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Recently picked up a 2013 427 Convertible. LS7 dry sump.
Decided to change my own oil. Did a bit or reading first. It actually went well I think.
I warmed it up first.
2 drain plugs. Dropped the OEM filter.
10 Quarts came out!
I used a K&N wrench on filter. MOBLE 1 synthetic.5W30.
Oil pan Had the car level on jacks.
put 8 Quarts back in. Warmed it back up.
nothing on the dip stick.
added 2 more Quarts. Seems ok.
is the K&N filter ok for the LS7?
any outher points of note would be appreciated.
Recently picked up a 2013 427 Convertible. LS7 dry sump.
Decided to change my own oil. Did a bit or reading first. It actually went well I think.
I warmed it up first.
2 drain plugs. Dropped the OEM filter.
10 Quarts came out!
I used a K&N wrench on filter. MOBLE 1 synthetic.5W30.
Oil pan Had the car level on jacks.
put 8 Quarts back in. Warmed it back up.
nothing on the dip stick.
added 2 more Quarts. Seems ok.
is the K&N filter ok for the LS7?
any outher points of note would be appreciated.
thank you.
Personally I would use the factory filter - I don't believe the K&N has the same micron filtration specs, and the cost is a wash. I also believe you can just run the car up on ramps and get almost all the oil oit -- it's not like the old C5 where it needed to be level. And --- at least you had a large enough drain pan -- an embarrassing mistake on my first oil change.
Personally I would use the factory filter - I don't believe the K&N has the same micron filtration specs, and the cost is a wash. I also believe you can just run the car up on ramps and get almost all the oil oit -- it's not like the old C5 where it needed to be level. And --- at least you had a large enough drain pan -- an embarrassing mistake on my first oil change.
You actually have to raise the rear if you want to get all the old oil out. Especially in the LS7 with the 2 plugs.
Also, agree on the oil filter. Stick with OEM or go with WIX. I use WIX, much cheaper than Mobil 1 but just as much, if not better, protection and performance.
You actually have to raise the rear if you want to get all the old oil out. Especially in the LS7 with the 2 plugs.
Also, agree on the oil filter. Stick with OEM or go with WIX. I use WIX, much cheaper than Mobil 1 but just as much, if not better, protection and performance.
Here's how I change my oil:
I noticed you have 8 Quarts of oil in yours. To get proper level on my 2013 dipstick I need 10 Quarts
I put 8 in. Ran it. Checked it. Nothing on the stick. I needed themail last 2.
You actually have to raise the rear if you want to get all the old oil out. Especially in the LS7 with the 2 plugs
Technically you are correct about having the LS7 level to get ALL the oil out. But by doing it on ramps (not level) you only leave a couple of ounces of old oil which is negligible over a 10 qt fill. It's not like the C5 with the baffled oil pan which retained a lot more oil if not changed while level. That's why I don't bother leveling my C6 LS7 when changing the oil.
Personally I would use the factory filter - I don't believe the K&N has the same micron filtration specs, and the cost is a wash. I also believe you can just run the car up on ramps and get almost all the oil oit -- it's not like the old C5 where it needed to be level. And --- at least you had a large enough drain pan -- an embarrassing mistake on my first oil change.
In the OP picture post if the old filter was OEM Delco and BLUE in color I suspect it was wrong. If you look up the OEM spec I believe it should be the BLACK color and the part number ends in R.
I have a GS Dry Sump with 10 quarts of oil and two drain plugs. Realize it is LS6 and not a 7 like yours. These cars run at higher oil pressure and need a filter that can handle it. Believe the Mobil 1 and K&N filters are both higher pressure.
Technically you are correct about having the LS7 level to get ALL the oil out. But by doing it on ramps (not level) you only leave a couple of ounces of old oil which is negligible over a 10 qt fill. It's not like the C5 with the baffled oil pan which retained a lot more oil if not changed while level. That's why I don't bother leveling my C6 LS7 when changing the oil.
When I did the oil change in my video, not much oil came out of the side drain plug when the rear was not raised. Once I raised the rear, way more than a few ounces came out the side plug!
To each their own, though. It only takes an extra 2-3 minutes to raise the rear, and if it means getting almost every drop of oil out, then it's worth it to me.
The K&N box mentioned that the filter was suitable for high burst pressures.
I had suspected that there had been a change in oil volume through the years. I wish the owners manual had addressd the fluid capacity more directly. They seem to dance around the subject. Unless I missed it.
LS7 Oil Change
