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Radiator removal?

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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 04:50 PM
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Default Radiator removal?

I've about had it with this... trying to get the radiator separated from the condenser for close to an hour. The issue is, every time I lift the condenser almost enough to come off of the hooks, the lower A/C line hits the radiator tank. It's like it needs 1/8" more clearance to come apart.

I know others have pulled the radiator without disconnecting the A/C, but how? Is mine just out of tolerance or something? I'm not object to draining the A/C but thanks to some "friends" who borrowed my vacuum pump I'm not entirely sure it's still working so I would prefer to keep it in tact.

Also... whoever designed the radiator shroud at GM needs to have their AutoCAD license revoked...

Last edited by Pete2k_Z28; Apr 29, 2018 at 04:51 PM.
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 08:11 PM
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I wish I could remember exactly how I did it but I will say don't be afraid to bust out some sort of cutting utensil to assist. Several guys have just cut that one clip off with no reported it with facts but I was able to do it without cutting it. I do remember bending the radiator line a little bit and using a blade to cut a little additional clearance. Definitely another example of a design by someone who does not wrench.
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Old Apr 29, 2018 | 10:47 PM
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Thanks Fjryfry, I've very much considered that, sounds like I'm not the only one! I'm still at a bit of a loss how this picks up enough room to pull a cam though... the condenser is hard plumbed so not much flexibility to move it out of the way.
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 12:08 PM
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I'll dig up a pic of how I managed to wrangle the condenser up over the front shroud.

But i decided to do a clutch at the same time and pulled the motor. So I can't speak to how much room there is or isn't if you do it in situ.
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 02:24 PM
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What you'll find is that the shroud that covers the condenser is a lot more flexible than what you'd think so don't be afraid to push and pull on it.

Work out the driver's side of the radiator first and then the passenger side. Also be aware that there are a couple Christmas tree fasteners on the passenger side that make the condenser hard to wiggle.

It will come out...




...and new and bigger will go in



I'm assuming you have the fans out? If not, those need to come out before the radiator.

If you have someone that can help, a second set of hands is beneficial. I did mine by myself but if there had been someone else working the passenger side while I was busy pushing and pulling it would have been easier.
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 06:57 PM
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Thanks all!!! I went for it and just pulled the condenser earlier. Debated on a Dewitts while it was out but I've spent enough on this car in the past few months....
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 06:59 PM
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96GS#007, did you do fans too or just the dual core? If no fans, did you still see an improvement on the street?
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 08:37 PM
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If you can swing it, the Dewitt's would be a very worthwhile investment
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Old May 1, 2018 | 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Pete2k_Z28
96GS#007, did you do fans too or just the dual core? If no fans, did you still see an improvement on the street?
I just did the radiator since I’m trying to cool things on the road course. Last summer at Street of Willow in June/July/August I was seeing 230-250* coolant temps. Of course the air temps were 90*-110*! It’ll be around 90* next weekend at Auto Club Speedway so that’ll be my first stress test.

I can say that in stop and go traffic on a route I drive nearly every day, temps average ~10* cooler than with the stock radiator. It also clearly takes much longer when I’m dead stopped in traffic for the coolant temps to reach ~215*. On the freeway, it runs mid 180s vs low/mid 190s. In all cases (stock radiator and Dewitts) this is with a 160* t-stat

Last edited by 96GS#007; May 1, 2018 at 01:14 AM.
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Old May 5, 2018 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
I just did the radiator since I’m trying to cool things on the road course. Last summer at Street of Willow in June/July/August I was seeing 230-250* coolant temps. Of course the air temps were 90*-110*! It’ll be around 90* next weekend at Auto Club Speedway so that’ll be my first stress test.

I can say that in stop and go traffic on a route I drive nearly every day, temps average ~10* cooler than with the stock radiator. It also clearly takes much longer when I’m dead stopped in traffic for the coolant temps to reach ~215*. On the freeway, it runs mid 180s vs low/mid 190s. In all cases (stock radiator and Dewitts) this is with a 160* t-stat
Thanks! That's exactly the kind of data I was looking for! My project just got sidetracked for another week due to a defective trunnion so I may just pick up a radiator since it's not going back together tomorrow as I had hoped
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Old May 5, 2018 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete2k_Z28
Thanks! That's exactly the kind of data I was looking for! My project just got sidetracked for another week due to a defective trunnion so I may just pick up a radiator since it's not going back together tomorrow as I had hoped
Just to add to it....

Today I was at Auto Club Speedway in Fontana, CA. The track is a “Roval”, using part of the NASCAR oval and the infield road course. Lots of 3rd gear on the infield, 150mph on the straight entering Turn 1. Outside air temp was 99*. Highest coolant temp I saw was 219*. I’ll be at Willow Springs in a couple weeks, but after hammering away all day at ACS, I’m pretty happy with the radiator.
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Old May 7, 2018 | 02:42 PM
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Finally had a chance to look at my data file. Temps would climb into the low 220s but then immediately cool down.

Here's 250* at Streets of Willow





and at ACS....


~100* outside air temp both days. Note the laps when I grabbed the screen shots....4 at Streets, 8 at ACS. In addition, Streets is ~1:30-1:35 per lap while ACS is 1:53-1:58 per lap. Traffic, temps, etc all play into lap times.

Last edited by 96GS#007; May 7, 2018 at 02:44 PM.
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