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Staking rear axle nut

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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 07:43 PM
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Default Staking rear axle nut

I started a new thread due to all the other axle nut threads are very old and new information has come out in 2012.
So in 2012-2013 GM started "staking" the axle nut due to them constantly coming loose.
Is there a different nut or maybe a nut collar that is staked? My axles have a keyway in them so I know where we can do it, but want to fix the problem for good...
I guess I could double nut it...
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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by tdishon
I started a new thread due to all the other axle nut threads are very old and new information has come out in 2012.
So in 2012-2013 GM started "staking" the axle nut due to them constantly coming loose.
Is there a different nut or maybe a nut collar that is staked? My axles have a keyway in them so I know where we can do it, but want to fix the problem for good...
I guess I could double nut it...
Never heard the staking, but double nuts work for me. Take a felt pen and draw a line between the nuts and also across the outer nut through the axle. Easy to spot if anything moves.
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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 08:49 PM
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tightened mine once back in 2007, haven't loosened since, where did you get this "loosening constantly" from?
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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 10:47 PM
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The GM dealership service manager told me it has been an issue. That is who told me they fixed it in 2012-up corvettes with staking the collar/nut. I looked it up in my Haynes manual and it even showed staking the nut collar(section 8-7). It was loose on my corvette on the passenger side. That's when I looked on the forum and found several threads listing the issue. So I have to take back the "loosening constantly" statement and say it is an issue. Maybe once its retightened with a new nut and lock tight, the problem is fixed. I guess they even have a service bulletin out with the remedy.
I would like to double nut it or stake it if possible. I'm putting in new diff and axles on a different project and figured I would tackle everything now.

Last edited by tdishon; Oct 6, 2017 at 10:47 PM.
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 12:59 AM
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Mines have not come loose but whenever I removed them I used abundant red thread lock then torque to 140 ft lbs..
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 01:00 PM
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I DIY'd mine, passed on staking, loc-tite'd, and simply double nutted. (giggidy )
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 02:19 PM
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I picked up the 2012 Axle nuts at the dealer to compare. It has a washer that rotates. The service manager said they replace all the old ones with these now. I suspect locktite or double nutting is the same effect...
Part number 11611234





Last edited by tdishon; Oct 7, 2017 at 02:20 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2017 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by tdishon
I picked up the 2012 Axle nuts at the dealer to compare. It has a washer that rotates. The service manager said they replace all the old ones with these now. I suspect locktite or double nutting is the same effect...
Part number 11611234
I just replaced my axle nuts when I did the drag spindles and the new ones were like this, the originals were the other type in your picture and my passenger side axle nut was finger tight at best.

I went to double nut this one but it did nothing but start to crush the flange on the front so I'm just going to hope the rotating washer and red loctite do their jobs.

Last edited by sevinn; Oct 10, 2017 at 03:54 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2017 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sevinn
I'm just going to hope the rotating washer and red loctite do their jobs.
If the washer is staked would the red Loctite really be needed?
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Old Oct 10, 2017 | 06:21 PM
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I would not double nut the new style nut. The collar is weak so it can be staked. I was told not to use locktite as it is not needed if you stake it...
Don't be afraid to stake these nuts. They all need replaced whenever removed anyway. Cheap insurance.

Last edited by tdishon; Oct 10, 2017 at 06:23 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2017 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by John Harry
If the washer is staked would the red Loctite really be needed?
No, but to be perfectly honest I just treated it like the old nut. Now I see what should have been done and I will give it a whack next time I have the wheels off.
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Old Feb 17, 2021 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by John Harry
If the washer is staked would the red Loctite really be needed?
I realize this is an old thread, but I'm dealing with it now. Just wanted to say, you wouldn't stake the washer... it's up against the hub and rotates anyway, so staking it would accomplish nothing. You'd stake the outer flange of the nut - opposite the end with the washer - closest to the end of the axle.
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Old Feb 18, 2021 | 07:31 AM
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Interesting; my 2012 had the "old" style flange nut. My driver side was loose. I ordered and used the old style nut, loctite, and double nutted with the old nuts. It's been fine for 3 years now. I looked through tons of threads on the subject and never saw this one.
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Old Feb 19, 2021 | 08:31 PM
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Suspenders and belt. Loctite and use the old nut as a second. Of course, I did that and soon after broke a stud and probably made the job a bit more difficult.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Chatman
Suspenders and belt. Loctite and use the old nut as a second. Of course, I did that and soon after broke a stud and probably made the job a bit more difficult.
You can't double-nut the new nut for the 2012-up (p/n 11611234) because it has an extended flange that is fairly thin/soft (meant for staking to the axle) that will deform if you try to double-nut it. I suppose you could stake it and Locktite it though. I may do that.
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 11:18 PM
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Reviving this for those that need the part number for the rear axle nut...

GM Part Number 11611234

I have the old style on my 2012 - just ordered two new ones.
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