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DeWitts 17" brushless fan does not use the ECM for its reference. It uses it's own sensor that is installed in the upper radiator hose. No problem. Everything works as advertised.
But, the sensor is programmed to turn the fans on at 195* and off at 175*. so, at normal operating temp ( 180-ish), the fan is running constantly.
My question is, does anyone know of a replace sensor that is (1) adjustable, or (2) comes on at 215* and off at 190* or thereabout, so when I'm running down the road, the fan isn't on ??
I've contacted DeWitts, but no response to my email yet.
Niether of those will work, as he has a nuova fan, with the controller built in.
You maybe able to find a different sensor, but not sure. I've had zero issues with mine and if you go up higher, the car may not cool. The fan isn't on/off, it is ramped. Doesn't kick on high until 220+. If you shifted that up, then it won't kick on high until 240+, which would already be in scary area.
As for getting more control on the unit, PWM controller, driving the fan in ramp up settings isntead.
In my other post, listed a couple of Pwm's, which could be using in place of the OEM PWM, using the ECM with OEM Temp sensor in the block instead. This would give you control of the fan setting via the ECM tune tables, as well as ramping up the Fan as needed, instead of the fan just being a full on, or full off only .
As for getting more control on the unit, PWM controller, driving the fan in ramp up settings isntead.
In my other post, listed a couple of Pwm's, which could be using in place of the OEM PWM, using the ECM with OEM Temp sensor in the block instead. This would give you control of the fan setting via the ECM tune tables, as well as ramping up the Fan as needed, instead of the fan just being a full on, or full off only .
Thanks for the info. I contacted Spal Tech and they said they have a temp switch that comes on at 195* and is at full thrust at 215*. I called DeWitts and they graciously agreed to swap my switch for no charge.
Thanks again and hats off to John at DeWitts.
Niether of those will work, as he has a nuova fan, with the controller built in.
You maybe able to find a different sensor, but not sure. I've had zero issues with mine and if you go up higher, the car may not cool. The fan isn't on/off, it is ramped. Doesn't kick on high until 220+. If you shifted that up, then it won't kick on high until 240+, which would already be in scary area.
You are correct. But, the temp switch that came with my fan originally comes on at 175* and is at full thrust at 195*, which means if my car runs in the 180* to 190*, the fan operates continuously. They have a switch that comes on at 195* and is ramped full at 215*. I think that is a better match for me and hopefully the fans will be dormant most of the time.
As for getting more control on the unit, PWM controller, driving the fan in ramp up settings isntead.
In my other post, listed a couple of Pwm's, which could be using in place of the OEM PWM, using the ECM with OEM Temp sensor in the block instead. This would give you control of the fan setting via the ECM tune tables, as well as ramping up the Fan as needed, instead of the fan just being a full on, or full off only .
His spal setup, and mine since it is the same, does not use the factory controller. It is built in to the fan. Those controllers would do nothing for it. The ECM and stock PWN isn't used at all.
Son of a .......
As posted earlier, after clearing the code the fuel gauge came back to life and was working normally. Yesterday, after driving approx 50 miles since the re-set, the same thing occurred. Fuel gauge pegged to zero and the CEL on.
You also need to turn off the computer part on the fan in the car because you do not have the factory controller box hooked up to it. The Dewitts unit is a self contained one so you use everything they give you. On mine I actually put the brushless fan in the stock housing (just cut it out) and I kept my factory controller box and connected the green wire to it so the computer thinks something is there.
Last edited by double06; May 25, 2018 at 07:57 AM.
Reason: Installed photos
The reason your car runs the 180-190 is because the fan is on. All you are doing is just making the car hotter by going to the higher temp switch. Once you are at a stop light and no air is coming in it is going to get hot real fast. AC will also get it hot in a hurry. Having the brushless fan run all the time at lower speeds is not a big deal for it (I think they are rated for 40,000 hours) and they also draw less current. Now if you are always moving and don't do a lot of stop and go then the high temp one is not so bad. You can try the higher switch see if it works for you as it really depends on location/weather and driving habbits. What's nice about my set up is its like factory (milk crate design) and once you get any speed it is a direct blow through - which is better than any fan. These fans operate in 1/3's so 1/3 power at 175, 2/3 power at 185 and full power at 195 (assuming 175-195 controller).
Son of a .......
As posted earlier, after clearing the code the fuel gauge came back to life and was working normally. Yesterday, after driving approx 50 miles since the re-set, the same thing occurred. Fuel gauge pegged to zero and the CEL on.
HALP
It is detecting a miss match between the left and right side tank, so either sensors are messed up, or siphon not working correctly. Car needs to detect that the passenger tank is empty, then drivers tank starts to empty. If it reads a certain mismatch, it throws an error and gauge goes to zero. You can turn off all the fuel sensor codes as a quick fix and it won't do that, but be aware the sensors may not be 100% accurate and probably still have an issue.
I installed the DeWitts radiator with brushless fan kit with the temp sensor installed in the intake manifold on my C2 1967 corvette coupe. I installed it 4 years ago and have replaced once a year the temp sensor. I have no idea what is causing this issue and I talked to Spal and DeWitt and they have been nothing but great and helpful with replacement sensors. I am checking all the ground source and all the connections. So once a year it has to be replaced. If anyone has any ideas or has experienced this problem please reach out to me I would very greatful
sincerely HEADS UP
Is the temp sensor suspended enough from the manifold itself. I know on some of the intake manifolds the sensor hole is not very deep. So it is just touching the manifold inside.