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Old Jan 10, 2018 | 10:08 AM
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Default TPMS Issues

Good morning,
I've searched a bit, but haven't found discussion of the issue I'm having. I replaced the wheels/tires on my '12 Grand Sport 2 weeks after purchasing the car. I purchased a set of C7 Z06 replica wheels with Continental Extreme Contact Sport tires, & new TPMS mounted, balanced & shipped to my door. The wheels are 19x10 front & 20x12 rear with 285/30/19 & 335/25/20 respectively. I also purchased a TPMS reset tool off Ebay to program the TPMS to the car. I noticed shortly after install that I received a service TPMS monitor message, checked the DIC and it showed the right front tire XX. I went through the TPMS reset procedure again, and all seemed fine until I drove the car about 15-20 miles and the right front would read XX. Contacted DocZ from whom I purchased the set & they sent out a new TPMS.

Was also getting very strong steering wheel vibration at highway speeds to I took it in to Discount Tire had the fronts Road Force Balanced, and they told me the right front tire was out of spec and they couldn't get it to balance. They also replaced the right front TPMS with the new one DocZ sent out. Continental agreed to replace the tire that is out of balance so while waiting for the new tire to arrive (today) I drove the car yesterday about 400 miles. After about 20-25 miles the TPMS warning light came on indicating the right front reading of XX, but then about 1/2 way into the trip the front left tire also showed XX. The car sat for about 4 hours during my meeting & when I started it up, all TPMS read fine. Then about the same distance into the trip, first the front right & then the front left stopped reading for the remainder of the drive home. Car sat over night and this morning they read normal. Any ideas?

I'm heading to Discount Tire now to get the new front right tire put on, and don't know if there is anything the can/should do with the TPMS? Thanks!
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Old Jan 10, 2018 | 10:15 AM
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XX means the battery is weak in the sensor.
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Old Jan 10, 2018 | 12:53 PM
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There are a couple possible problems, but need some questions answered.
When you say things like "all seemed fine","shortly after install","all TPMS read fine", what was the time between activities? What were the DIC pressure readings? Did you check if the DIC numbers matched the pressure with a hand gauge? How did you identify the reset procedure worked? You only mention the front wheels, so what readings do you get from the rears? Where did you store the old wheels?

Your 15-20 mile statement indicates there was no info transmitted, because it takes 18 minutes to set a DTC. Prior to that, the system fed the DIC it's last known info, which could/probably have been from your OEM sensors in the old wheels. Every time you shut the car off the system resets, including the 18 minute time.

You might need to search the DTC history to see the codes that were set.
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Old Jan 10, 2018 | 01:09 PM
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Fronts were reading 31 on both tires while the rears were reading 32. Both matches up to my hand held gauge . The right front displayed Xx after about 20 mi, maybe more. The left front displayed Xx after about 100 miles or so. Car sat for about 4 hours & at start up displayed 32 for both fronts. After about 30 min into my drive home the light came on & the front right displayed Xx then again about 100 miles or so the left front displayed XX. Rears haven’t changed. This morning the fronts are both reading 30. Just got back from Discount Tire with a new front tire installed, both fronts re-balanced & they said the TPMS checked out fine so I don’t know.
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Old Jan 10, 2018 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JABCAT
Fronts were reading 31 on both tires while the rears were reading 32. Both matches up to my hand held gauge . The right front displayed Xx after about 20 mi, maybe more. The left front displayed Xx after about 100 miles or so. Car sat for about 4 hours & at start up displayed 32 for both fronts. After about 30 min into my drive home the light came on & the front right displayed Xx then again about 100 miles or so the left front displayed XX. Rears haven’t changed. This morning the fronts are both reading 30. Just got back from Discount Tire with a new front tire installed, both fronts re-balanced & they said the TPMS checked out fine so I don’t know.
Apparently the sensors aren't responding to the mother ship.
So you didn't say where the original tires/wheels with the OEM
sensors are stored. If they're anywhere near (like 30-50 ft) the car can pick up the signal from them. Go reduce the pressure in them to 25 and see what the cars reads in the morning.
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Old Jan 10, 2018 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Apparently the sensors aren't responding to the mother ship.
So you didn't say where the original tires/wheels with the OEM
sensors are stored. If they're anywhere near (like 30-50 ft) the car can pick up the signal from them. Go reduce the pressure in them to 25 and see what the cars reads in the morning.
I don't have the original wheels/tires/tpms so no interference there. I'll mess around with the pressures and see what happens.
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Old Jan 25, 2018 | 10:17 PM
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Service TPMS message again today. First trip today 220 miles, exactly 36 miles into the trip the warning light went on & the left rear tire was displaying XX. This is new as the previous XX was on the left front tire. On the entire 220 mile drive only the left rear displayed XX. Car sat for 2 hours while I was in a meeting & then I drove 220 miles home. Exactly 36 miles into that drive, the Service TPMS message came on again and this time the front right was displaying XX. About 80 miles into the drive all except the front left was displaying XX for the remainder of the drive home.

I find it hard to believe the issue is with all 4 brand new sensors? Any other thoughts?

Last edited by JABCAT; Jan 25, 2018 at 10:18 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 02:33 PM
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I am having a similar issue with the TPMS in my 2011 Base C6 Corvette. I had both rear TPMS reading XX about 30 minutes away from the house. DIC reads Service Tire Monitor and I loose Active Handling. Reset them with the tool and they read pressure again. Drive 30 minutes and the same thing happens Rear TPMS XX. I replaced both rear TPMS's and reet them with the tool. They read the pressure again. Then 30 minutes from the house New Rear TPMS both reading XX again and DIC reads Service Tire Monitor again. Also I lost Active Handling. My rear TPMS's are in a piece of PVC Pipe because I run M/T Drag Radials with 19 PSI. Does this happen because my Rear TPMS Sensors are not spinning in the wheel?
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 7SECONDS
I am having a similar issue with the TPMS in my 2011 Base C6 Corvette. I had both rear TPMS reading XX about 30 minutes away from the house. DIC reads Service Tire Monitor and I loose Active Handling. Reset them with the tool and they read pressure again. Drive 30 minutes and the same thing happens Rear TPMS XX. I replaced both rear TPMS's and reet them with the tool. They read the pressure again. Then 30 minutes from the house New Rear TPMS both reading XX again and DIC reads Service Tire Monitor again. Also I lost Active Handling. My rear TPMS's are in a piece of PVC Pipe because I run M/T Drag Radials with 19 PSI. Does this happen because my Rear TPMS Sensors are not spinning in the wheel?
I'm going to guess that you never had the sensors in the wheels to initialize them. True or not?
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
I'm going to guess that you never had the sensors in the wheels to initialize them. True or not?
That is True with the Newly Installed Rear TPMS. The previiud ones where the originals so they were in the wheels from 2011 thru 2014.

Last edited by 7SECONDS; Jan 28, 2018 at 12:31 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 7SECONDS
That is True withthe Newly Installed Rear TPMS. The previiud ones where the originals so they were in the wheels from 2011 thru 2014.
In order to preserve the battery life, they don't get initially activated until they get spun at something like 20 mph for X period of time. It's like the centrifugal force moves a switch to connect the battery. I don't remember the details, but usually when new ones are installed, the spin balancer is enough to activate it.

The DIC may be reporting the last known pressure for the 30 minutes, which was with the old sensors. To confirm, drop the pressure in the canister to 20 psi. If the DIC still reads 30, you'll know it's not reading those sensors.
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
In order to preserve the battery life, they don't get initially activated until they get spun at something like 20 mph for X period of time. It's like the centrifugal force moves a switch to connect the battery. I don't remember the details, but usually when new ones are installed, the spin balancer is enough to activate it.

The DIC may be reporting the last known pressure for the 30 minutes, which was with the old sensors. To confirm, drop the pressure in the canister to 20 psi. If the DIC still reads 30, you'll know it's not reading those sensors.
I did change the pressure after they were programmed and confirmed the psi change. I will try spinning the sensors in my lathe that the car is parked next to and see if that makes a difference. Should work just like the car or balancer.

My conspiracy theory is that they pair up and read when programmed but once the car starts moving 30 minutes into the trip. The TPMS is pinged but is now in sleep mode because it is not spinning in the wheel to keep it on. If this is the case then the PVC is not ever going to work. Only a 30 minute fix.
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 7SECONDS
I did change the pressure after they were programmed and confirmed the psi change. I will try spinning the sensors in my lathe that the car is parked next to and see if that makes a difference. Should work just like the car or balancer.

My conspiracy theory is that they pair up and read when programmed but once the car starts moving 30 minutes into the trip. The TPMS is pinged but is now in sleep mode because it is not spinning in the wheel to keep it on. If this is the case then the PVC is not ever going to work. Only a 30 minute fix.
I don't think your theory holds water.my sensors have never been in a wheel and have been in the tube for almost 3 seasons.start a car that has had sensors in wheel that has sat for months with no movement and sensors will read as soon as you start the car.sensors in a tube will do the same.they read as soon as you start the car.let us know if anything changes when you spin in your lathe

Last edited by irok; Jan 28, 2018 at 07:54 AM.
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by irok
I don't think your theory holds water.my sensors have never been in a wheel and have been in the tube for almost 3 seasons.start a car that has had sensors in wheel that has sat for months with no movement and sensors will read as soon as you start the car.sensors in a tube will do the same.they read as soon as you start the car.let us know if anything changes when you spin in your lathe
Ok, so why don't the new sensors read after 30 minutes? What is your theory? What year is your C6? I am just trying to find answers to this on going C6 problem to help everyone. Every time you search a Thread on TPMS, Active Handling or ABS it seems to run into people arguing back and forth with no solution. I am here to find a solution. Once that happens I will most definitely post it to help others.

So everyone throw in your 2 Pennies and we will figure this 2011 Base Model Out.
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 7SECONDS
Ok, so why don't the new sensors read after 30 minutes? What is your theory? What year is your C6? I am just trying to find answers to this on going C6 problem to help everyone. Every time you search a Thread on TPMS, Active Handling or ABS it seems to run into people arguing back and forth with no solution. I am here to find a solution. Once that happens I will most definitely post it to help others.

So everyone throw in your 2 Pennies and we will figure this 2011 Base Model Out.
mine is an 05.don't know why your's don't read but mine do.have you tried different locations in car for placement of tube?where in car do you have tube?just went out in garage and put car in accessory mode and sensors read fine.car has not moved in 7 weeks

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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 09:11 AM
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I had issue's a few years back with cloned sensors in different sets of wheels.I was using 3 different sets of wheels at that time and my garage's were too close to each other for storage of wheels.the dominate factory sensors seemed to confuse the clones if they were to close to each other.once I drove away from area they would reset on their own and issue would disappear.do you have any other wheel sets with sensors that are stored near car?

Last edited by irok; Jan 28, 2018 at 09:12 AM.
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 09:28 AM
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I have no other wheels bedidr the car with TPMS in them. I do have the 2 old sensors and 2 more new sensors in a cabinet next to the car. The new sensors are not Clones. They are AC Delco 20925924 which is the GM OEM replacement. O am moving the old and new unused sensors way away from the car. I will then re program the ones in the PVC and try again.

Could my rear tire diameter cause this? Mickey Thompson ET Street SS 305/35 R19 @ 27.8 Diameter.

Note: The spinning in the lathe didn't change anything.
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 7SECONDS
I have no other wheels bedidr the car with TPMS in them. I do have the 2 old sensors and 2 more new sensors in a cabinet next to the car. The new sensors are not Clones. They are AC Delco 20925924 which is the GM OEM replacement. O am moving the old and new unused sensors way away from the car. I will then re program the ones in the PVC and try again.

Could my rear tire diameter cause this? Mickey Thompson ET Street SS 305/35 R19 @ 27.8 Diameter.

Note: The spinning in the lathe didn't change anything.
I run 305/35x19,285/35x19,295/45x17 and 305/45x17 and stock size fronts with no issues with any of them.all with OEM sensors.so you do have other programmed sensors stored near car.don't know if battery strength in other sensors could cause your issue but as I said earlier with the cloned sensors years ago when they were near each other caused issues in mine until car was driven away

Last edited by irok; Jan 28, 2018 at 11:45 AM.
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by irok
I run 305/35x19,285/35x19,295/45x17 and 305/45x17 and stock size fronts with no issues with any of them.all with OEM sensors.so you do have other programmed sensors stored near car.don't know if battery strength in other sensors could cause your issue but as I said earlier with the cloned sensors years ago when they were near each other caused issues in mine until car was driven away
I copied the quote below off another Thread and if it is right the PVC Pipe Work Around for Drag Radials will Not Work. Sensors in the PVC pipe will be in Sleep Mode when they get pinged by the computer therefore Reading XX.

The sensor has a radio transmitter in it that sends the pressure and that sensor's unique ID# to the TPMS computer in the car on a 315 MHz signal. (The sensors in 2010+ Vettes also send the temperature).

The TPMS computer (actually part of the RCDLR module) has a receiver that picks up the transmission from the sensor, and as explained in a previous post, the BCM and PCM process the data and send the pressure to the DIC.

The TPMS knows which pressure is coming from which corner of the car because it knows which sensor ID# is located on each corner.

As mentioned in earlier posts, when the car sits still for more than 15 minutes the sensors go into a battery saving mode and only transmit once very 60 minutes.

When you start driving over 20 mph the sensors wake up and transmit once every 60 seconds.

There are 2 pieces of sensor data that are stored in the TPMS memory:
The sensor ID#, so the TPMS knows which transmission correlates to which corner of the car (transmissions from sensors on other Vettes are disregarded because the TPMS only recognizes transmissions from the 4 sensor ID#s that are stored in its memory)

The last pressure transmitted by the sensors, so that when you start the car you'll have a pressure displayed until you back out the driveway and then drive down the street and get over 20 mph so the current pressure will be transmitted to the TPMS.

The sensor ID#s are in a non-volatile memory, and they will be remembered even when the battery is disconnected.

The last known pressures are in a volatile section of the TPMS memory, and when the battery is disconnected the last known pressures will be lost. When you start the car you'll have 0 psi displayed until you drive faster than 20 mph to wake up the sensors where they will transmit once every minute, so after a battery disconnect (or dead battery) you'll have to drive faster than 20 mph for a minute or two to get the current pressures transmitted to the TPMS and displayed in the DIC. The TPMS still has the sensor ID#s (it didn't lose those when the battery was disconnected) so no relearn procedure is required.

A TPMS tool transmits a 125 KHz signal. That signal triggers the sensor (forces it to send out its data), and when a "relearn" procedure (sensor info is programmed into the TPMS) is performed, the current pressures will immediately be displayed in the DIC - no need to drive the car to see the current tire pressures.

Bob

Last edited by 7SECONDS; Jan 28, 2018 at 12:35 PM.
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