2012 GS Dry sump oil pump Replacement
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From: West Palm beach Florida
2012 GS Dry sump oil pump Replacement
This is my first activity in the dry sump oiling arena. I am getting ready to replace the camshaft and install the supercharger on my 2012 GS M6 but concerned / confused on the info of the dry sump oil pump. My local speed shop suggested I upgrade to a Melling oil pump while in that far but I hear stories that you have to drop the oil pan to use the special alignment tool to set the pump position as well as a special tool to center the front cover, and then I hear some say no you can eyeball it. Is there any write-ups on the dry sump pump R&R?
Im reaching out to the experts since winging it can be a costly mistake.
Any other advice on the cam swap is also appreciated. Was thinking of going with the A&A supercharger cam, with dual springs and new PR's as well as trunion upgrade. My goal is around 600 RWHP, without losing too much daily driver or creating a handful at low speeds.
Thank you for any and all advice.
Im reaching out to the experts since winging it can be a costly mistake.
Any other advice on the cam swap is also appreciated. Was thinking of going with the A&A supercharger cam, with dual springs and new PR's as well as trunion upgrade. My goal is around 600 RWHP, without losing too much daily driver or creating a handful at low speeds.
Thank you for any and all advice.
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Yes and yes.
When you install the oil pump, you use feeler gauges center it on the crank shaft, and when the valve cover is installed, you use a aligment tool to center it on the crank shaft as well.
As for the dry sump pumps, they are already make good pressure, and if your looking to get a touch more volume out of it, you can port the OEM one.
[img]https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUyMw==/z/fi8AAOSwuTtZ3BWY/$/GM-LS-Gen-III-IV-Timing-Cover-_57.jpg
When you install the oil pump, you use feeler gauges center it on the crank shaft, and when the valve cover is installed, you use a aligment tool to center it on the crank shaft as well.
As for the dry sump pumps, they are already make good pressure, and if your looking to get a touch more volume out of it, you can port the OEM one.
[img]https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUyMw==/z/fi8AAOSwuTtZ3BWY/$/GM-LS-Gen-III-IV-Timing-Cover-_57.jpg
Last edited by Dano523; Sep 26, 2018 at 09:16 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2017
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From: West Palm beach Florida
With only 27K miles and oil changes done every 3500 miles do you think there is any need to change/upgrade the oil pump? As it sits now, when I start it up it pegs the gauge, and nearly always when hot is well above 40 psi? Trying not to waste money, but will do what is right if there is benefit to the change. Thank you
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Joined: Dec 2013
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With only 27K miles and oil changes done every 3500 miles do you think there is any need to change/upgrade the oil pump? As it sits now, when I start it up it pegs the gauge, and nearly always when hot is well above 40 psi? Trying not to waste money, but will do what is right if there is benefit to the change. Thank you
Also, guessing that your not increasing the rev limiter as well.
Myself, would just pull the OEM pump to port it so it has a little more cleaner volume flow, shim it correctly when you reinstall it, and call is good.
Last edited by Dano523; Sep 27, 2018 at 09:12 AM.
