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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 06:10 AM
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Default Vacuum source location help

I purchased a npp in a box kit from a member here for my LT1 base, it requires a vacuum source to operate. The instructions for LS3 engines is to break off a T tab on the back of the intake next to the fitting for the brake booster. My 2008 LS3 factory intake does not have this "T" tab but does have a large plastic protrusion that I can't clearly see, there's no way I'm going to try and snap it off. I need to locate a vacuum source, can't I just tap into the brake booster line? Any other idea's? Thanks
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 08:06 AM
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You can use the brake booster line. There is a t adapter available that allows you to use the MAP sensor line as well. That's what I used.

Last edited by BadAV; Sep 7, 2018 at 08:06 AM.
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BadAV
You can use the brake booster line. There is a t adapter available that allows you to use the MAP sensor line as well. That's what I used.
The kit did come with a T fitting adapter for LS2 engines, is that what you used to tap into the MAP?
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Cockroach
The kit did come with a T fitting adapter for LS2 engines, is that what you used to tap into the MAP?
I got the one for the LS3 since that's what I have. It's my understanding that the fittings are slightly different between the LS2 and LS3. Maybe you can contact the seller and see if they will send you the adapter part(s). From what I gathered from research, without actually seeing both adapters, it appears there is a "sleeve" arrangement on one of the hoses for the LS3.
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Cockroach
I purchased a npp in a box kit from a member here for my LT1 base, it requires a vacuum source to operate. The instructions for LS3 engines is to break off a T tab on the back of the intake next to the fitting for the brake booster. My 2008 LS3 factory intake does not have this "T" tab but does have a large plastic protrusion that I can't clearly see, there's no way I'm going to try and snap it off. I need to locate a vacuum source, can't I just tap into the brake booster line? Any other idea's? Thanks
just put a t in the brake booster line on your LS2.the line is the same size as a LS3
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 10:10 AM
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Thanks for the help
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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 06:23 PM
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This is where I got my vacuum source:
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 07:00 AM
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AH! I did not see clearly the port, just the plastic tab blocking the port. Thank you for taking the time to post a picture.
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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BigBlok502
This is where I got my vacuum source:
I moved the coils to make more room, still can't get a good grip on the "T", my hands are large but not Mickey Mouse big. That damn tab blocking the vacuum port is in the way, need to try something else like snapping off that tab.
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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Cockroach
I moved the coils to make more room, still can't get a good grip on the "T", my hands are large but not Mickey Mouse big. That damn tab blocking the vacuum port is in the way, need to try something else like snapping off that tab.
I used a mirror and an Xacto knife to get back there and cut it off. PITA!
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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Sphurley
I used a mirror and an Xacto knife to get back there and cut it off. PITA!
The tab or the T?
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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 03:56 PM
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The T, then

I made sure there was a clear hole with a pick I heated and bent.
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Old Sep 9, 2018 | 06:11 PM
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I used a small open end wrench, 5/16" or 1/4", and using the braille method, reached back there and a slight twist it came off. I also used the braille method to push the vacuum hose on. I don't recall breaking the tab off, it's been a couple years since I added NPP.
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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 06:33 AM
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So evidently I do have Mickey Mouse size hands because unless your a 15 year old contortionist getting your hands back behind the manifold is next to impossible. What I did was carefully use a Dremel to cut the tab blocking the vacuum port down to expose the "T" on the tip of the port, then used a long flat blade screw driver to knock off the 'T". I checked the port opening like member sphurley did with a pick and all was good. After all this the damn thing doesn't work. I have vacuum at the box mounted in the hatch well and followed the instructions but when I started the engine and pressed the fob nothing happened. I need to check the power source and dbl check the actuator lines but wtf!
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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Cockroach
So evidently I do have Mickey Mouse size hands because unless your a 15 year old contortionist getting your hands back behind the manifold is next to impossible. What I did was carefully use a Dremel to cut the tab blocking the vacuum port down to expose the "T" on the tip of the port, then used a long flat blade screw driver to knock off the 'T". I checked the port opening like member sphurley did with a pick and all was good. After all this the damn thing doesn't work. I have vacuum at the box mounted in the hatch well and followed the instructions but when I started the engine and pressed the fob nothing happened. I need to check the power source and dbl check the actuator lines but wtf!
Did you try both buttons on the fob? And did you remove the plastic tab in the fob that was keeping the battery inactivated? Most likely you did, but it's worth asking.

Last edited by BadAV; Sep 11, 2018 at 10:07 AM.
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Old Sep 11, 2018 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by BadAV
Did you try both buttons on the fob? And did you remove the plastic tab in the fob that was keeping the battery inactivated? Most likely you did, but it's worth asking.
Yes, the little red light on each fob will light up when on or off is pressed.
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 06:02 AM
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I did a dbl check of all connections and found that inside the control box the wires to the solenoid were not connected. The system is now working and I could not be happier with now having control of the exhaust volume.
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