I have a c6 corvette that I plan on adding an YSI supercharger to get 800rwhp. My last A&A Si trim constantly oiled up my air filter and I was wondering if I purchased an catch can that would help out with all the oil that keeps gumming up my air filter. With the Si trim it was pretty bad, I'm really worried about the YSI version as it will be moving more air thus creating even an bigger mess. I spoke with a rep from A&A and he basically said instead of 10qts of oil only put in 8qts because of the blow by on the sc. This puts me on the edge a little as I'm worried about the car not being oiled properly under hard acceleration. my big question is do these oil catch cans really work.

 

 

With S/C, under boost pressure, the dirty side has a back ckeck vavle so you not dumping pressure out the intake manifold port, and all the blow by boost past the pistons is coming through the clean side isntead. Hence blow by boost out of the valve covers, to the oil tank, and out of the front tank port into the air filter system.


So catch can is installed between the oil take vent, and the air intake port.

The mighty mouse has a filtered one way vavle on it to help dump some of that pressure out if mounted on the dirty side (into the engine bay area that can create a mess over time), but your still seeing pressure on the oil catch can on a dry sump system as well.

So due to such, like to run a dual can set up on both clean and dirty sides, and on the valley port line to the dirtily catch can, a blow off valve with line that I can route down and out the bottom of engine bay to dump the excess pressure under boost, instead of the excess dump boost into the engine bay area isntead.

As for dual catch cans, like the dual radium can set, since it has dip sticks on each can to see if its time to dump the oil out of the cans, pulls the bottom of the can screws off to make dumping the cans a snap as well.

 

We deal with Elite Engineering. They make a very nice high quality system. We have some excellent prices on them.

 

Go with Mighty Mouse and do it the right way once. I've sold a few used cans learning that lesson.

 

I ended up with elite engineering catch can

 

Installed on the clean or dirty side.


Again, with S/C, you have to install a one way valve on the intake manifold port so your not blowing boost pressure out the intake port, that shuts down the dirty side oil can during boost. Hence this means that all the boost blow-by/oil blow-by from the blower past the pistons is going to go out the valve cover ports (clean side), through the oil tank vent system and into the air cleaner system unchecked isntead.

As for the elite clean side oil separator that goes on the tank, works well with N/A motors, but not so well for high boost dry sump motors with the amount of pressure that your going to be pushing into the tank from the valve ports isntead.

 

my pressure release on the pcv and draft models is rated at up to 1500hp, and every other brand on the market does not even have a rating, further the vent is on the clean side of the can, so, provided the can is not overflowing or bypassing it is not one drip of mess, so i completely disagree with your opinion, backed by thousands of satisfied customers and my 15 years of development.

clean side separators and dual cans are hype and a band aid over a bullet hole.

oil is not the problem, it is the air. get control of the air and you will get control of the oil.

trying to catch the oil out of a line having an air flow problem, will only make the air flow problem worse.

i mean heck why don't we just cap all of these ports off then, and we wont have any oil leaving right, all better (no, not really).

 

David is 100% right. There is absolutely no mess or fumes with his cans. I had an elite can before his and its crap. Just couldn't do the job properly.

Its great that everyone wants to help but too often things are said when the author has no real experience with the product. Lots of assumptions made, based on hearsay, or bad experience with other products.

 

Dave, the only problem I see with a single catch can, if during boost, the dirty side back into the intake is closed off (one way valve so your not losing pressure out the intake, which means that you have pressure from the oil tank to the intake manifold that is not being addressed.

So at boost, you have pressure on both the valve covers and the valley covers from the blow by getting past the pistons, and without a catch can/oil separator on the oil can side to air filter side port, your still pushing oil/vapor to the intake.

Hence if I take this diagram with single can set up, then under boost when all the pressure is out of the motor from pressure blow by on both the valley cover and both vavle covers , your actually dumping the dirty side of the system from the valley cover, directly into the air filter side unchecked from what pressure has not blow through the can blow filter valve isntead.

https://doc-00-3c-docs.googleusercon...lptSk9ZVndYSnc

Hell, I'm easy and if you have diagrams for the dry sump motors with super charger that shows the pressure flow under non boost condition when the can should be under a vacuum with one way valve, and then during boost with the correct pressure flows arrows out of the motor on all the valley and valve cover ports, maybe then could understand how your design works to catch all the excess oil with a single can/keeps the system EPA legal by no venting excess vapors into the atmosphere isntead.

Again, can blow off valve (with filter in your case) should only be to control excess pressure that can no be directed into the intake filter port during boost that may burst something in the PVC system, and not to just have the system under boost just blowing all the piston blow-by pressure/vapors out of the motor block into the atmosphere, like back in 60's with just a breather filter on the oil fill cap; that is currently only allowed for off road use vehicles only.

 

 

Had elite, blew out seals, was a piece of junk, went to MM and would never go back.

Also don't do the Ysi.

Also don't be an askhole.

 

Why not "do it right the first time", and put a vacuum pump system on it? https://www.gzmotorsports.com/SPVPK-...-pump-kit.html

 

Because mounting a vacuum pump system on a blower car is extremely difficult, since the system goes right where the blower goes, and the blower also can work as a vacuum pump.

 

I found my catch cans to be a blessing after I got them installed. No more drips anywhere!

 

this is sort of ridiculous option for the 99%ers street/strip to daily driving their cars

and don't forget the vac pump needs to discharge to... a catch can!

 

 

I experimented / tested electric crank pumps a long time ago, something like 15 years as you can tell how long ago by the video quality!


aside from expected complications, there is the reliability issue, much like an electric water pump giving you a quick overheat when it failed, an electric scavenge pump would give you an instant crank pressure spike and possible seal blow out.

most notably i also found no improvement in daily driving or drag race results with the aux. pump. to back that up even the best mechanical pumps claim around 5% power increase (feel free to do an independent search and math here), so all things considering IMO it just ain't worth it.

 

 

We have hundreds of LS street kits in use, and very few complaints or failures. If you want about 15-20 HP, cleaner oil, no leaks, and no oil in your combustion chambers, a vacuum pump is far from "sort of ridiculous". you do need to drain the catch can occasionally, and there can be some odor. I personally have one on my hot rod shop truck and my race cars, but not on the Camaro family car.