When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Check where the alternator and battery cables come together on the starter. hence when you where installing the new battery, may have jiggle the wires enough to make a good initial contact to start with, then went down hill after the first start.
Note, the ground wire off the battery negative terminal is just above it bolted to the engine block as you see in the photo, so check to make sure that, that bolt is tight as well. and if you look close, will see that the termial has cracked of in the photo.
The problem may be either a loose connection/nut loose, or the terminal starting crack off like in the above photo.
If you do need an starter solenoid (don't need to replace the entire starter),
Check where the alternator and battery cables come together on the starter. hence when you where installing the new battery, may have jiggle the wires enough to make a good initial contact to start with, then went down hill after the first start.
Note, the ground wire off the battery negative terminal is just above it bolted to the engine block as you see in the photo, so check to make sure that, that bolt is tight as well. and if you look close, will see that the termial has cracked of in the photo.
The problem may be either a loose connection/nut loose, or the terminal starting crack off like in the above photo.
If you do need an starter solenoid (don't need to replace the entire starter),
Hooked scanner up, won't connect now, everytime i touch the break i hear clicking like a relay maybe in center of dash or maybe passenger floor i cannot tell.. being the only person here.
That is normal. I do not hear anything zapping in the video.
I'm going to keep everyone updated, I will check out the starter. It is currently snowing in PA and I do not have a garage so going to have to wait for more information I appreciate the help everyone I really do. But boy does that starter look like a pain in the *** to get to lol.
As for the scanner not connecting, hold the starter button down in the ACC postion for about 5 seconds, and this should put the car into run mode with the motor not started. This should power up at least the BCM so you can read it. Hence with the starter having problems such as a loose or cracked connection that will not allow the car to start, the other cable on the battery goes to the Engine fuse box that goes to the BCM, so the car should be able to be put in run-motor off mode to start with.
Now if the scan tool can still not find the BCM, you need to check the big 20 amp fuse center of the fuses on the BCM on the BCM to make sure is not blown. The fact that the starter button is trying to start the car, tells me that the fuse should be still good since you getting comunition through the GM land bus to start with.
Hence in run, motor off mode, then should at least power up the BCM since it the first device off the OBDII port, and will give you an idea of there is problem in the GM land bus down line as well.
Note, helps to have a tech II since you can check the other modules down line to try to figure out if there a break in the loop at one of the other modules father down line.
Hence if the TCM just ***** the bed, then your not going to get any communication with the TCM, or the ECBM and ECM farther down line. Hence BCM is sending the signal on the gm land bus to start the car, but if the TCM went south and the GM land bus loop is broken at the TCM, the signal is not going to reach the ECM at end of line to actual start the car instead.
I'm going to keep everyone updated, I will check out the starter. It is currently snowing in PA and I do not have a garage so going to have to wait for more information I appreciate the help everyone I really do. But boy does that starter look like a pain in the *** to get to lol.
I feel your pain I have been having random starting, rough idle, weird jerky throttle issues with mine. I have been chasing my tail on it seemed like. I'm pretty experienced in diagnosing and working on cars, and the electronics on my c6 were driving me up a wall. I couldn't find any connector, harness, fuse, relay, codes, even watching live data and recording sets of data to review to try and see if I was getting weird feedback or odd readings from sensors. I couldn't find anything, I broke down and just took it to the dealer as I needed to get the low beam harness recall fix done. They just told me today that it is a faulty ecm, still haven't figured out how I want to proceed yet. But when mine would have the no start or weird start issues it was almost identical to what you described my thread is on here with video of one of the times when mine started weird.
You guys are awesome, I have so much information now to have a place to start. As soon as we get that 60 degree weather again I'll be back at it and I'll make sure to let everyone know what the problem was!
We havent had any good weather for me to work on the car; just had freezing rain yesterday, But I did however replace the 20 AMP fuse for the GM LAN/CRANK. Car will now turn over; so that fixes that problem. but now I have a reduced engine power light and it's telling me code P1682 - Something with ignition. Was not there before. So after sitting down in defeat once again. I remembered I had pulled the relays that being one of them to test the coils. Face palm... Put it in fired right up... letting her warm up before i take her out to see if problem is fixed.
Also I do notice my wheel sensors that tell me my tire pressure is not working? only one of them are working now.. any reason why?
Last edited by Derek Adams; 02-05-2018 at 11:10 AM.
Just went for a decent drive; No check engine light, car is running fine.
So far knock on wood.
I think if you drive the car for a while, after a few start and run cycles the computers will all reset themselves and hopefully, the codes will quit showing up. These cars do weird things right after you disconnect the battery for anything.
I hope you're fixed now.
I think if you drive the car for a while, after a few start and run cycles the computers will all reset themselves and hopefully, the codes will quit showing up. These cars do weird things right after you disconnect the battery for anything.
I hope you're fixed now.
All codes are off now.. I gotta drive to city so we'll see if they come back. Plugged in my scanner aswell and none are pending.
Really happy to hear things are looking up and potentially fixed! Nicer weather will thankfully be here sooner than later, now your ready to go out and enjoy your car when it does!
Welp drove car ALL DAY yesterday... When I got close to home Active Handling and traction control light, than my brake light/abs light came on once again... no check engine light this time... turned car off, turned back on... all gone... go to take it out today... check engine light is back with everything else... ughhhhhhhh
Go to an a auto parts store, and have them pull the stored codes for free.
With the codes, will tell you right where the problem is/ where to start looking.
P0700 - Clutch Switch Circuit Malfunction
P150C - Transmission Control Module Engine Speed request circuit
P2544 - Transmission Torque Request Circuit
U0073 - Control Module Communication BUS A Off
-
The old U0101 is now gone which was Lost communication with TCM.. I just have those 4 now.
01-29-2018, 09:45 PM
