No Start
07-02-2018, 05:51 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
No Start
I swapped my 06 LS2 for a dry sump (converted to wet sump) built 416 LS3. It is finally buttoned up and I attempted to start, but it wont. It simply cranks but doesn't run. I am not getting any fuel (tested with a noid light) or spark. Naturally, I checked the crank sensor and made sure it was plugged in. It is the gray style plug indicating that I have the 58X style wheel from my last motor/ECM. I am going to have a look with HP Tuners next to see if it is throwing any codes. I was under the impression that the cam sensors are the same, but am I missing anything else? Can anyone suggest some things? Is a crank relearn necessary now? Any input is helpful.
Side note, the car hasn't been started in about 2 years- so I am not ruling out the crank sensor being 'bad' or even the ECM.
Side note, the car hasn't been started in about 2 years- so I am not ruling out the crank sensor being 'bad' or even the ECM.
07-02-2018, 06:44 PM
#2
Safety Car
I swapped my 06 LS2 for a dry sump (converted to wet sump) built 416 LS3. It is finally buttoned up and I attempted to start, but it wont. It simply cranks but doesn't run. I am not getting any fuel (tested with a noid light) or spark. Naturally, I checked the crank sensor and made sure it was plugged in. It is the gray style plug indicating that I have the 58X style wheel from my last motor/ECM. I am going to have a look with HP Tuners next to see if it is throwing any codes. I was under the impression that the cam sensors are the same, but am I missing anything else? Can anyone suggest some things? Is a crank relearn necessary now? Any input is helpful.
Side note, the car hasn't been started in about 2 years- so I am not ruling out the crank sensor being 'bad' or even the ECM.
Side note, the car hasn't been started in about 2 years- so I am not ruling out the crank sensor being 'bad' or even the ECM.
Last edited by irok; 07-02-2018 at 06:54 PM.
07-02-2018, 07:23 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by irok
anytime that many parts are replaced your factory service manual say's a crank relearn procedure should be done.Relearn can be done with HPTuning but not familiar with how its done with engine not running.did you use the 4X cam gear from your old engine?
07-02-2018, 08:02 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by irok
anytime that many parts are replaced your factory service manual say's a crank relearn procedure should be done.Relearn can be done with HPTuning but not familiar with how its done with engine not running.did you use the 4X cam gear from your old engine?
07-02-2018, 11:25 PM
#5
Safety Car
as best I remember even if the cam gear is not correct the car will still start although it will have a long crank time as long as crank position sensor is working properly.the cam gear would need to be changed to fix that issue though.we may both be missing something.did you find the crank relearn procedure in HPTuning?
07-03-2018, 09:10 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
I may be wrong, but I would think you'd have to either reprogram the PCM or bring in the LS3 PCM with key (or you'd hit the security roadblock).
07-03-2018, 02:25 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Konrad
I may be wrong, but I would think you'd have to either reprogram the PCM or bring in the LS3 PCM with key (or you'd hit the security roadblock).
07-03-2018, 04:45 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
HPTuners says I am getting no RPM (Crank sensor) and no MAF. I'm not sure why both of these would be unresponsive, together. It has been two years since the car started, but they shouldn't just go bad... Right?
07-03-2018, 10:42 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Red06Vette
Did you put the LS3 MAF in the LS2 Car? Did a LS7 into a 2006 LS2 and I had to use the LS2 MAF to get it running, would not start with LS7 MAF(same as LS3 MAF).
Last edited by slow goat; 07-03-2018 at 10:43 PM.
07-04-2018, 08:28 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Does anyone know :
When going from the LS2 to LS3, (58X) simply moving the crank sensor is all that is needed? Is a shim needed? Is it any different for a dry sump?
When going from the LS2 to LS3, (58X) simply moving the crank sensor is all that is needed? Is a shim needed? Is it any different for a dry sump?
07-04-2018, 12:58 PM
#12
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 9,523
Received 2,124 Likes
on
1,689 Posts
I swapped my 06 LS2 for a dry sump (converted to wet sump) built 416 LS3. It is finally buttoned up and I attempted to start, but it wont. It simply cranks but doesn't run. I am not getting any fuel (tested with a noid light) or spark. Naturally, I checked the crank sensor and made sure it was plugged in. It is the gray style plug indicating that I have the 58X style wheel from my last motor/ECM. I am going to have a look with HP Tuners next to see if it is throwing any codes. I was under the impression that the cam sensors are the same, but am I missing anything else? Can anyone suggest some things? Is a crank relearn necessary now? Any input is helpful.
Side note, the car hasn't been started in about 2 years- so I am not ruling out the crank sensor being 'bad' or even the ECM.
Side note, the car hasn't been started in about 2 years- so I am not ruling out the crank sensor being 'bad' or even the ECM.
Last edited by C5 Diag; 07-04-2018 at 12:59 PM.
07-04-2018, 03:31 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by rwobs777
I’m a C5 guy but just because it’s “plugged in” doesn’t guarantee the crank sensor is working !!
07-04-2018, 04:15 PM
#14
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 9,523
Received 2,124 Likes
on
1,689 Posts
The sensor should be a 3 wire Hall Effect sensor like my 2001...should be 12 volt feed, a ground (low reference), and a signal wire...with the sensor unplugged and KOEO I’d check for 12 volts with a test light (or multimeter) between the feed and low ref...if light lights those 2 wires are ok...I can’t remember if the “signal wire” is a pull up or pull down design...if it’s a pull down you would see 12 volts at the signal wire with a multimeter connected between the signal wire and ground...if it’s a pull up you would see around .03 volts...if you see .03 volts with the multimeter still connected take that test light and connect it to battery positive...touch the tip to the signal wire (multimeter lead connected to it) and you should see the voltage go to 12 volts... if you see 12 volts at the signal wire with it unplugged connect the test light to battery negative and touch the signal wire (really to the multimeter lead connected to it)... the voltage will pull down to around .03 volts...if that good it’s a bad sensor !!..,I’m lucky enough to have a high end bi-directional scan tool and oscilloscope so it’s a LOT easier for me to check mine out if it were bad !!
Last edited by C5 Diag; 07-04-2018 at 04:21 PM.
07-05-2018, 04:47 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by rwobs777
The sensor should be a 3 wire Hall Effect sensor like my 2001...should be 12 volt feed, a ground (low reference), and a signal wire...with the sensor unplugged and KOEO I’d check for 12 volts with a test light (or multimeter) between the feed and low ref...if light lights those 2 wires are ok...I can’t remember if the “signal wire” is a pull up or pull down design...if it’s a pull down you would see 12 volts at the signal wire with a multimeter connected between the signal wire and ground...if it’s a pull up you would see around .03 volts...if you see .03 volts with the multimeter still connected take that test light and connect it to battery positive...touch the tip to the signal wire (multimeter lead connected to it) and you should see the voltage go to 12 volts... if you see 12 volts at the signal wire with it unplugged connect the test light to battery negative and touch the signal wire (really to the multimeter lead connected to it)... the voltage will pull down to around .03 volts...if that good it’s a bad sensor !!..,I’m lucky enough to have a high end bi-directional scan tool and oscilloscope so it’s a LOT easier for me to check mine out if it were bad !!
07-05-2018, 05:58 PM
#16
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 9,523
Received 2,124 Likes
on
1,689 Posts
07-11-2018, 05:18 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by rwobs777
Let us know the outcome !!
07-11-2018, 05:44 PM
#18
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Cape Coral, Florida
Posts: 9,523
Received 2,124 Likes
on
1,689 Posts
07-14-2018, 04:47 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I scanned the car and got a cam sensor code. So, today I replaced the cam sensor and now, the car sputters, coughs, sounds like it wants to start and dies. I am noticing now that the MAP sensor reading shows that the car is under 5 lbs of boost before I crank the motor(3 bar map). I am receiving P0107 DTC. The MAP sensor has an LS2 to LS3 extension on it. I suspect there might be a problem here next. But would this cause the car not to start? I unplugged the sensor, saw 0 boost as it should prior to start, then attempted. Still no start.