Please help with this noise
Last edited by titanescape; Oct 15, 2018 at 03:39 PM.
This is also why I would get an all metal one as a replacement and never worry about it. One like an ATI Super Damper.
Well after I replaced my radiator, I had some antifreeze leak onto my belt and what not. I heard that antifreeze isnt exactly good for the belts.
Before that on every cold start it would chirp a little until warmed up enough.
Today I tried the trick where you put soap onto the underside of the belt and it completely stopped chirping immediately. I let the car idle for about 10 minutes and the sound slowly started coming back very very faintly. Im sure if I drove it for some time it would be back how it was all together.
I ordered a Gates belt and I'll get it tomorrow morning. I'll work on putting it on and report back with you guys. If the problem persists, I will be taking the next step as to which pulley or tensioner it might be.
(A lot of people recommend that if you are changing a belt for its age or condition and depending on your car's age, to replace all pulleys and tensioner all in one go to save problems in the future.)
Last edited by Jaime-Corvette; Oct 15, 2018 at 07:38 PM.
Well after I replaced my radiator, I had some antifreeze leak onto my belt and what not. I heard that antifreeze isnt exactly good for the belts.
Before that on every cold start it would chirp a little until warmed up enough.
Today I tried the trick where you put soap onto the underside of the belt and it completely stopped chirping immediately. I let the car idle for about 10 minutes and the sound slowly started coming back very very faintly. Im sure if I drove it for some time it would be back how it was all together.
I ordered a Gates belt and I'll get it tomorrow morning. I'll work on putting it on and report back with you guys. If the problem persists, I will be taking the next step as to which pulley or tensioner it might be.
(A lot of people recommend that if you are changing a belt for its age or condition and depending on your car's age, to replace all pulleys and tensioner all in one go to save problems in the future.)
FYI: Dont buy bearings for alternator or tensioner just buy the whole thing, it's easier and cheaper. I've heard of people trying to change just the bearing
Last edited by Jaime-Corvette; Oct 16, 2018 at 04:29 PM.
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goodluck with your problems guys!!
spend a little more for an aftermarket one and never dea with it again. Goodluck with your problem.
If you can't locate a problematic belt, tensioner/idler, accessory unit: I believe it's the harmonic balancer. My 06 C6 was making a similar chirping sound intermittently and my balancer appeared to very slightly wobble - less so than your video. I initially thought it was due to cleaning my engine bay, because the noise became apparent 1-2 days after I cleaned. The wobble I witnessed with my HB didn't seem significant and was no where near as pronounced as other examples of problematic HBs I researched on different forums/online, so I didn't believe it was the problem as many have discussed that a slight HB wobble is normal. Car was at about 35K miles. Lubricating my belts made the noise go away - I replaced both belts, which were in great shape. Noise returned, but I was unsuccessful in locating the source. The tight engine bay made it a bit difficult. I thought it may be coming from the AC tensioner, but was unsure. I planned to replace it. The noise became louder upon start-up one cooler morning. I shut the car off and noticed the HB had walked forward slightly, but nothing was damaged. Car stayed parked until I repaired it.
If you have a similar issue and cannot locate a source, check your harmonic balancer. If it is wobbling and/or loose and requires replacement. DO NOT START YOUR ENGINE. Some forum members have had significant damage due to a failing HB/bolt. Most talk has been that this issue involved 2005 models, but its apparent that that is not true as many other year models have had the same problem.
- Replace/repair with a new bolt + high-temp/strength threadlocker and even pin your crank if you wish or will be going SC in the future. I went with an upgraded 25% underdrive pulley.
- Install new HB with an installation tool or drive with an aluminum/wood block that fits into the recessed portion of the damper as to not damage the damper.
- Use old bolt to tighten to 240 lb/ft - be sure damper is seated. Remove old bolt.
- Apply threadlocker to new bolt.
- Tighten new bolt to 37 lb/ft.
- Tighten bolt with a second pass to 140 degrees.
Threadlocker should be high temp/high strength. Loctite 272 or similar.
ARP bolts can be reused and have slightly different torque specs depending on if you're using threadlocker, assembly lube, nothing..etc. ARP P/N: 234-2503
If using UD pulley - 25% underdrive pulleys require a shorter main belt - 78" (6 rib). P/N I used: Dayco 5060780. Similar belts will work. Factory belt length is 80". AC belt should be the same length as factory.
You can use this opportunity to replace other pulleys, timing cover seal, install a cam..etc.
Link to post describing how to get to damper: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1570884721
Last edited by ImBoosted; Oct 25, 2018 at 10:22 PM.










