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I had a tune sent to me via email for my programmer and originally I was running the fast 102 but decided to stay with the stock ls2. The tuner said the tune would still work.
Here is my issue.
I did the initial start up and started perfectly. The car idled while I was working on coolant and drove around the block. Everything sounded great and ran good for what I was doing. The car did not get over 200 degrees had perfect oil pressure. When I turned the car off it sputtered and shook then turned off. Now when I go to try to restart the car I can only start the car but giving it a little gas. Then it will idle ok. The car does smell like its running rich. Any ideas on what to check for? I am waiting on the response from my tuner. I emailed him pretty late tonight.
When all connectors and plugs are rite those hick ups are not there check all connections carefully look inside for bend connectors throttle body mass air flow check cam sensor must be tight check all grounds are connected & tight.
I'm actually having the same exact issue with a howards ASA cam, the tune I have is from the 525hp ls3 crate motor that my buddy has in his trophy truck. But he doesn't have any issues with his idle. If the engine is warmed i have to give it a little gas at idle and eventually it settles down and idles fine. Let me know if you come up with anything or if the tuner figures it out, I have hptuners.
After a quick google it looks like adding more airflow in the starting airflow table should work. It's probably in your tune. I'm going to change mine after work and I will report my findings.
I talked to my tuner, and he had me send him a data log and explain to him what is happening. I don't really know what I'm looking at. Hopefully we can get it resolved I took my time building the car and its been a few weeks, and now I heard it fire I really want to drive lol..
I also took my time with all of the plugs and wires, so I wouldn't miss any. I labeled each wire while I was disassembling.
The tuner said he looked at the data log and it was running stead 14.3 afr, but I only sent data at idle and said was fine. He said everything else checked out. He also stated to put some car on the miles and the car might relearn. I did think about it more and I did clean out my TB and moved the blade quite a bit, so I am wondering if it needs to relearn the TB position?
He also stated after I put some miles on it, if I need to we can add some fuel to startups.
The tuner said he looked at the data log and it was running stead 14.3 afr, but I only sent data at idle and said was fine. He said everything else checked out. He also stated to put some car on the miles and the car might relearn. I did think about it more and I did clean out my TB and moved the blade quite a bit, so I am wondering if it needs to relearn the TB position?
He also stated after I put some miles on it, if I need to we can add some fuel to startups.
It's possible that the TB needs to be learned, but hard warm starts are extremely common after cam swaps.
I'll say this though (as someone who tunes cars), he won't like hearing "the forum told me that you need to do this," so if you trust this tuner just listen to what they say, it may be best otherwise contact someone else who may be able to help you.
Emailing me tunes. I use SCT x4 and being emailed the tunes. He has been nothing but helpful even though he is on his family vacation. I feel bad for bothering him almost everyday, but this is my first cam swap I did and wanted to make sure it wasn't something I was doing wrong.
I also wouldn't go to him and tell him the forum said to do this honestly. Every tuner does their own thing their way. He has been doing it a long time and the short conversations I have had with him have been very helpful.
Getting the start/idle right on a cammed car isn't a super easy process, and I imagine it would be a nightmare to do remotely. If I had to guess, your tuner probably needs to play with the VVE tables in the idle areas to get the AFR close (your car won't be in closed loop after starting because the O2 sensors need to warm up before they work), then the cranking airflow can be adjusted to get the starts reliable. From there the spark and idle air tables can be tweaked to make the transitions better and get your idle vacuum where it needs to be. The end goal is a smooth idle at as close to stock RPM/vac as possible, but this requires a LOT of tuning. That's why I started tuning my car myself.
Honestly this is why so many cammed cars end up with a very choppy 1000 RPM idle instead of a smooth 600 RPM idle.
I appreciate everybody input. This forum as been very helpful. He is working on it for me. I would love to start tuning myself but I only know the basics..