Does anyone know if the KR setting on dashlogic monitors burst or actual timing retard? I've done 4 logs on my car with HPT scanner and it show no knock retard, but similar run (in same conditions) my dashlogic shows knock retard.

 

Just plain KR

 

Apologies for bumping something from 2018, but it’s quite possible I’m having this issue too with a stock C6 ZR1, but I don’t have any HPT data to verify. Dashlogic shows me KR at WOT and it’s almost exactly the same amount in the same conditions. And other times it vanishes completely. It has made me sick and put the car up for sale.

The timing PID never changes when this occurs, just shows timing it wants. I’ve seen 26, 28, 22, doesn’t matter, it’ll say I’m getting 1-6 degrees of KR depending on the mood it’s in. Now I’m getting this nonsense even with half throttle. I believe I made it worse sticking in 93 octane after running 94 for so long. And running an Attack Blue filter without a tune. I reverted everything back to factory and reset the ECU by pulling the negative terminal for a few hours.

I can do a pull in 3rd, say it pulls 3-4 degrees to the redline. As soon as I hit 4th, 0.0 KR. But if I let off in 4th and get back on it, KR! What the heck?

Has ANYBODY compared the data from the two back to back? It’s starting to look like Dashlogic shows a lot of false data. There’s multiple knock PIDs, KR, total KR, burst KR, traction KR, and of course torque management can cause it.

@mirage2991 did you ever figure this out? Did you use Dashlogic and HPT back to back?

 

nope, but i trust hpt over dash logic.

 

HPT has multiple knock PIDs apparently. None of them matched Dashlogic? I see anywhere from 1-6.5 degrees of KR. Or 0. I can do a 3-4 pull and when I hit 4th the KR goes to 0 but if I left off and get on it again, it comes back.

I also get it at half throttle now too. But that might be because I went back to 93 after running 94 for so long. I also saw 1.1 KR once taking off from a dead stop.

I do not have HPT and not in a position currently to acquire it due to other circumstances.

I just contacted Auto Meter. They have no idea how this product works, can’t tell me what PID it’s pulling from, only that it’s pulling from the car. Basically this device is useless except IAT2. I remember reading somebody else who said HPTuners told them something different but I can’t find the post.

 

Nobody?

Even after a supposed reset and putting the factory filter back, I lose 6 degrees right away at WOT. Now at least I can use some boost in 6th if I need it. But forget WOT in any gear. It sits around 5.5-6.7 and wanders in that range.

I’m just ready to give up and move on. Auto Meter has no clue. Palmer won’t answer me. I assume it needs a tune, nobody responds. ECS is super close but they don’t seem like they want the business.

 

There are a ton of things that can cause your issue, for example last week we have a ZR1 in here that had a faulty intercooler pump. The car did exactly what you are describing.

 

Hi Doug!

I watch my temps religiously. It’s so frustrating. I sent you guys HPTuners logs of a ZR1 in Germany doing the same thing with good temps. The stock tune seems to be really picky.

It doesn’t seem to be temperature related though in my case. I absolutely sent it to 190 mph when I had a highway to myself. 72-190, 30 seconds.

Anyhow for my run, started in 4th, start of the run IAT1 68 IAT2 84. 30 seconds of WOT exactly. IAT1 68 IAT2 127 at the end. Less than a mile later IAT2 was down to 93. It was taking out a couple degrees of timing in 4th and then stopped in 5th and 6th.

Any suggestions at this point are welcome. I’ve seen at least two accounts of Dashlogic showing false data. I’ve run out of any sort of diagnosing I can do here. I have no idea what to look for. I have bricks and an isolator already.

It seems to dial up the KR at exactly 4000 rpm in lower gears. Sometimes 3000 in higher. It seems it is slightly better after some miles, but my enjoyment of this car is basically gone. I’m afraid of it breaking.

I’m filling it with Sunoco 94 again as the Jon Bon Jovi service area Sunoco reopened. Never had any issues with their gas. Going back to 93 made zero difference.

I would love for you guys to tune this thing with the Attack Blue filter and 94 octane but provisions for 93. Who knows if Sunoco will keep it around. I only take this car to NJ and PA where 94 is plentiful.

 

Any boost any gear, KR. WOT and slip and you’re in the 7.5 degree range. Tip into ANY boost, and you’re getting 3-4 up to 6. This isn’t drivable. It doesn’t feel right to me. Basically you can’t use anything more than 25% throttle. So I’ll be throwing in the towel and perhaps giving it to Carvana and cutting my losses. This’ll be my last post.

93 or 94 made no difference, battery disconnects, you name it. Temps are great, 68/82 tops IATs. That’s it for me. Thanks for everything I guess for those that don’t have me on an ignore list at this point.

Reached out to multiple shops, no response.

 

Here's a long HPTuners log. Lots of pulls, lots of knock. Long story short, Dashlogic is showing correct information, and is showing the Knock Retard PID that HPTuners sees. The Knock Retard PID takes the highest individual cylinder KR PID and reports that. As expected temps aren’t the problem. I suspect the problem is the IAT spark adder. It’s weirdly aggressive in the exact area that IAT2 is when this occurs, and out of the area in the summer.

I'm being told to "deal with it, its a stock tune" no I won't. Knock is bad. This is power being lost. I had a car that did this audibly loud and throwing everything at it didn't fix it (Fiat 500 Abarth).