Got uid0

Yellow top battery

Symptoms would be a failed start followed by a successful start and now wont start at all.

Parasitic amp draw shows .60 amps

Charged the battery checked voltage with multi meter showing 12.6 volts immediately attempted a start.

Pressed the brake pedal and hear a relay click like i always do, attempt to start and just get a click from the starter.

Checked battery voltage and reads 10.x volts

What is your diagnoses?

bad starter and open circuit?

xBoostx

Have the battery checked, the Optimas like to be recharged in parallel every now and then to replenished here's how will be like new again...

Recovery Option #2: The DIY solution for charging a deeply discharged battery.

This is a recovery method for the do-it-yourselfer using the equipment you've got in the garage. With this option, you're going to trick your traditional charger into charging the deeply discharged AGM battery.

Here's what you need:

Battery charger (under 15 amps)
Jumper cables
A good battery, preferably above 12.2 volts. (It can be an AGM or flooded battery- it doesn't matter.)
The seemingly dead, deeply discharged AGM battery
A voltage meter
A watch or timer

Now, here's what you do:

Hook up the good battery and deeply discharged AGM battery in parallel – positive to positive and negative to negative. Do not have the charger connected to the battery or turned on at this stage.

Now, hook up the good battery to the charger. Turn on the charger. The charger will "see" the voltage of the good battery (hooked up in parallel), and start providing a charge.

After the batteries have been hooked up for about an hour, check to see if the AGM battery is slightly warm or hot to the touch. Batteries naturally become warm during charging, but excessive heat may be an indication that there really is something wrong with the battery. Discontinue charging immediately if the battery is hot to the touch. Also discontinue the process if you hear the battery "gassing" — a hissing sound coming from the safety valves. If it's hot or gassing, STOP CHARGING IMMEDIATELY!

With your voltage meter, check back often to see if the AGM battery has charged to 10.5 volts or above. This generally takes less than two hours with a 10-amp charger. If it has, disconnect the charger from the wall outlet and remove the good battery from the charger. Now, connect only the deeply discharged AGM battery to the charger. Turn on the charger and continue until the AGM battery reaches a full charge, or until the automatic charger completes the charge process. In most cases, the AGM battery will be recovered.

I hope this helps you and others as Optimas will wake up from internal triggers.

timd38

Good info above, but the battery needs to be at much lower voltage to need that procedure. I retired at the end of 2013 and managed the OPTIMA sales team, so I still have ties back there.

Not sure of your location, but if live near me, I have several battery and electrical system testers that you we can use to see if we can find the issue.

RogerRamjet21

.60 amps very high, normal draw after all computers shut down is around .025 (25 milliamps).
10.x points to a bad cell (each cell is 2 volts, 6 cells x 2 = 12 volt battery).
I'd remove the battery and have it tested.

timd38

Actually a fully charged battery is 12.7V and 12.0V, it is only 50% charged per Battery Council International. I would still check the battery.

RogerRamjet21

Yes, but he said 10.x which could be 10.7, or 2 volts down shortly after a full charge, still points to a bad cell IMO.
I just went through this on my 08 and sure enough it was a bad cell. Before figuring it out, I took the car to two different places (Autozone and Batteries plus) and both said the charging system and battery tested good. However, my car would not start after a week, then 48 hours, then 24 hours and always read about 9.5 volts. After charging to 12.3 (all it would take) and disconnecting it for 24 hours, it again read 9.5. Replaced battery, all good.

Got uid0

Thank you to all who took the time for ideas.

Turns out it was a bad cell and barely used 3 year old battery.

Guess they do not make them like they use to once the plant moved to mexico.

Now i still have to track down the drain. M2W flaps were open loud so i should rule those out right?

RogerRamjet21

Glad you got it sorted! For the .6 amp issue, make sure when you put your meter in line with the battery that you let all the computers shut down and of course all doors and hatch closed. If you have a hood light, take the bulb out. Mine took about 40 seconds before dropping from 1.6 amps to .025 amps, but others have said theirs took longer. Make sure you haven't accidentally hit the map light switch on the left of the steering wheel. If you do this test inside a darkened garage, it's easier to verify no lights are on.

One item mentioned a lot is to pull the OnStar fuse.
The typical parasitic drain range I've seen quoted for our cars is 0 to .035 amps, so .60 amps is VERY high.
If not the OnStar fuse then pull the radio fuse next.
After that, keep pulling fuses until you find it (frustrating I know).

Racer1735

Glad you got your problem sorted out. I'll add my 5 cents worth....I have an Optima red top. 2 years old. Voltmeter shows 12.5 volts, but on occasion, the DIC would show less than 12 (which means no crank!). The battery lives on a battery tender but every so often the car would simply refuse to crank. Pulled the battery to be tested and of course it was fine. Reinstalled battery and car starts. Some time later its back to no crank, low volts, etc. Finally, I realized that my negative cable would pivot fairly easily on the terminal (although the clamp nut was securely fastened). Turns out the clamp had worn away a groove on the soft lead of the battery terminal. I purchased a terminal sleeve (which was too thick to fit under the clamp), trimmed it down to about half size, and fastened things up again. That's all it took to get the voltage back where its supposed to be, and all for about $2.75.

Got uid0

After replacing the bad yellow top i started the parasitic draw test.

Amp draw is .58
Car came with after market radio/amp and mild 2 wild switch, onstar was removed and fuse has always been removed.

I pulled the fuses on both of those first and tested every fuse under the hood. The only fuses that showed a lower amp draw when pulled where the battery fuses.

Tested interior and found the cluster/hud fuse when removed dropped to .35 amps. Removed HVAC/PWR SND fuse as well and dropped to .30

Where do i go from here?

Got uid0

ttt

xBoostx

Bring the battery to the front those long cables cause charge drop I have mines at front a little bitty one not a problem but not all of them work, Duralast P# ETX20L I never have any trouble with it it only weights 14 lbs if you could find room at front.

https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneo...uestid=4085392

Got uid0

battery is under the hood