Taco22

I just picked up an 06 with 40k. The balancer is wobbling but a previous owner had it replace at the dealership( in another state) 2 years ago. Is there any warranty on this? also has slight oil leak, small drip at oil pan drain plug. Car has been sitting along time. Hoping it is the balancer seal. how long can you go without changing the balancer? Do they fly off? Any info would be great.

davidfarmer

does not appear to be a covered part by GM. They can fall off, but a wobble isn't the same as having one come unbolted and backing off.

http://www.chevrolet.com/certified-s...parts-warranty

Taco22

It's not backing off. The outer ring is wobbling not the inner part on the crank. Only 6k since repair. You would think it would last longer. Guess I'll put an aftermarket balancer on myself. Don't and can't trust the dealer.

AORoads

Usually, when a dealer does work, it's warrantied for a year. This one is out of warranty as far as I know. Glad you can replace it yourself; it seems like a difficult repair.

Dave S

Getting access to the crank bolt usually requires dropping the steering linkage. Not the easiest repair, but if you're a good mechanic then go for it. Plenty of tips here if you do a search for 'harmonic balancer replacement'.

BlindSpot

It's not going to be a job for the "faint of heart". It requires some R/R and movement of major components, plus some very heavy torque requirements. Just removing the HB bolt, I use a 3/4" breaker bar with a 3' extension. On assembly, if you're using the GM bolt and follow the torque to yield specs, here too, you'll need some significant leverage. I don't torque yield mine because of a unique pinning assembly I've designed and use, but a stock replacement will.

I know some do this on jackstands. I couldn't imagine doing this without a lift, but I'm older.

Taco22

I am a mechanic by trade and I have a lift so putting it in isn't a problem. Do you have any recommendations on which after market balancer to buy. don't really want an underdrive one and is just a daily driver so nothing over kill just never want to do it again.

Steve Haefner

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-917266

BlindSpot

I use a powerbond in a blown application. Here is a pic of the PB pinned but no one else pins this way to my knowledge. You won't need pinning on an NA app.

I chose this way to pin to provide a positive lock on the bolt as well as securing the HB. I also revised the torque specs as I no longer need to torque/yield which I do not like on this particular application. In torque/yield, and given both male and female components are the same materials and of the same hardness, the female component will have more thread deformation and yield, in this case, the crankshaft. So, with this design, I have assembly integrity and protect the threads in the CS over the factory torque/yield design and a positive lock on the bolt which some have reported have come completely loose and spun out while the engine was running.

With this design, BTW, I can completely disassemble, and reassemble without redrilling for a new pin, that includes using a new bolt, and I only need to drill the bolt. It required a tool to do it and I designed and built the tool to work with a Power Bond HB.

AORoads

I'm sure there is an "order of preference" but from what I've read, it's ATI, Power Bond, SLP (may only be underdrive), Summit Racing and others thereafter.

Dave S

ATI has a good reputation. They make both aluminum & steel shell units for each application. The aluminum shell is less expensive & last time I spoke with an ATI tech, he said that the aluminum shell is fine for a DD or mildly mod'd engine. The Powerbond unit also has a good reputation & is less expensive than the ATI.

Taco22

Anyone have any experience with the summit balancer. I looks just like the trickflow one.

davidfarmer

Ati is what GM Racing recommended in my World Chalenge days, and they have lots of options (steel, al, under drive etc). Highly recommend pinning , I use the ATI kit but you van just drill a hole by hand also.