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Polyurethane Bushing Install

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Old 07-17-2018, 01:44 PM
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xxblamedxx
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Default Polyurethane Bushing Install

Before I get the car 100% put back together I am taking the time to address the weak C6 rubber bushing and installing the Energy Suspension control arm bushings and Prothane sway bar bushings....


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Old 07-19-2018, 11:39 PM
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hydrasport
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Interesting video. Looks like a lot of work. Is this setup for street use only or some road course or autocross? Let us know how the bushings effect the ride quality.
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Old 07-20-2018, 04:56 AM
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Two questions:
What did you use to loosen the rear lower ball joint nut? Closed end wrench?

i didnít follow why taking out the two lower pivot bolts let you not pull the drive axles.

And what is that awesome high lift hydraulic jack???
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Old 07-20-2018, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by hydrasport View Post
Interesting video. Looks like a lot of work. Is this setup for street use only or some road course or autocross? Let us know how the bushings effect the ride quality.
It was a lot of work, but super cheap. Like $200 for all the bushings. I took me about 20 hrs of work to get all the bushes in.

Mainly a street car, it may make it to Hallet a time or 2.

It did make the ride more firm. Biggest gain for me is it doesne't pull under boost now. Before it would dart to the left under boost. Little more NVH, but honestly the trans/motor mounts are the harshest. I am thinking about going back to stock.
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Old 07-20-2018, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Jfryjfry View Post
Two questions:
What did you use to loosen the rear lower ball joint nut? Closed end wrench?

i didnít follow why taking out the two lower pivot bolts let you not pull the drive axles.

And what is that awesome high lift hydraulic jack???


I tried to illustrate with a cheesy picture. Basically grab an open end wrench and start unscrewing the ball joint nut until it wedges up against the axle. If you support the lower control arm and leave the spindle hanging in air the nut will force the ball joint to pop loose from the spindle and you can drop the control arm with out removing anything else. Pull the alignment bolts from the frame, shock bolt, sway bar, and the ball joint those are the only things holding the lower arm to the car.


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Old 07-20-2018, 02:36 PM
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Got it. Thanks for the super technical drawing as well!


also, who makes that high lift jack (that is about 3-4í tall) and what are they called??

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Old 07-20-2018, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by xxblamedxx View Post
,but honestly the trans/motor mounts are the harshest. I am thinking about going back to stock.
Which brand/type of motor and trans mounts did you install?

Last edited by Dano523; 07-20-2018 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 07-20-2018, 05:21 PM
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I used this kit. It solves the issue with the rear upper bushing. https://www.corvettemods.com/C5-C6-C...xoC_9gQAvD_BwE
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Old 07-22-2018, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Dano523 View Post
Which brand/type of motor and trans mounts did you install?
I got the hinson poly trans and motor mounts. They eliminated the drive train movement but the make the cabin resonate with certain engine rpm. I actual had to idel the engine at 720 to make it go away sitting at a light. idle at 650 was awful. I've only had them for about 250 miles so I'll update in a few more weeks when I get more miles on them.

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Old 07-22-2018, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Jfryjfry View Post
Got it. Thanks for the super technical drawing as well!


also, who makes that high lift jack (that is about 3-4í tall) and what are they called??
It is a trans jack from harbor freight..
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Old 07-22-2018, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by xxblamedxx View Post
I got the hinson poly trans and motor mounts. They eliminated the drive train movement but the make the cabin resonate with certain engine rpm. I actual had to idel the engine at 720 to make it go away sitting at a light. idle at 650 was awful. I've only had them for about 250 miles so I'll update in a few more weeks when I get more miles on them.
OEM are fluid filled to solve that problem to allow them to dampen better, but you end up with a lot of motor movement even before they crack to let all the fluid out.

So the Hinsion are more solid with less dampening, but still strange on that amount of noise transfer threw the mounts at low RPMS.


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Old 07-22-2018, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523 View Post
OEM are fluid filled to solve that problem to allow them to dampen better, but you end up with a lot of motor movement even before they crack to let all the fluid out.

So the Hinsion are more solid with less dampening, but still strange on that amount of noise transfer threw the mounts at low RPMS.
I had the Pfadt mounts and they shook the hell out of the car. The Hinson ones I have now are very smooth. I did all 4 at one time. Very happy with the Hinson's. Big cams kill the OE mounts pretty fast.


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Old 08-04-2018, 02:34 PM
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I also have poly bushed in everything though...once I changed the idle to 700 RPM the noise is significantly less.
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