Wheel Hubs Done
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 314
Likes: 7
From: Holiday Florida
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
Wheel Hubs Done
I did the hub/bearings yesterday.
The J-tool J-42188-B... It's... I won't say worthless, but I was disappointed.
I was expecting it to slowly apply pressure to the ball joint until it popped.
What it did was bend and slip off the nut a lot.
It was good for applying pressure so that a good whack with a hammer knocked the ball joint loose. And it does it in such a way that you don't destroy your ball joint.
I'd read horror stories about getting the axle nuts off and then having the axles stuck in the hubs.
"Luckily" for me my axle nuts weren't tightened at all at the factory. The left-rear axle didn't even need a tap to free the splines.
I've had the loose axle nut clunk for years, neglected to do anything about it, now it's fixed!
I also have to admit that it's amazing how small vibrations sneak up on you and become large vibrations; and you only notice how large when you replace the offending parts.
By the way, what idiot engineer decided that it was a good idea to put one of the bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle right behind the ball-joint stud? There's nothing gained from orienting the bolt pattern to mask that bolt.
The J-tool J-42188-B... It's... I won't say worthless, but I was disappointed.
I was expecting it to slowly apply pressure to the ball joint until it popped.
What it did was bend and slip off the nut a lot.
It was good for applying pressure so that a good whack with a hammer knocked the ball joint loose. And it does it in such a way that you don't destroy your ball joint.
I'd read horror stories about getting the axle nuts off and then having the axles stuck in the hubs.
"Luckily" for me my axle nuts weren't tightened at all at the factory. The left-rear axle didn't even need a tap to free the splines.
I've had the loose axle nut clunk for years, neglected to do anything about it, now it's fixed!
I also have to admit that it's amazing how small vibrations sneak up on you and become large vibrations; and you only notice how large when you replace the offending parts.
By the way, what idiot engineer decided that it was a good idea to put one of the bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle right behind the ball-joint stud? There's nothing gained from orienting the bolt pattern to mask that bolt.
Last edited by Z09SS; May 21, 2017 at 09:38 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 8,672
Likes: 2,726
From: Atlanta GA
So was replacing them worth it ?
Did you do all of them ?
What is the mileage is your car ?
Thinking about doing it as i have an annoying vibration tgat is hard to describe , balance tires and rotors 3 times ...
Dave
Did you do all of them ?
What is the mileage is your car ?
Thinking about doing it as i have an annoying vibration tgat is hard to describe , balance tires and rotors 3 times ...
Dave
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 314
Likes: 7
From: Holiday Florida
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
132,328 miles.
I think it was well worth the effort. The car is SMOOTH again. This solved my mystery 50-60 vibration and a "buzz" that I could feel in my feet through the pedals but not actually hear.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,106
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I did the hub/bearings yesterday.
The J-tool J-42188-B... It's... I won't say worthless, but I was disappointed.
I was expecting it to slowly apply pressure to the ball joint until it popped.
What it did was bend and slip off the nut a lot.
It was good for applying pressure so that a good whack with a hammer knocked the ball joint loose. And it does it in such a way that you don't destroy your ball joint.
I'd read horror stories about getting the axle nuts off and then having the axles stuck in the hubs.
"Luckily" for me my axle nuts weren't tightened at all at the factory. The left-rear axle didn't even need a tap to free the splines.
I've had the loose axle nut clunk for years, neglected to do anything about it, now it's fixed!
I also have to admit that it's amazing how small vibrations sneak up on you and become large vibrations; and you only notice how large when you replace the offending parts.
By the way, what idiot engineer decided that it was a good idea to put one of the bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle right behind the ball-joint stud? There's nothing gained from orienting the bolt pattern to mask that bolt.
The J-tool J-42188-B... It's... I won't say worthless, but I was disappointed.
I was expecting it to slowly apply pressure to the ball joint until it popped.
What it did was bend and slip off the nut a lot.
It was good for applying pressure so that a good whack with a hammer knocked the ball joint loose. And it does it in such a way that you don't destroy your ball joint.
I'd read horror stories about getting the axle nuts off and then having the axles stuck in the hubs.
"Luckily" for me my axle nuts weren't tightened at all at the factory. The left-rear axle didn't even need a tap to free the splines.
I've had the loose axle nut clunk for years, neglected to do anything about it, now it's fixed!
I also have to admit that it's amazing how small vibrations sneak up on you and become large vibrations; and you only notice how large when you replace the offending parts.
By the way, what idiot engineer decided that it was a good idea to put one of the bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle right behind the ball-joint stud? There's nothing gained from orienting the bolt pattern to mask that bolt.
About 15 degrees rotation would allow the hub removal with less disassembly. Design is about cost of the part and ease of assembly. Ease of replacement of parts is low on the priority list of requirements as long as the expected lifetime exceeds the warranty.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 8,672
Likes: 2,726
From: Atlanta GA
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 314
Likes: 7
From: Holiday Florida
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14
