C6 Temp contoller
01-03-2018, 01:32 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
C6 Temp contoller
I have a base 2006 C6 Convertible with a manual transmission. I have replaced my HVAC head unit because it turned off and on sporadically. A well known issue. I procured another on but wanted to ask the forum is there anyone who fixes these units? If so please send me the info so I can send my old one in incase the replacement fails. Winter is here and when its 7 degrees out, I don't want the unit to crap out. Thanks
01-03-2018, 01:53 PM
#2
Race Car Tech
I have a base 2006 C6 Convertible with a manual transmission. I have replaced my HVAC head unit because it turned off and on sporadically. A well known issue. I procured another on but wanted to ask the forum is there anyone who fixes these units? If so please send me the info so I can send my old one in incase the replacement fails. Winter is here and when its 7 degrees out, I don't want the unit to crap out. Thanks
If you have access to a low-wattage, pencil-style soldering iron and rosin-core solder, take the unit apart and go over the joints that look dullish in color.
Any electronics repair can probably do that as well.
Good Luck
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Jumper11 (01-03-2018)
01-03-2018, 05:59 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Most often, a cold solder joint on the board is the culprit of why they start to fail.
If you have access to a low-wattage, pencil-style soldering iron and rosin-core solder, take the unit apart and go over the joints that look dullish in color.
Any electronics repair can probably do that as well.
Good Luck
If you have access to a low-wattage, pencil-style soldering iron and rosin-core solder, take the unit apart and go over the joints that look dullish in color.
Any electronics repair can probably do that as well.
Good Luck
01-03-2018, 06:22 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Thanks, I had a C5 and fixed the dimming issue buy re-soldering the chips on the board. The C6 is not a dimming problem, it shuts off with no display at all. If it comes apart like the C5 one than I got no issues. The forum provided good instructions and pictures for the C5 and was hoping someone else has tried to repair the C6 controller. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks
I did the write up on resoldering the C5 HVAC unit.
the C6 unit comes apart in the same way.
I just replaced the bulbs in my C6 HVAC control.
01-04-2018, 12:47 PM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
01-04-2018, 06:55 PM
#6
The temp dial pots are dual purpose, being that when you turn it from side to side, it sets the temp, while if you push the button downward, it will turn the system on and off on that side instead.
Note, if the entire controller is tuning off, and not just one side, suspect a cold solder joint on the board.
Now on the pots (potentiometer), they are funky design, since they use a small rubber cup like that on a key board pad as there return springs on the very bottom of the assembly.
like the part top right, but only much smaller instead.
Over time the rubber spring piece will start to fall apart, and this will allow the button to press inwards on it own to kill the system side, and some cases, even allow the dial to slightly turn to change the temp setting under hard acceleration as well.
The pots can be pulled apart to rebuild them (replace the rubber return spring) if you have the talent and extra rubber cups, while if you don't have jeweler type talent to pulls something this small apart, but just soldering skills instead, them the pots can be replaced on the board isntead.
Note, same thing happens on the radios as well, since it uses the same pots as well. Mousers sells replacement pots, and will need to dig up the replacement part number since I have it someone on my laptop file away for safe keeping(the Ac/delco pot is numbered 15452 on it).
And don't feel bad, since I need to pull my controller to check for a cold solder joint on the ambient light voltage circuit, since it's acting up.
Hence HVAC controller unit sends out 5v to the ambient light sensor up on the dash, and depending the voltage coming back from the dash sensor, whats you to turn the the head lights on.
Right now, I getting intermediate problems when I turn the DRLs off, and in less then bright light and colder conditions (the colder the key point here), getting a DYI message to turn the head lights on, meaning that I have a cold solder joint in the system on the board that is causing an intermediate reduced volt in the circuit itself on the board when it colder, and before the inside of the car warms up to warm up the controller (dash sensor if fine).
So with your entire system shutting off and off, bank that that cold solder joints will be easy to spot, once you have the board in hand.
Last edited by Dano523; 01-04-2018 at 07:00 PM.
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S.C. vette (01-06-2018)
01-05-2018, 11:37 AM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Yes, either the problem is a cold solder joint on the board, or is the dial pot that has the problem instead.
The temp dial pots are dual purpose, being that when you turn it from side to side, it sets the temp, while if you push the button downward, it will turn the system on and off on that side instead.
Note, if the entire controller is tuning off, and not just one side, suspect a cold solder joint on the board.
Now on the pots (potentiometer), they are funky design, since they use a small rubber cup like that on a key board pad as there return springs on the very bottom of the assembly.
like the part top right, but only much smaller instead.
Over time the rubber spring piece will start to fall apart, and this will allow the button to press inwards on it own to kill the system side, and some cases, even allow the dial to slightly turn to change the temp setting under hard acceleration as well.
The pots can be pulled apart to rebuild them (replace the rubber return spring) if you have the talent and extra rubber cups, while if you don't have jeweler type talent to pulls something this small apart, but just soldering skills instead, them the pots can be replaced on the board isntead.
Note, same thing happens on the radios as well, since it uses the same pots as well. Mousers sells replacement pots, and will need to dig up the replacement part number since I have it someone on my laptop file away for safe keeping(the Ac/delco pot is numbered 15452 on it).
And don't feel bad, since I need to pull my controller to check for a cold solder joint on the ambient light voltage circuit, since it's acting up.
Hence HVAC controller unit sends out 5v to the ambient light sensor up on the dash, and depending the voltage coming back from the dash sensor, whats you to turn the the head lights on.
Right now, I getting intermediate problems when I turn the DRLs off, and in less then bright light and colder conditions (the colder the key point here), getting a DYI message to turn the head lights on, meaning that I have a cold solder joint in the system on the board that is causing an intermediate reduced volt in the circuit itself on the board when it colder, and before the inside of the car warms up to warm up the controller (dash sensor if fine).
So with your entire system shutting off and off, bank that that cold solder joints will be easy to spot, once you have the board in hand.
The temp dial pots are dual purpose, being that when you turn it from side to side, it sets the temp, while if you push the button downward, it will turn the system on and off on that side instead.
Note, if the entire controller is tuning off, and not just one side, suspect a cold solder joint on the board.
Now on the pots (potentiometer), they are funky design, since they use a small rubber cup like that on a key board pad as there return springs on the very bottom of the assembly.
like the part top right, but only much smaller instead.
Over time the rubber spring piece will start to fall apart, and this will allow the button to press inwards on it own to kill the system side, and some cases, even allow the dial to slightly turn to change the temp setting under hard acceleration as well.
The pots can be pulled apart to rebuild them (replace the rubber return spring) if you have the talent and extra rubber cups, while if you don't have jeweler type talent to pulls something this small apart, but just soldering skills instead, them the pots can be replaced on the board isntead.
Note, same thing happens on the radios as well, since it uses the same pots as well. Mousers sells replacement pots, and will need to dig up the replacement part number since I have it someone on my laptop file away for safe keeping(the Ac/delco pot is numbered 15452 on it).
And don't feel bad, since I need to pull my controller to check for a cold solder joint on the ambient light voltage circuit, since it's acting up.
Hence HVAC controller unit sends out 5v to the ambient light sensor up on the dash, and depending the voltage coming back from the dash sensor, whats you to turn the the head lights on.
Right now, I getting intermediate problems when I turn the DRLs off, and in less then bright light and colder conditions (the colder the key point here), getting a DYI message to turn the head lights on, meaning that I have a cold solder joint in the system on the board that is causing an intermediate reduced volt in the circuit itself on the board when it colder, and before the inside of the car warms up to warm up the controller (dash sensor if fine).
So with your entire system shutting off and off, bank that that cold solder joints will be easy to spot, once you have the board in hand.
01-06-2018, 04:05 AM
#8
No worries,and was planning on pulling my controller to take some photos as I re-solded it to day for you, but spent the afternoon/evening pissing away at trying to get a nano scanner (mdi clone) to load its software correctly on my win 10 64 bit laptops which is still turning into a huge failure (loads fine on my older/slower win 7 32 bit lap top without problems though).
