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Anyone using the LT1-SC triple disk rated for 1500hp? i just got mine installed and this is my first multi disk clutch so im just wondering a few things...
first, is it common to have what seems to be 2 levels of grip? meaning when you start to let the clutch out to start moving it applies enough pressure to slightly roll the car if on a level surface and then theres a 2nd 100% grip level that comes on as if its spring loaded ?
now im only 280mi into brek in so i cant yet practice anything serious with it but judging based on how the clutch acts just stop and go driving, im wondering how difficult will it be to actually slip this clutch at the 1/4 strip? seems like its gonna be all or nothing!
Last edited by 7.0Ltrs of Love; Jul 25, 2018 at 08:30 AM.
There is no magic 1500hp clutch that behaves exactly like a stock clutch. Have you verified your clutch isn't dragging? Put the car on a level surface, depress clutch, put shifter in first, rev the engine to 5k somewhat slowly and notice whether the car tries to move forward. If it does, you clutch isn't fully disengaging.
There is no magic 1500hp clutch that behaves exactly like a stock clutch. Have you verified your clutch isn't dragging? Put the car on a level surface, depress clutch, put shifter in first, rev the engine to 5k somewhat slowly and notice whether the car tries to move forward. If it does, you clutch isn't fully disengaging.
oh i know! im just wanting to hear from others who have used this clutch to see if it acts the same way?
i will jack the rear up and see if wheels spin while stepping on clutch and revving up.
It is all done inside the car. It helps you remove unnecessary clutch pedal travel which helps your muscle memory learn the friction zone.
This. It goes on the pedal to restrict movement. More than likely you're over extending the PP which is causing the feel that it has two engagement points. Lingenfelter sells the clutch stop for $30 or so. The spring is also on the pedal. Just pop it off with a screw driver and enjoy a consistent clutch pedal.
This. It goes on the pedal to restrict movement. More than likely you're over extending the PP which is causing the feel that it has two engagement points. Lingenfelter sells the clutch stop for $30 or so. The spring is also on the pedal. Just pop it off with a screw driver and enjoy a consistent clutch pedal.
Would they have designed it that way?? I mean I ordered the complete kit and had it professionally installed by a shop that used to carry their products so I mean why would they have designed a clutch that would over extend the PP?
now what exactly does the clutch stop do? Does it limit pedal travel or something? Because if it does then you'd think it would cause problems as this clutch seem to fully engage really high
Yes, it limits pedal travel. It's a triple disc clutch. You shouldn't need to depress the pedal very far to disengage the clutch. I couldn't tell you what or how the clutch was designed. I added a clutch stop to my Monster LT1-S and I have 0 engagement issues. I spin the motor to over 7400rpms and have had 0 shifting issues. My buddy runs the triple disc and told me the clutch stop was recommended, but don't remember by whom. YMMV.
Yes, it limits pedal travel. It's a triple disc clutch. You shouldn't need to depress the pedal very far to disengage the clutch. I couldn't tell you what or how the clutch was designed. I added a clutch stop to my Monster LT1-S and I have 0 engagement issues. I spin the motor to over 7400rpms and have had 0 shifting issues. My buddy runs the triple disc and told me the clutch stop was recommended, but don't remember by whom. YMMV.
well the reason I'm concerned about having issues is because like I stated in my first post, the clutch starts to engage as soon as I let the pedal out withing the first 1/3 of pedal travel. It's definitely not full grip as it feels like a very loose stahl converter and just slips but it's enough to move the car on a flat surface. Then after about 2/3 of pedal travel you really feel that spring more than stock and that's where the grip is almost instantaneous. I mean you can still slip it but the engagement is very tight.... so if I am to use a clutch stop then that first 3rd of pedal travel will be blocked and I'd be trying to shift while it's not fully disengaged? Or is that not a problem with triples? I'm running my stock tranny I just dont want to kill synchros ya know?
oh i know! im just wanting to hear from others who have used this clutch to see if it acts the same way?
i will jack the rear up and see if wheels spin while stepping on clutch and revving up.
Do not jack the car up. I gave you the complete set of instructions to test it. If you jack the back of the car up, the tires _will_ rotate barely even if the clutch is disengaging.
well the reason I'm concerned about having issues is because like I stated in my first post, the clutch starts to engage as soon as I let the pedal out withing the first 1/3 of pedal travel. It's definitely not full grip as it feels like a very loose stahl converter and just slips but it's enough to move the car on a flat surface. Then after about 2/3 of pedal travel you really feel that spring more than stock and that's where the grip is almost instantaneous. I mean you can still slip it but the engagement is very tight.... so if I am to use a clutch stop then that first 3rd of pedal travel will be blocked and I'd be trying to shift while it's not fully disengaged? Or is that not a problem with triples? I'm running my stock tranny I just dont want to kill synchros ya know?
See how it shifts if you only depress the pedal halfway. Have you contacted Monster or the shop that installed the clutch?
Do not jack the car up. I gave you the complete set of instructions to test it. If you jack the back of the car up, the tires _will_ rotate barely even if the clutch is disengaging.
well in that case the car doesn't move at all as I've had it in my garage and can stop on the clutch and it won't the car won't budge!
See how it shifts if you only depress the pedal halfway. Have you contacted Monster or the shop that installed the clutch?
I did contact monster today and they actually said this is normal for this clutch. They also told me to remove the pedal return spring. I asked about the clutch stop and they said sometimes cars need them but if I'm not having any issues (and I explained exactly what I've explained here to them) then there is no need for a clutch stop.
I hope I'm not hijacking your thread. I've been thinking about installing the clutch stop. I've got a Mamo BC2 and my engagement is clear at the top. Does the clutch pedal spring need to be removed when using the stop? I've read in other posts that a clutch relearn needs to be done. If so how does one do that?
I hope I'm not hijacking your thread. I've been thinking about installing the clutch stop. I've got a Mamo BC2 and my engagement is clear at the top. Does the clutch pedal spring need to be removed when using the stop? I've read in other posts that a clutch relearn needs to be done. If so how does one do that?
Ryan
I'm not sure if the spring needs to be removed with a clutch stop but I wouldn't think so...
Ive also done a lot of reading about that spring and read that removing the spring could lead to future hydraulic issues. I guess GM posted a TSB about it something having to do with not bleeding pressure or air or something in the master which only happens in the first MILLIMETER of pedal travel so if you remove that spring you potentially risk the pedal not coming up as far as it needs to bleed this pressure upon release.
so now I'm reconsidering removing mine unfortunately
I'm not sure if the spring needs to be removed with a clutch stop but I wouldn't think so...
Ive also done a lot of reading about that spring and read that removing the spring could lead to future hydraulic issues. I guess GM posted a TSB about it something having to do with not bleeding pressure or air or something in the master which only happens in the first MILLIMETER of pedal travel so if you remove that spring you potentially risk the pedal not coming up as far as it needs to bleed this pressure upon release.
so now I'm reconsidering removing mine unfortunately
There is a linear return spring that can be installed in place of it. The factory spring changes from an assist to a return around midpoint in the travel which makes a smooth release more difficult.
I'm not sure if the spring needs to be removed with a clutch stop but I wouldn't think so...
Ive also done a lot of reading about that spring and read that removing the spring could lead to future hydraulic issues. I guess GM posted a TSB about it something having to do with not bleeding pressure or air or something in the master which only happens in the first MILLIMETER of pedal travel so if you remove that spring you potentially risk the pedal not coming up as far as it needs to bleed this pressure upon release.
so now I'm reconsidering removing mine unfortunately
I bought a spring pack from home depot and connected it to the bolt on the clutch stop to under the dash.
I've only noticed every once in a while that the clutch does not fully return to the upward position. I check it multiple times while driving. Just pull it up with your foot. Not as big a deal as you're making it out to be. Plenty of people have removed the spring without any issue.