Cracked fast 102
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Joined: May 2018
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Cracked fast 102
Well I’ve been having problems left and right and what should have been a weekend job has turned into months due to my work schedule.
I have a 2006 C6 Ls2 with simple bolts in’s. OBX longtubes, true duals to borla 2.5” axle backs, fast 102 intake manifold with stock throttle body and a lingenfelter intake.
While installing my fast 102 I got a little ahead of myself and didn’t do any research nor read any instructions and made a rookie move. Didn’t change out the valley cover bolts and now have a crack right across the bottom side of my intake. I bought it used from somebody else (no the crack wasn’t there when I bought it) and now have a baro metric pressure sensor code, assuming because of the leak on the bottom of the manifold.
So so my question is, is there a way to fix it? I traded my stock manifold for my axle backs not thinking I would ever need it again so putting my stock one back on is out of the question. Also, spending $500+ on a used or new intake manifold isn’t quite in the budget right now since I just got engaged and bought the fiancé a ring. From what I’ve read, if your boosted or any type of FI then don’t even bother fixing it but since I’m pretty much stock making somewhere in the 380-400 range once I’m tuned, I’m sure plastic welding or something along those lines would work. Anybody have any suggestions or had this problem and tried fixing it? Any of them hold for a durable amount of time, atleast until I can afford to buy a different manifold?
I have a 2006 C6 Ls2 with simple bolts in’s. OBX longtubes, true duals to borla 2.5” axle backs, fast 102 intake manifold with stock throttle body and a lingenfelter intake.
While installing my fast 102 I got a little ahead of myself and didn’t do any research nor read any instructions and made a rookie move. Didn’t change out the valley cover bolts and now have a crack right across the bottom side of my intake. I bought it used from somebody else (no the crack wasn’t there when I bought it) and now have a baro metric pressure sensor code, assuming because of the leak on the bottom of the manifold.
So so my question is, is there a way to fix it? I traded my stock manifold for my axle backs not thinking I would ever need it again so putting my stock one back on is out of the question. Also, spending $500+ on a used or new intake manifold isn’t quite in the budget right now since I just got engaged and bought the fiancé a ring. From what I’ve read, if your boosted or any type of FI then don’t even bother fixing it but since I’m pretty much stock making somewhere in the 380-400 range once I’m tuned, I’m sure plastic welding or something along those lines would work. Anybody have any suggestions or had this problem and tried fixing it? Any of them hold for a durable amount of time, atleast until I can afford to buy a different manifold?
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 13,592
Likes: 187
From: Hudson WI
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Don't laugh, but do a search for plastic welders in your area. Here is another option. https://www.harborfreight.com/plasti...ure-96464.html
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 1
Don't laugh, but do a search for plastic welders in your area. Here is another option. https://www.harborfreight.com/plasti...ure-96464.html
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 76
Likes: 16
From: Chicago IL
You would be really surprised how strong some of these 2 part epoxies are now a days.
I work on semi trucks for a living and occasionally we’ll run into a cracked radiator, (the plastic ends)
occasionally, if the truck is under a load or if we have to wait a few days for parts we have sanded the crack and laid some epoxy over it. Now before I’m shamed by everyone lol I work for a company that owns all their own trucks. I am patching our company owned trucks NOT out side customers.
But any ways we’ll throw some epoxy on the crack for a “temporary” repair, and every now and then it just gets for gotten about. The epoxy is holding back coolant that gets to 230 degrees and the pressure caps on these things is 17 psi I’ve seen epoxy hold for well over a year and still going.
As long as the intake is clean, the surface is scuffed with some sand paper I would feel pretty confident it would hold for quite some time
The stuff we use is called fusor 100ez
I work on semi trucks for a living and occasionally we’ll run into a cracked radiator, (the plastic ends)
occasionally, if the truck is under a load or if we have to wait a few days for parts we have sanded the crack and laid some epoxy over it. Now before I’m shamed by everyone lol I work for a company that owns all their own trucks. I am patching our company owned trucks NOT out side customers.
But any ways we’ll throw some epoxy on the crack for a “temporary” repair, and every now and then it just gets for gotten about. The epoxy is holding back coolant that gets to 230 degrees and the pressure caps on these things is 17 psi I’ve seen epoxy hold for well over a year and still going.
As long as the intake is clean, the surface is scuffed with some sand paper I would feel pretty confident it would hold for quite some time
The stuff we use is called fusor 100ez
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,184
Likes: 78
From: Corpus Christi Texas
JB Weld will work fine. On my 2005 I bought a FAST before they made one for the C6. I had to cut a section out and cover it with JB Weld to clear the cowl. I never had any issues with it. Had the car like that for 4 years before I sold it to get my ZO6
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From: corpus christi Texas
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 1
You would be really surprised how strong some of these 2 part epoxies are now a days.
I work on semi trucks for a living and occasionally we’ll run into a cracked radiator, (the plastic ends)
occasionally, if the truck is under a load or if we have to wait a few days for parts we have sanded the crack and laid some epoxy over it. Now before I’m shamed by everyone lol I work for a company that owns all their own trucks. I am patching our company owned trucks NOT out side customers.
But any ways we’ll throw some epoxy on the crack for a “temporary” repair, and every now and then it just gets for gotten about. The epoxy is holding back coolant that gets to 230 degrees and the pressure caps on these things is 17 psi I’ve seen epoxy hold for well over a year and still going.
As long as the intake is clean, the surface is scuffed with some sand paper I would feel pretty confident it would hold for quite some time
The stuff we use is called fusor 100ez
I work on semi trucks for a living and occasionally we’ll run into a cracked radiator, (the plastic ends)
occasionally, if the truck is under a load or if we have to wait a few days for parts we have sanded the crack and laid some epoxy over it. Now before I’m shamed by everyone lol I work for a company that owns all their own trucks. I am patching our company owned trucks NOT out side customers.
But any ways we’ll throw some epoxy on the crack for a “temporary” repair, and every now and then it just gets for gotten about. The epoxy is holding back coolant that gets to 230 degrees and the pressure caps on these things is 17 psi I’ve seen epoxy hold for well over a year and still going.
As long as the intake is clean, the surface is scuffed with some sand paper I would feel pretty confident it would hold for quite some time
The stuff we use is called fusor 100ez
so im thinking (and might sound overkill) but scuffing the surface and using the plastic welder and for any weak spots lay some epoxy over the weld. I’ve used some pretty tough epoxy before and I know how strong that stuff can get. I would just hate to only use epoxy and put to thin of a layer or vibrations crack through the epoxy and now I have a vacuum leak that’s even harder to trace.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,282
Likes: 552
From: Pittsburgh PA
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13-'14
You can at least get some mileage out of this by telling her you had a choice of fixing your Vette or getting her a ring, and she won.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,226
Likes: 643
From: Orange County Ca
so im thinking (and might sound overkill) but scuffing the surface and using the plastic welder and for any weak spots lay some epoxy over the weld. I’ve used some pretty tough epoxy before and I know how strong that stuff can get. I would just hate to only use epoxy and put to thin of a layer or vibrations crack through the epoxy and now I have a vacuum leak that’s even harder to trace.
Perhaps Fast can tell you what kind of material they use and if you can plastic weld it.
