I'm new to the corvette scene but navigating my way thru some of the pitfalls and trying to learn. I have a set of BB long tube headers and hi-flow cats that just arrived. I'm looking for a little advice from those people that deal in C6's. I'm by trade a mechanc, did it for 30 years on diesel equipment, but todays automobiles are a new breed. Im confused on the LTH and Hi-flow cats. Confusing is the fact that the manufacture says they can be installed in about 4 hours, yet all my quotes to have them installed are 8 and 10 hrs shop time? I might tackle them myself, and save the 800-1000 for more modifications. Can someone tell me how high I would need to go up to get them in? I have a 2012 GS with dry sump. Also anyone have advice on if I need to wrap any lines, or protect the starter. The paperwork with the headers says (an they supply) to insult the clutch line. Nothing else. The system came with all the accessories and extensions for the O2 sensors. I have a lifetime program update from my speed shop, so I know afterwards that isn't going to be an issue. Anyone with advice? Thank you for all your help.

 

Yah, call the clutch line a jerk.

First time it will take 5-6 hours. Have to drain oil so take that into account. After that, takes 3-4 hours to put them on/off, but first time takes a bit.

 

Sorry I meant he said to insulate the clutch line...lol

 

Just use common sense with brake lines/clutch/etc. If it is close, move it or insulate it.

As for height, I did my first 5-6 sets with normal floor jack and stands. No issues. Don't need that much clearance.

 

Hi hope yall are having a good day. I just installed my first set a few months ago. In the middle of a cam swap at the moment. I to called around and got pricess from 500 to 1000 for labor. I also that was kinda high. It took me about 5 hours to complete the job. It was honestly pertty easy. I came from a 2013 Mustang gt and those headers were a real pain to install. I think they charge you for the Vette tax sometimes. But yes in my kit also came a piece of insualition to put on the clutch line.

 

My tuner charges $300 to install headers

 

Just did 1 7/8 Kooks on a GS with dry sump last weekend. I'm sure fitment between Kooks and B&B are probably a little different. There were 2 of us, never done a header install on a C6 before.

1) I bought some really good insulation and steel ties for clutch lines, spark plug wires and O2 extension wires; didn't need any of it. Went ahead and put it on but there was plenty of clearance for all of it. There was one small wire off the starter that was close to the inner primary, we used a metal tie to tuck away. That wire was already foil wrapped from the factory and we could have probably just loosened the connection and tucked it away but it's secured now. Those little details took awhile as we really took our time to make 110% positive nothing was going to touch or melt.

2) I think book time was quoted at either 4 or 5 hours. Had the old system out, oil drained and ready to install the headers in about 3 hours. Actual install on the system probably took an hour and a half not counting the time spent on the fine details. We did this on a Quickjack which I think with low blocks is around 19 inches off the ground.

3) One hick-up for me was a froze/welded rear O2, the threads came clean off had to buy a new one. I had debated buying new front and rear O2s just in case (had this problem when doing 2 different F-bodies) and return them if I didn't need them but didn't. Luckily I found 1 in stock locally.

4) Instructions said leave everything loose until aligned, and you want to follow that exactly. We thought we could go ahead and torque the header bolts and the ball joint at the collectors would fall in or be close... nope, nada. Had to leave the header bolts loose, ~1/4-1/2 inch out, line up the ball joints and tighten the flanges to seal up, then torqued the header bolts which sucked everything into alignment. On the back side once the axle back was right we tightened it up. Just take you time as a little movement in one place makes a huge difference in another.

5) You will need to disconnect the oil lines to the dry sump tank to slide the passenger header in. So basically you'll need supplies for an oil change.

6) My friend had a 3/8 tite-reach, it's a chain drive extension. That thing is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to easily reaching and removing spark plugs and header bolts. It doesn't do well with impact drivers, the chain absorbs the impact torque; but you can get plenty of torque with a 3/8 ratchet to break the rusty, stock manifold bolts loose when you have plenty of room to turn.

7) The extra wire from the rear O2 extensions can be tucked on top of the tunnel plate, a clamp to secure them should be easy (I need to do this). Honestly you tuner is probably going to have to turn off the rear O2 codes anyway so the sensors are just plugging holes in the X pipe anyway.

8) My headers came with locking bolts, I've got everything torqued down and no leaks. I'll run a few more heat cycles on them this week; check for leaks, alignment and torque again Friday and install the locks then.

 

From NW iL, called a local shop and they told me 10 to 12 hours @ 125 per hour. I thought .

Making me want to do these in my garage, still shopping cause I don’t have heat but I’m getting the heads done and need to have these on before the shop gets them.

 

Four 3 ton jack stand all the way up and you'll have a very clear view I do all the work myself (nobody better not touch my car) why pay nobody to have all the fun.

 

Thanks for all the good insights. I think I will give it a try and save the 1K toward more HP somewhere down the line. I have already had the mid-pipe and mufflers out when I went back to the NPP system, so I know that part will slip off. Being in Florida, their is nothing rusted to speak about, so I'm thinking the biggest issue will be getting it lifted.
Has anyone ever purchased and used one of these? saw it at a local shop and it looked kind of slick. I know it eats up the money I was planning on saving, but it would make any future jacking the car up a breeze. it is the Quick jack by Ranger. goes down to 3" when collapsed and 19 when raised. Anyone have personal experience with the unit?
https://www.quickjack.com/car-lift-s...-car-lift.html

 

Installing long tubes is not difficult at all, as mentioned, just take your time. You will learn more about your car and be glad you did after you finish the job and start your car for the first time with the headers in place!

I too do this using jack stands, I use my heavy duties up front and raise the entire car far enough off the ground that allows me to slide underneath with ease.

Spray the threads on your 02 sensors as soon as you can so they can soak some before you attempt to break them free, I rarely have issues with them and use a good tight fitting wrench working them back and forth.

Watch YouTube videos and read a how to on here before starting and your confidence will elevate plus you will have a game plan before you start the project.

 

I paid a local shop $1200 to install the longtubes on my C5. I felt so sick about paying that much that it deterred me from adding longtubes to my C6 for over a year. I finally did my kooks on rhino ramps in my garage. Just took my time working over a 4 day period. When all done, I had my exhaust guy straighten my corsa tips for $20.

 

Quick jacks are great. I have a quick jack and a maxjax. Quickjack is great for tire swaps, oil changes, quick stuff. Max Jax for larger jobs like clutch/motor/etc.

 

There goes you thousand dollars again

These floor jack takes care of my home floor jack needs.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ump-62310.html

 

Thanks xboostx, kurt, unreal, ALL...

If I go the route to install headers/xpipe in my garage after i get a reputable shop to do my heads and tune, is it smart to have a different shop tune the car not to flash codes afterwards? I’m not sure if i need to re-tune everything or is it simply flipping flags on the computer saying, no more this or that? Sorry this is my first rodeo with a car build, just don’t want dish more than I have to.

Thanks!

 

First for your tune to have maximum effect you need everything figured in; heads, headers, etc. Second, each different tuner will have to license your vin and that runs around $100, so sticking with the same turner may save a little.

You'll probably want to do the headers first since you can simply have that shop disable the rear O2 trouble codes and everything will be OK, that takes just a few minutes; OR you can just live with the check engine light on for a little while. They then can do the real tune after the head work.

 

Good to hear, thank you


[

QUOTE=Kurt D;1596347562]First for your tune to have maximum effect you need everything figured in; heads, headers, etc. Second, each different tuner will have to license your vin and that runs around $100, so sticking with the same turner may save a little.

You'll probably want to do the headers first since you can simply have that shop disable the rear O2 trouble codes and everything will be OK, that takes just a few minutes; OR you can just live with the check engine light on for a little while. They then can do the real tune after the head work.[/QUOTE]

 

305-303-1388 KT tuning David he is in your area and be rite there every time you need something he is the man no one else touch my car I vouch for this man.

https://kustomtuning.wordpress.com/k...-1/#comment-55

 

My first header install took about 5 hours, an hour of that was insulating clutch line, starter solenoid and o2 sensors wires. Jacking the car up was another 35 minutes.
My preferred method of lifting the car is by using 2X10's, 5 high. I have plenty of room under car and is solid on all 4 corners. Work your way around the car placing 2 at a time, on the second pass adjust any that get out of line and again on final pass.

 

thanks for the pic and info