Oil changes for garage queens
#21
Race Director
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Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I'd guess that sort of testing has continued at the Yuma facility as the engines have evolved. IIRC, the wife's '08 Caddy STS (3.6 DI) had a recall about 2010 to revise the OLM, due to a camshaft oiling issue. At least that was the dealer's story.
#23
Safety Car
When the GM desert testing was still done in Mesa, AZ (until 2009) some of the data for the OLM included the time from a cold start to an unknown oil temperature as a factor to be used in the algorithm. I don't know the details, but it was recorded due to the high rate of wear that happens during that time period. It had no relationship to a calendar, since it was merely minutes.
I'd guess that sort of testing has continued at the Yuma facility as the engines have evolved. IIRC, the wife's '08 Caddy STS (3.6 DI) had a recall about 2010 to revise the OLM, due to a camshaft oiling issue. At least that was the dealer's story.
I'd guess that sort of testing has continued at the Yuma facility as the engines have evolved. IIRC, the wife's '08 Caddy STS (3.6 DI) had a recall about 2010 to revise the OLM, due to a camshaft oiling issue. At least that was the dealer's story.
Brake fluid should also be changed frequently, every 2 to 3 years is best.
#25
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2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
My 2011 GS is my 2nd car, so it gets only about 2,000 miles a year put on it. The car now has 17,000 miles since I purchased it new in 2011.
Since I live in south Florida, the car is not put up for winter. It's driven lightly year round.
I have been changing the Mobil 1 in the engine every year, but I really have 2nd thoughts about changing out full synthetic oil with only 2,000 miles on it.
Jeeze ... even straight 'dyno' oil we used in our late 60s muscle cars back in the day would go 3,000 miles between oil changes.
I am not believing that my 2,000 mile / 1-year old Mobil 1 oil is full of acids, and needs to be dumped at the end of only 1 year.
Yes ... I am still changing it at the 1-year mark, but the more I think about it, the more I think that this practice is a big waste of $$$.
Since I live in south Florida, the car is not put up for winter. It's driven lightly year round.
I have been changing the Mobil 1 in the engine every year, but I really have 2nd thoughts about changing out full synthetic oil with only 2,000 miles on it.
Jeeze ... even straight 'dyno' oil we used in our late 60s muscle cars back in the day would go 3,000 miles between oil changes.
I am not believing that my 2,000 mile / 1-year old Mobil 1 oil is full of acids, and needs to be dumped at the end of only 1 year.
Yes ... I am still changing it at the 1-year mark, but the more I think about it, the more I think that this practice is a big waste of $$$.
#26
Le Mans Master
Follow up from above:
My recollection is that if the oil monitor was set and one year has past.
The computer has the dash screen indicate "oil change due".
I did not look in the serv. manual to confirm my memory.
The synthetic oil one or two year change time is a debate.
I think with syths and keep in a garage with mild year round weather, two year life is reasonable, yet just an opinion not fact.
Only a Blackstone Lab analysis can answer the time line question for sure as environments make each sample different.
Merry Christmas.
My recollection is that if the oil monitor was set and one year has past.
The computer has the dash screen indicate "oil change due".
I did not look in the serv. manual to confirm my memory.
The synthetic oil one or two year change time is a debate.
I think with syths and keep in a garage with mild year round weather, two year life is reasonable, yet just an opinion not fact.
Only a Blackstone Lab analysis can answer the time line question for sure as environments make each sample different.
Merry Christmas.
#28
Safety Car
I am not believing that my 2,000 mile / 1-year old Mobil 1 oil is full of acids, and needs to be dumped at the end of only 1 year.
Yes ... I am still changing it at the 1-year mark, but the more I think about it, the more I think that this practice is a big waste of $$$.
Yes ... I am still changing it at the 1-year mark, but the more I think about it, the more I think that this practice is a big waste of $$$.
There is a "margin of safety" built into the recommendations. You'll never harm the engine following the once a year schedule. If you go longer, you'll be getting closer to the real limit. Most people think there's at least a factor of 2 margin of safety. I'll agree that a margin of safety is likely, but I wouldn't assume to know what that margin is without actual documentation (which isn't published) or empirical testing on my specific situation. You might consider investing in a couple of oil analysis kits. Wix 24078 is available at local parts stores and on Amazon. Blackstone labs ( https://www.blackstone-labs.com/ ) also offers test kits online. It's $28 for the analysis, but they'll send you the "kit" for free. You pay when you send the sample in.
You'll need either a mighty-Vac pump or some way of siphoning oil up the dipstick tube, or you'll need a valve installed at the drain plug to draw samples. I prefer using my mighty-Vac to draw it up the dipstick tube. Seems cleaner with less chance of contamination from dirt around the plug/valve area. Watch the pH for sure. I don't remember the specific elements that show for the pH balancers in the oil analysis reports. Perhaps someone on here can say for sure.