30 flows better/quicker during cold start-up, to reach critical engine components quicker to prevent wear. And since cold start-up is where 90% of engine wear takes place, the thinner the oil is when cold, the better."
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-road-use.html
What is the effect of changing from Dexos compliant 5W30 to Mobil1 15W50 for the track and back for road use? Some cars which are used on track a lot such as Porsches and GT-Rs recommend Mobil 1 0W40 for all uses, with no changes required when driving on track. Would this oil be fine for track and street use in the C7? What are the negative effects of leaving the 15W50 after track days and driving on the road, and at what temperatures is it an issue, hot or cold?
GM Propulsion Systems has validated all Corvette engines to operate with the DEXOS 5W30 for all but the most extreme track conditions. We recommend the use of Mobil 1 15W50 when the vehicle is going to be used for high temperature track operation as the higher viscosity range provides a greater degree of protection under the extreme stresses of that duty cycle. We like the extra lube performance in those conditions because, unlike some other manufacturers, driving on the track does not automatically void the warranty. However, daily driving use of the Mobil 1 15W50 on the street has not been validated, and as such we do not recommend its use where the operating temperatures can run lower. Some contributors to the thread correctly point out that few Corvette drivers operate their vehicles at extremely low temperatures, but as the manufacturer, we have to protect for that possibility. Another issue is that the 15w50 oil has higher phosphorous and ash content than we specify for factory fill. That is ok for track usage, but in long term street usage, those chemicals can compromise catalyst performance. As the manufacturer, we are expected to meet EPA emissions for a very long time. Lastly, the higher viscosity will also result in a small loss of fuel efficiency.
As for the Mobil 1 0W40, it was not available when we validated these engines and, in its currently available formulation, it also contains more phosphorous and ash than we specify. So, even if we validated the 0W40 for track use, we would still have to recommend reverting to a DEXOS 5W30 for daily street use.
Like all aspects of the auto industry, lubricants continue to improve over time. We work with Mobil and others to elevate the performance of their products and hence ours. We will continue to do that and when we have a better oil to ship in our engines or recommend for use on the track, we will do so.
One thing of interest that I've recently noted from the OPs testing of Mobil 1 5W30 vs. Mobil 1 0W-40 (Euro spec) oil is that the latter is much more resistant to thermal breakdown at elevated temperatures (~275*). Therefore, it may be a better oil for those of us who do road course/autocross racing where temps can get up into that temperature range.
For me, I'll stick with the 5W-30 with my stock bottom end and high volume oil pump, because I have more than enough pressure and I think that's what these engines were built for.
As far as why the 0W-40 oil is specified for the European market, I've been puzzled by that too. I wonder if this could be because the engines are built with different clearances for the euro market, if that us even possible? Or is it just a marketing ploy, because I've noted that manufacturers like BMW likes to specify thicker grade oil for their performance cars?
We have been having another discussion on another thread on this forum about a member who has a built engine with looser clearances and, consequently, lower oil pressures, and it clear that some folks thinks that whatever the factory recommends is the what should always be used.
This all reminds me that what folks need to know to decide on what viscosity oil they need to run is in fact the clearances of their engine. That's not to say that I agree with the old school train of thought that looser is better and you should just run a 40-50wt oil to keep pressure in the oil galley sufficiently high to keep an oil film on the bearing surfaces.
In the end, you need to know what your engine needs. No doubt GM has done a fair bit of research on this, because the liability from a factory warranty would dictate that's necessary.
But I'm still curious as to why they recommend the 0W-40 for the European market, if that's in fact the case?
Thanks again to the OP for sharing the benefits of his expertise on here.






Point is, there are a lot of things to consider other than viscosity (resistance to flow). The 0w-40 excels at HT/HS, has better TBN value, and actually flows better when much colder. That viscosity test at 104*F is not exactly what I consider to be a cold test.
I remember back in the day when 50wt oil and loose clearances were considered mandatory for racing, and then people like David Vizard (IIRC) started publishing dyno tests results with 30wt oil, and I thought, how strange!
But I've since learned that there's a lot more to oil than the viscosity rating.
That's why I think the OPs testing is invaluable. For once someone is actually independently testing the actual film strength of various oils and publishing the results. For that, he deserves some kind of medal, IMV.
I remember back in the day when 50wt oil and loose clearances were considered mandatory for racing, and then people like David Vizard (IIRC) started publishing dyno tests results with 30wt oil, and I thought, how strange!
But I've since learned that there's a lot more to oil than the viscosity rating.
That's why I think the OPs testing is invaluable. For once someone is actually independently testing the actual film strength of various oils and publishing the results. For that, he deserves some kind of medal, IMV.
We hot rod engine builders in the day, however, never thought through what it would take to get to 100,000 miles and more. We looked for "simple science" for the moment. We tended to build - rebuild to rebuild which, in a lot of cases, was nothing more than a season or even less.





We hot rod engine builders in the day, however, never thought through what it would take to get to 100,000 miles and more. We looked for "simple science" for the moment. We tended to build - rebuild to rebuild which, in a lot of cases, was nothing more than a season or even less.
Big clearances, Teflon buttons, 50 wt oil, high volume pumps, and 10-12 quart pans was the standard fare of the day. I wonder how much quicker I could have been if I would have known todays technology.










