06 z06, Forced Induction, needed upgrades?
10-20-2017, 10:36 PM
#1
06 z06, Forced Induction, needed upgrades?
If i'm going to add a turbo or supercharger, to get the car to 600-700Hp range, what internal parts would need to be changed?
Would stock internals and other components function in this hp range?
Is there a general consensus on all the parts and what needs to be changed at what hp range? Eventually i'll want 800-900hp, but 600-700 for starters.
Pistons? Rods? Cam? Springs?
Transmission?
Driveshaft?
Would stock internals and other components function in this hp range?
Is there a general consensus on all the parts and what needs to be changed at what hp range? Eventually i'll want 800-900hp, but 600-700 for starters.
Pistons? Rods? Cam? Springs?
Transmission?
Driveshaft?
10-21-2017, 01:06 AM
#2
Team Owner
ZR1 would be a better platform and ultimately cheaper to obtain your long term goals.
10-21-2017, 07:32 AM
#3
Team Owner
Clutch, cooling, fuel system, pistons, argueably cylinder liners, etc etc etc. For long term reliabilty driveshaft, axles, rear end. Heads/cam/valve train needs to be done either way.
10-22-2017, 07:49 PM
#4
Drifting
If you just want 700whp, you can do a blower, cam, meth, and headers. If you plan to track the car, axles, clutch, etc, will need to be replaced.
Like Unreal said, heads need to be done either way. If your goal is >800whp, you’re looking at a forged bottom end and fuel system in addition to the above items.
Like Unreal said, heads need to be done either way. If your goal is >800whp, you’re looking at a forged bottom end and fuel system in addition to the above items.
10-22-2017, 11:05 PM
#5
If you just want 700whp, you can do a blower, cam, meth, and headers. If you plan to track the car, axles, clutch, etc, will need to be replaced.
Like Unreal said, heads need to be done either way. If your goal is >800whp, you’re looking at a forged bottom end and fuel system in addition to the above items.
Like Unreal said, heads need to be done either way. If your goal is >800whp, you’re looking at a forged bottom end and fuel system in addition to the above items.
10-23-2017, 01:54 AM
#6
Down side to the LS7 is the cylinder wall liners are very thin where they come together between each cylinder (read lack of support).
Hence you can only throw so much pressure at the liner before it want so crack.
As stated, the LS-9 motor, although has less displacement, has much more liners support (between the cylinder), and you can throw much more pressure at them before they crack isntead.
So in the end, you can make more HP safely with a LS-9, then you can with a LS-7 with supercharging.
As for the LS-7 in stock form, call it safe for repeatable hit after hit around 650hp with a meth kit in play. If you are just going to do say single hits for strip racing with cool downs, then maybe 700'ish, but not for road coarse type work where you are going to do repeat hits over and over for 45mins or longer at a time instead.
And as everyone has pointed out, you need to work with the drive line first for the added HP your going to be throwing at it, then once they are ready, do the motor last.
To add, instead of super charging the motor, might want to think about turning it into a Mercury Racing SB4 7.0 @ 775hp isntead.
http://www.thedrive.com/video/11943/...-green-machine
Hence you can only throw so much pressure at the liner before it want so crack.
As stated, the LS-9 motor, although has less displacement, has much more liners support (between the cylinder), and you can throw much more pressure at them before they crack isntead.
So in the end, you can make more HP safely with a LS-9, then you can with a LS-7 with supercharging.
As for the LS-7 in stock form, call it safe for repeatable hit after hit around 650hp with a meth kit in play. If you are just going to do say single hits for strip racing with cool downs, then maybe 700'ish, but not for road coarse type work where you are going to do repeat hits over and over for 45mins or longer at a time instead.
And as everyone has pointed out, you need to work with the drive line first for the added HP your going to be throwing at it, then once they are ready, do the motor last.
To add, instead of super charging the motor, might want to think about turning it into a Mercury Racing SB4 7.0 @ 775hp isntead.
http://www.thedrive.com/video/11943/...-green-machine
Last edited by Dano523; 10-23-2017 at 02:00 AM.
The following users liked this post:
nick14003 (10-25-2017)
10-23-2017, 04:57 AM
#7
Drifting
10-23-2017, 07:49 AM
#8
Team Owner
And good octane, and a great tune. Either way fuel system needs a decent overhaul.
10-23-2017, 06:42 PM
#9
Down side to the LS7 is the cylinder wall liners are very thin where they come together between each cylinder (read lack of support).
Hence you can only throw so much pressure at the liner before it want so crack.
As stated, the LS-9 motor, although has less displacement, has much more liners support (between the cylinder), and you can throw much more pressure at them before they crack isntead.
So in the end, you can make more HP safely with a LS-9, then you can with a LS-7 with supercharging.
As for the LS-7 in stock form, call it safe for repeatable hit after hit around 650hp with a meth kit in play. If you are just going to do say single hits for strip racing with cool downs, then maybe 700'ish, but not for road coarse type work where you are going to do repeat hits over and over for 45mins or longer at a time instead.
And as everyone has pointed out, you need to work with the drive line first for the added HP your going to be throwing at it, then once they are ready, do the motor last.
To add, instead of super charging the motor, might want to think about turning it into a Mercury Racing SB4 7.0 @ 775hp isntead.
http://www.thedrive.com/video/11943/...-green-machine
Hence you can only throw so much pressure at the liner before it want so crack.
As stated, the LS-9 motor, although has less displacement, has much more liners support (between the cylinder), and you can throw much more pressure at them before they crack isntead.
So in the end, you can make more HP safely with a LS-9, then you can with a LS-7 with supercharging.
As for the LS-7 in stock form, call it safe for repeatable hit after hit around 650hp with a meth kit in play. If you are just going to do say single hits for strip racing with cool downs, then maybe 700'ish, but not for road coarse type work where you are going to do repeat hits over and over for 45mins or longer at a time instead.
And as everyone has pointed out, you need to work with the drive line first for the added HP your going to be throwing at it, then once they are ready, do the motor last.
To add, instead of super charging the motor, might want to think about turning it into a Mercury Racing SB4 7.0 @ 775hp isntead.
http://www.thedrive.com/video/11943/...-green-machine
Lets say, cam, intake, headers, tune
valves, springs i'll probably do for peace of mind because of the valve drop issue..
What else would I need to change for 600-650 range?
push rods?
pistons?
fuel system?
I've never really added large amounts of horsepower to a stock car so being my first time I have no clue whats going to fail first
or if there is some guide or list of each part and their expected max power capacity
Last edited by nick14003; 10-23-2017 at 06:44 PM.
10-23-2017, 07:22 PM
#10
Take a good look at the below dyno chart, and keep in mind that this is a 427 engine that will rev to 7K.
At 5.6K, the engine goes flat since it can no longer breath correctly. So just solving this problem alone, you end up with a stock motor that will produce the 600'ish you are looking for (the hurdle here is still the room under the hood, that will limit that amount of air that a single TB design intake manifold can pull in.
Now lets take a look at the Mercury Racing SB4 7.0 that is built on the same 427 block and why it will produce 775HP (can breath to the 7.2K it revs at).
It really easy to understand why the same block, but with different head reaches this numbers and it all about the heads that allow it breath all the way to redline, including the dual TB intake design as well.
To really be blunt, what do you want out of the motor, what are you going to use it for.
Major torque off idle, that TVS-2300 range that will produce about 650hp on the stock motor safely long term.
What more HP on the stock motor that you can get with a TVS-2300, not so much the torque off idle, then something like a centrifugal super charger gets you there.
Want more HP in a N/A 427, then that is a breathing problem that can be resolve isntead.
Again, what are you going to use the car/motor for, since at some point, HP becomes a mute point if you can't use it/get it to the ground.
The easy way to put this, the T-1 C6 corvette produces it best lap times when the motor only produces about 600hp: even the hands of a tallented pro driver. Anymore HP than this, coming out of the corners on a hard drive becomes too pedal sensitive to keep the back end in check instead.
So to wrap it up, before you just go searching for armchair HP number that you may never end up using, figure out what you are going to use the car for, and then what would be best for that instead.
Truth is, in the hands of most Vet owners, even the 505HP that the motor puts out stock, is more that they can handle on a road course track. Hence too many will play the Grunt game with the motor in the next gear up to try to control the back end, instead of having the talent to come out of the apex at 3K where the motor is happiest instead. So for someone like this, there is not a single mod that the car needs, but instead road course driving lessons to learn how to drive and keep the stock car on the edge instead.
At 5.6K, the engine goes flat since it can no longer breath correctly. So just solving this problem alone, you end up with a stock motor that will produce the 600'ish you are looking for (the hurdle here is still the room under the hood, that will limit that amount of air that a single TB design intake manifold can pull in.
Now lets take a look at the Mercury Racing SB4 7.0 that is built on the same 427 block and why it will produce 775HP (can breath to the 7.2K it revs at).
It really easy to understand why the same block, but with different head reaches this numbers and it all about the heads that allow it breath all the way to redline, including the dual TB intake design as well.
To really be blunt, what do you want out of the motor, what are you going to use it for.
Major torque off idle, that TVS-2300 range that will produce about 650hp on the stock motor safely long term.
What more HP on the stock motor that you can get with a TVS-2300, not so much the torque off idle, then something like a centrifugal super charger gets you there.
Want more HP in a N/A 427, then that is a breathing problem that can be resolve isntead.
Again, what are you going to use the car/motor for, since at some point, HP becomes a mute point if you can't use it/get it to the ground.
The easy way to put this, the T-1 C6 corvette produces it best lap times when the motor only produces about 600hp: even the hands of a tallented pro driver. Anymore HP than this, coming out of the corners on a hard drive becomes too pedal sensitive to keep the back end in check instead.
So to wrap it up, before you just go searching for armchair HP number that you may never end up using, figure out what you are going to use the car for, and then what would be best for that instead.
Truth is, in the hands of most Vet owners, even the 505HP that the motor puts out stock, is more that they can handle on a road course track. Hence too many will play the Grunt game with the motor in the next gear up to try to control the back end, instead of having the talent to come out of the apex at 3K where the motor is happiest instead. So for someone like this, there is not a single mod that the car needs, but instead road course driving lessons to learn how to drive and keep the stock car on the edge instead.
10-24-2017, 06:12 PM
#11
Take a good look at the below dyno chart, and keep in mind that this is a 427 engine that will rev to 7K.
At 5.6K, the engine goes flat since it can no longer breath correctly. So just solving this problem alone, you end up with a stock motor that will produce the 600'ish you are looking for (the hurdle here is still the room under the hood, that will limit that amount of air that a single TB design intake manifold can pull in.
Now lets take a look at the Mercury Racing SB4 7.0 that is built on the same 427 block and why it will produce 775HP (can breath to the 7.2K it revs at).
It really easy to understand why the same block, but with different head reaches this numbers and it all about the heads that allow it breath all the way to redline, including the dual TB intake design as well.
To really be blunt, what do you want out of the motor, what are you going to use it for.
Major torque off idle, that TVS-2300 range that will produce about 650hp on the stock motor safely long term.
What more HP on the stock motor that you can get with a TVS-2300, not so much the torque off idle, then something like a centrifugal super charger gets you there.
Want more HP in a N/A 427, then that is a breathing problem that can be resolve isntead.
Again, what are you going to use the car/motor for, since at some point, HP becomes a mute point if you can't use it/get it to the ground.
The easy way to put this, the T-1 C6 corvette produces it best lap times when the motor only produces about 600hp: even the hands of a tallented pro driver. Anymore HP than this, coming out of the corners on a hard drive becomes too pedal sensitive to keep the back end in check instead.
So to wrap it up, before you just go searching for armchair HP number that you may never end up using, figure out what you are going to use the car for, and then what would be best for that instead.
Truth is, in the hands of most Vet owners, even the 505HP that the motor puts out stock, is more that they can handle on a road course track. Hence too many will play the Grunt game with the motor in the next gear up to try to control the back end, instead of having the talent to come out of the apex at 3K where the motor is happiest instead. So for someone like this, there is not a single mod that the car needs, but instead road course driving lessons to learn how to drive and keep the stock car on the edge instead.
At 5.6K, the engine goes flat since it can no longer breath correctly. So just solving this problem alone, you end up with a stock motor that will produce the 600'ish you are looking for (the hurdle here is still the room under the hood, that will limit that amount of air that a single TB design intake manifold can pull in.
Now lets take a look at the Mercury Racing SB4 7.0 that is built on the same 427 block and why it will produce 775HP (can breath to the 7.2K it revs at).
It really easy to understand why the same block, but with different head reaches this numbers and it all about the heads that allow it breath all the way to redline, including the dual TB intake design as well.
To really be blunt, what do you want out of the motor, what are you going to use it for.
Major torque off idle, that TVS-2300 range that will produce about 650hp on the stock motor safely long term.
What more HP on the stock motor that you can get with a TVS-2300, not so much the torque off idle, then something like a centrifugal super charger gets you there.
Want more HP in a N/A 427, then that is a breathing problem that can be resolve isntead.
Again, what are you going to use the car/motor for, since at some point, HP becomes a mute point if you can't use it/get it to the ground.
The easy way to put this, the T-1 C6 corvette produces it best lap times when the motor only produces about 600hp: even the hands of a tallented pro driver. Anymore HP than this, coming out of the corners on a hard drive becomes too pedal sensitive to keep the back end in check instead.
So to wrap it up, before you just go searching for armchair HP number that you may never end up using, figure out what you are going to use the car for, and then what would be best for that instead.
Truth is, in the hands of most Vet owners, even the 505HP that the motor puts out stock, is more that they can handle on a road course track. Hence too many will play the Grunt game with the motor in the next gear up to try to control the back end, instead of having the talent to come out of the apex at 3K where the motor is happiest instead. So for someone like this, there is not a single mod that the car needs, but instead road course driving lessons to learn how to drive and keep the stock car on the edge instead.
I'll get used to 505 pretty quick so I know i'm going to want more... trying to plan out a path. lol
10-25-2017, 09:52 AM
#12
Down side to the LS7 is the cylinder wall liners are very thin where they come together between each cylinder (read lack of support).
Hence you can only throw so much pressure at the liner before it want so crack.
As stated, the LS-9 motor, although has less displacement, has much more liners support (between the cylinder), and you can throw much more pressure at them before they crack isntead.
So in the end, you can make more HP safely with a LS-9, then you can with a LS-7 with supercharging.
As for the LS-7 in stock form, call it safe for repeatable hit after hit around 650hp with a meth kit in play. If you are just going to do say single hits for strip racing with cool downs, then maybe 700'ish, but not for road coarse type work where you are going to do repeat hits over and over for 45mins or longer at a time instead.
And as everyone has pointed out, you need to work with the drive line first for the added HP your going to be throwing at it, then once they are ready, do the motor last.
To add, instead of super charging the motor, might want to think about turning it into a Mercury Racing SB4 7.0 @ 775hp isntead.
http://www.thedrive.com/video/11943/...-green-machine
Hence you can only throw so much pressure at the liner before it want so crack.
As stated, the LS-9 motor, although has less displacement, has much more liners support (between the cylinder), and you can throw much more pressure at them before they crack isntead.
So in the end, you can make more HP safely with a LS-9, then you can with a LS-7 with supercharging.
As for the LS-7 in stock form, call it safe for repeatable hit after hit around 650hp with a meth kit in play. If you are just going to do say single hits for strip racing with cool downs, then maybe 700'ish, but not for road coarse type work where you are going to do repeat hits over and over for 45mins or longer at a time instead.
And as everyone has pointed out, you need to work with the drive line first for the added HP your going to be throwing at it, then once they are ready, do the motor last.
To add, instead of super charging the motor, might want to think about turning it into a Mercury Racing SB4 7.0 @ 775hp isntead.
http://www.thedrive.com/video/11943/...-green-machine
10-25-2017, 09:38 PM
#13
If just for drag strip type use, then you don't want a roots blower, but a centrifugal blower with meth kit instead.
This will have more power in the top end where you want it, the design allows for better pressurized air cooling over the water cooling to the pressurized air on the TVS-2300, plus it will be a lot cheaper than installing a TVS-2300 as well.
Your going to be limited on the amount of pressure you can throw at the stock LS-7 motor, but should be able to get you in the 700hp safely. Hence your not going to throw a ton of boost at the motor, but just enough that the motor will breath with some pressure all the way up to 7k for a steady climb to red line isntead.
This will have more power in the top end where you want it, the design allows for better pressurized air cooling over the water cooling to the pressurized air on the TVS-2300, plus it will be a lot cheaper than installing a TVS-2300 as well.
Your going to be limited on the amount of pressure you can throw at the stock LS-7 motor, but should be able to get you in the 700hp safely. Hence your not going to throw a ton of boost at the motor, but just enough that the motor will breath with some pressure all the way up to 7k for a steady climb to red line isntead.