header fitment issue
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Are you saying to tighten the x-pipe clamps fully before fully tightening at the engine?
I'm replacing the header gaskets, but I also have a rattle in the x-pipe area. I want to shore that up while I'm in there.
I don't think so, after getting it all in place loosely I would tighten the header bolts first because I would not want to put a lot of pressure on them trying to suck it all together being the heads are ALUMINUM !!!
I would rather "tweek" everything else if need be but get the header bolts tight first, JMHO.
I'm replacing the header gaskets, but I also have a rattle in the x-pipe area. I want to shore that up while I'm in there.

NSF
Last edited by Not So Fast; Jul 27, 2017 at 07:03 PM.
I would rather "tweek" everything else if need be but get the header bolts tight first, JMHO.
NSF
I would rather "tweek" everything else if need be but get the header bolts tight first, JMHO.
NSF

I tighten the bolts at the heads first also then work your way back
Bolts wont break unless you cross thread them on install which is very easy to do
also when removing the bolts I used " RUST BUSTER" from Home Depot , warm the engine just for a bit , don't get it to hot , spray around the bolt with rust buster and let sit for a few minutes .....then remove very slowly BY HAND as you don't want to PULL threads
I used anti seize on all the bolts and spun them in hand tight first using just the socket on the head of the bolt
if I could not get the bolt to start .... I removed the bolt and started over , the secret as someone else stated is you might need someone to hold the headers at the exact angle that they would be installed , if they are pulled back just a hair , it will change the angle of entry and cause cross threading
And remember when tightening the bolts don't go crazy , they only get tighten to 18-20 FT LBS . this is not much .... I bet I can figure out why some folks broke bolts
Easy install ... not much to screw up .....you can do it
Dave
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