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C6 z51 Brake question

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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 06:04 AM
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Default C6 z51 Brake question

I installed the caliper brakets and rotors on the rear. The brake pads only contact about 3/4 of the new rotor width. What gives??
Looks like the pads have identical part #'s for c6 base and z51.
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Old Jul 12, 2018 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 54fighting
I installed the caliper brackets and rotors on the rear. The brake pads only contact about 3/4 of the new rotor width. What gives??
Looks like the pads have identical part #'s for c6 base and z51.
Thanks
Normal for the needed brake balance front to rear, and you can see the contact line stop point of my painted rotor hats.
Attachment 48339776

As for when you do a brake job, pull the bracket guide pins out off the brackets to make sure they are greased and not surface peen, pull the anti shim of the brackets (#9) to clean and grease both sides of then before snapping them back into the brackets, grease the back of the pads (make sure to work some grease into the edges of the shim plate to back of pads edges as well) and the contact points on the calipers flats where it will contact the back of the pads, and make sure to grease the ends of the pad tabs where they slip into the anti shim channels.

ON the guide pins, you will need to back them up with a small thin wrench on their flats just above the rubber cups, and the small bolts (#4) get lots of 242 blue loctite on their threads, and torque to 23ft lbs.
The guide pins are part #6,

Note, the large bracket bolts get flooded in 242 loctite, and there torque value is 125flbs isntead.


As for brake pads, the one with the extending tab on it that is towards the pad material on the end, will always be the inside pad.
You can see the extending tabs on the bottom pads in this photo, and they are the ones that get mounted to the inside, with the pad without that extending arm mounted to the outside.

Also, although the both the base and the z51 HD parts are the same size and both semi metallic, the z51 HD pads have a higher working temp, and a hell of lot more aggressive to give better initial bite/better stopping power, and better pedal feed back as well. I bring this up, since you replacing the pads on the Z51 with oem pads, make sure you have the HD pads, and not the base pads.


As for rotors, when it doubt, have them faced if there is any grooving on the rotors. Standard rotors cost about $10 each to turn them, while drilled rotors cost about $15 each instead.

My low done since I have a Z51 option vet, get about 30K out of the HD pads, have the rotors turned at the same time at 30K when I replace with New HD pads, and then at the 60K mark, will need to replace the rotors with new rotors at the same time since there is only enough meat on the rotors to turn them once only. Also at the 60K mark, buy that time the guide pins are peen to hell even correctly greased, and all of them get replaced as well. If you have been pushing the car hard, then at the 60 car mark, double check the caliper to make sure that they are still square. Hence on the C5 high speed road course vets, it was not uncommon to end up bending the U of the caliper open, and having to replace the caliper yearly isntead.

Last edited by Dano523; Jul 12, 2018 at 07:21 AM.
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