The steering wheel sensor will not throw the wheel off center....but if the wheel is not straight, this would indicate to the control module that you are telling the car to turn but it is not responding.
Could be possible reason for fault indication, and perhaps why car applied brakes in a effort to make correction.
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No, it wont cause the the steering wheel to be off. Chances are it could have been removed for other things.

Turning off the AH using the button on the console wont help the issue if there is an actual issue. This problem started for me in 2010 after 4 years of ownership. It happens sporatically. It occurred more often when the car was a daily driver. Its happened when going 80+ on the highway -- never wrecked, just kept control. You need to get it looked at. Also do a search on the forums for Service Active Handling. But, in the end, if you get an error or message on the dash, get it looked at.

 

Is 280 bad?

 

only for a few miles

 

Hmm well it was suspicious to me that the wheel was off center, im assuming its just a matter of removing the steering wheel and straightening it out? Im trying to avoid paying the dealership an arm and a leg for a "diagnostic" lol but the scanners ive used only showed a front impact sensor code, no other codes related to the AH unless it required a special scanner. I guess you could say ive been trying to figure out the issue on my own without being so quick to drop it off at a dealership.

My first thoughts were that maybe the car had been wrecked, but ive inspected everything and havent found any damage, im thinking the previous owner removed the front bumper and either disregarded the sensor or damaged it however that does not explain the steering wheel being off center.

 

that would make sense, im pretty sure the AH light is related to the steering wheel..unless the alignment was thrown off by the PO dropping the car via the adjustment bolts..and maybe that triggered the light. How would the traction control and AH system be related? does one not function without the other? My traction light is stuck ON along with the AH light.

 

I was able to duplicate an active handling failure trigger event years ago by only making MAF table edits. I have moved on from the C6 so I do not recall the details, but it had to do with the lowest end of the scale. I bring this up in case you have modified your time. Something to look at, and should be an easy fix. When the system is working it is not your enemy, but it can pull you over if it gets confused, and that should not occur if all data is clean.

 

Hmm ill have to check with my tuner, the car is tuned for E-85 right now not sure on what all has been changed with the MAF table/timing. Thanks for the input ill ask him to look it over.

 

Lsxjohng,

Your really do need to spend some time learning about the car and AH.

there is a steering wheel sensor in the column, a Yaw/accelerometer sensor in the dash under the steering wheel, and the wheel hub speed sensors for all 4 tires that are in play here with the AH as inputs.

If you take the car to autozone to have them pull the codes for free, it will tell you what sensor is out of spec and causing the dash light.

In regards to doing a front alignment on the vet, if the alignment machine does not have such, then a Tech II is used to make sure that the steering wheel sensor has a "Zero" reading with the tires are set straight during the alignment.

If the working steer wheel sensor is not reading O when the wheel are straight, then adjustments are made in the turnbuckle arms to get the wheels to zero with the sensor, not the other way around. Hence you don't pull the steering wheel to index is a spine over, since this will end up with the steering wheel sensor not zeroed with the tires aiming straight ahead.

 

They share most of the same hardware. If, for example, your brake pedal position sensor goes out, both systems will be disabled.

You have to pull the codes from the EBCM. A $10 code reader won't do it. A Tech 2 will. Everything else is just guessing. The message on the DIC means "attach code reader." That is the next step.

 

The previous owner lowered the car, which required an alignment. Apparently, either the alignment wasn't done or done badly. You can't take the steering wheel off and move it a spline or two, since it's on a keyed shaft. Changing the toe on each side is the only way to correct the steering wheel. The OP never mentions how far it's off, but if it's less than 7*, it won't affect the steering position sensor anyway. He's had the car for 2+ months and the light came on about a month ago. Of course, driving around for a couple months without having a correct alignment is wrong in the first place.

Also, the OP hit the go pedal enough to get the tires to spin, which we know doesn't take much with a modded LS3, and the backend went to the right as it is the normal direction when you shock the tires and suspension. Since the car is new to him and he hasn't learned how everything works, he freaked out when AH kicked in to straighten out the car. He fails to understand that AH will apply one or more brakes to correct the direction of the car and it'll happen whether the light is on or off unless he manually overrides AH. There's obviously a problem someplace, because he says the AH light, which he fails to address, has been on for a month and now the TC light is also on. Neither of those lights would de-activate AH, since the system resets each ignition cycle and AH did kick in when he spun the back out of line. He's searching for solutions for the light, but disregards why AH worked the way it did, as if the light was the cause.

 

PM me if ou have more questions. I had issues and read a lot of it. Need way more BG info before we can diagnose...

IIRC, tire size, tire PSI, yaw sensor, steering angle sensor, and wheel rotation sensors can ALL set off AHS electronically.

My guess would be that:

1) your SAS is not zeroed (need a tech2)

2) dont just zero the sensor

IF the steering rack was reconnected funny & the SAS is correct, that means the cable reel in the airbag will not be centered. Ask previous owner when the steering wheel got crooked - after an alignment, after an accident, etc.

 

Such an angry post...Relax man im just trying to fix my car..Jesus Christ.. stop making his thread personal.. im actually trying to gather information to fix the issue i don't need you to continue to attack me on solving this. Thanks for the actual info you provided.

 

Im gonna reach out to the previous owner today, if its a simple alignment id rather pay for that,than a 100 dollar "diagnostic" from the dealership.

 

For a cop, you sure have a short fuse and a sharp tongue.

That post was a reply directed to Dano523, not you, who also happened to mention you need to learn about the car and AH. I was updating him on your problem and providing him with info on a couple of items about the steering wheel and AH sensors. Dano is a good guy and I've learned from him and shared stuff I've learned with him. None of us know it all, but we tend to learn from each other.

There is no reason why you needed to take issue with it. Just actually read what applies to your problem and disregard the rest. There's a lot to learn on this forum, but you won't get far treating moderators and people who help the way you have so far.

 

First off, the simple title of moderator or admin does not make him right. I dont care how much you back him on this, the fact is that i asked a simple question on how to shut off the AH system and your beloved moderator decided to comment with absolutely nothing of value.. I dont care if hes an admin or not, he should know that what he was posting would lead the response that he received from me.

Second, Dano does not need you to advise him of anything, he can read the thread himself. Really not even that, go ahead and inform him if you want, but leave out your judgemental attitude that is based on your personal opinion on how i handled the AH light..

Then you go and demand me to be courteous? im sorry but youre right, i have a strong sense of justice, and for a situation like this..moderator or not i am going to stand up for what is right, and in this situation nothing you say, and no blame that you put on me will take back the FACT that your admin hijacked my thread with his unnecessary remark...i guess hes used to doing things like that, because people like YOU will not think twice and bow to his "admin" status..

 

Let me get this straight: you've been on here 3 mos. and managed in one thread, yours, to P-0ff three of our more learned members. You're also willing to "throw parts" at the car, but not pay for, or get a free reading of the codes. (and the codes don't always tell you what to replace, but what system to follow to lead you to a true diagnosis). YOu also don't want to pay for a diagnosis because that's too expensive, don't really know your car, active handling, steering wheel controls/sensors, etc. You're willing to take a chance of losing control of your car in one of your more hi-po acceleration moves and think losing control will cost you less than actually finding someone and paying them to diagnose and fix the car. You're also going to go back to the prior owner and "ask them/him" if the car needs an alignment.

You've done well! I suggest you re-read hungryhippo's post and take it to heart. If you want to attack me, go ahead but this post is made to help you think it through and is from an objective source.

 

This is super easy. Disable the steering sensor. It is a simple plug under the dash. It wont do a dang thing to your rig.

Search my threads and you will find a DIY.

Good luck...hope that helps...kinda a shame a lot of these guys are not.

 

AH has saved my butt a couple of time while on tight roads. Kinda expected it so no biggie. The first time it was puzzling though.

Frankly I leave all the nannies on nowadays, as compared to when I first purchased the car.

Hell the biggest nannie now is the old man behind the w heel.

 

Ok guys, I think everyone got off on the wrong foot here.

First: Its understandable that John was upset - having a brand new (to you) car almost kill you will do that to you. Still, John - the mods and members here help out for free, so I think many of them took offense when it sounded like you insinuated that people "must help".

Anyway, ya'll need to calm down.



Okay now that I have a bit mroe time let me get into some more details on the sensor.


The sensor rides on the steering shaft right above the pedals. I've personally had the sensor break free of the mount and "hang" on the shaft. Every time I hit a bump, the sensor would "jolt" nd the AH would kick in. Nearly sent me into a curb too. Anyway, I suspect yours is NOT doing this. I believe your AHS is off by some degree due to alignment/repair and/or owner disconnected the steering linkage and reconnected it improperly. There are two places to reconnect the steering linkage - one, near the pedals will only go on one way, as it is a keyed shaft. This MIGHT be your problem but i highly doubt it. If it was, I would think your SAS would still be reading 0degrees and your cable reel would be broken.

What I beleive is your issue is someone messed with the lower part of the steering box, which has those friction type mounts and didnt properly center it when reconnecting the shaft. OR someone really messed up the alignment and only adjusted one side. In either case, if you have access to a tech 2 (or clone), I would hook that up, read the sensor position to find out if it is zeroed when the car is moving straight. If it is not, check if it is zeroed when the steering wheel is straight.

If its straight w. car moving straight, your issue is likely not the steering angle sensor and is going to be yaw sensor/tire speed sensors. If you have an OBD2 scanner, you can actually datalog the speeds of each individual tire with the right software... Do this if you can.

If its straight w. the steering wheel straight, someone screwed with your alignment or steering shaft connection. You could then put the steering wheel in a position where the car is driving straight, disconnect the steering linkage at the bottom, and straighten the steering wheel.

For now, disconnect the steering wheel sensor and it will deactivate active handling. Doing this wont allow you into the "race mode" however, and will also deactivate launch control/etc if you have it.