can someone please tell me if I installed the red wire on my boost a pump correctly...😕 on the a&a directions, i didn’t quite understand. I remember it saying something about a large grey wire. I split the wire on the male side of the plug and soldered fuse end to male side of the plug, and other side of bap to the end that was going away from the plug..

 

Lets make this simple.

you have to get a 30 amp/12 volt Single pull, single throw relay in play.

The power for the BAP has to come from either the battery positive cable, the main fuse box terminal on the engine fuse box, or you can use the alternator terminal on the back of the alternator under the rubber boot to pull your 12 volt power from there.

This 25 amp fuse thick gauge wire fused wire from the main 12v power source goes to the Relay on the NC side (30) from your power source point listed above, and off the NC side of the terminal on the relay (87) with large gauge wire as well, this will go to the red wire on the BAP. The black wire on the BAP will go to a good ground point on the frame.
Note, although you have a fuse link on the BAP right off it, you have to get a 25 amp fuse a few inches off from where you tapping into the main 12 volt source off the car. Hence if this main power wire grounds out between the 12 main source, and the fuse line on the BAP wire right off it, we need to have the fuse a couple inches off the main power source blow so it does not catch wire from the main source on fire. If you want to cut the fuse line off the BAP and move it to the connection point on the main source, that is fine, but the main power fuse line needs to be a few inches off the main 12v positive power source.
Also, on the wire gauge size, 12 gauge works most of the time, unless your lead to the main source wire is longer than say to the alternator terminal with the BAP mounted in the driver side fender, and may need to up size that lead wire isntead.

Your output wires to the fuel pump (the large gauge wire ones out of the BAP) have to go all the way back to the fuel pump connector just above the fuel tank on large gauge wire as well. Do not tap into the fuel pump OEM lines at the fuse box/hood area to try to carry the higher amperage current back to the fuel pump on lines out of the fuse box relay, since it will burn thinner gauge wires very quickly.

Now on the fuel pump line coming out of fuse box from the relay, that line taps into the coil side of the relay (85), and the other side of the relay coil side (84) will go to ground on the fame.

Hence you are only using the fuel pump relay in the fuse box to trigger the secondary relay (450ma), and the secondary relay is controlling and taking the high amp load from the 12v main source directly to send that to the BAP to begin with, and the high amp load from the BAP to the pump is run via thick gauge wire all the way to the Fuel pump at the fuel pump connector just above the fuel tank.

If you need a 30 amp 12 volt spst relay, you can get the Bosch one for under $10, or with a harness for about $10 instead,




Simply from your photo, it looks like your trying to pull powder for the BAP through the factory wires from the fuse box (going to burn both the oem wires and the fuse box relay up), and not sure, but would guess that your trying to use the factory OEM wires back to the fuel pump from the BAP to drive the fuel pump, and going to burn them up as well.

 

These are the instructions I followed

 

Again, the OEM wires are not large enough gauge to drive the Bap with a tie through the OEM harness. Also, this will pull more power (amps) through the OEM pump relay and engine fuse box, causing problem with them too.

This is why you use the relay to turn the BAP on and off, the BAP pulling it power directly from a main 12v source, and its only the fuse box relay that is controlling the 12 volt relay switch at a 450micro amp draw back to the OEM fuse box/relay.


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...mpartment.html


If you don't want to have to make a wiring harnesses, then you can just buy one that comes with the needed relay as well.
http://www.racetronix.com/RX-C5A-FPWH-2.html

or

https://www.lethalperformance.com/le...iABEgK36PD_BwE

Simply put, you can run it tied into the OEM wiring the way you have it, but when it burns up the OEM wiring harness all the way back to the fuse box, the fuel pump relay in the fuse box, and the extra heat causes the relay progs in the fuse box to heat up and spread apart, your not going to be happy when you are on the hook replacing all of such isntead (or instead, when the wiring harness catch on fire, and your not just writing off the car by the time the fire department gets the burning pile of ash that was your put out instead).