Bad 160 Thermostat?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 64
From: Lakeville, MA
St. Jude Donor '10
Bad 160 Thermostat?
When changing the cam I installed a Lingenfelter 160 thermostat. I done this with each of my last 5 vettes and they have always had steady coolant temps around 176-178 while cruising. This one is acting much different and I think it may just be a bad one but want to see if anyone else has encountered this issue. Temps while cruising yesterday in 30 degree weather were 187-195 cruising, and if I held the RPM's around 3K temps temp would drop right down to 178. It almost seems like the thermostat isn't opening enough to move coolant at idle and cruise, but the higher RPM is moving the cool coolant past the thermostat. It's not overheating, just a lot of weird temperature swings. Any ideas?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
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Stat is fine,
Hence lower stat will help to hold the temp down a touch if your not on the throttle, but as soon as you get on the throttle more, the temp is going to rise upwards to around the 200+ degrees. If your trying to hold the temp at say 180 or below, then will need a better radiator, and fan system that the OEM unit is not up for the task isntead.
As for 160 stat and you driving the car in the cold weather, very, very bad idea. Hence the stat will start to open up at a lower temp, and can cold coolant shock the motor isntead.
Hence lower stat will help to hold the temp down a touch if your not on the throttle, but as soon as you get on the throttle more, the temp is going to rise upwards to around the 200+ degrees. If your trying to hold the temp at say 180 or below, then will need a better radiator, and fan system that the OEM unit is not up for the task isntead.
As for 160 stat and you driving the car in the cold weather, very, very bad idea. Hence the stat will start to open up at a lower temp, and can cold coolant shock the motor isntead.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 64
From: Lakeville, MA
St. Jude Donor '10
Originally Posted by Dano523
Stat is fine,
Hence lower stat will help to hold the temp down a touch if your not on the throttle, but as soon as you get on the throttle more, the temp is going to rise upwards to around the 200+ degrees. If your trying to hold the temp at say 180 or below, then will need a better radiator, and fan system that the OEM unit is not up for the task isntead.
As for 160 stat and you driving the car in the cold weather, very, very bad idea. Hence the stat will start to open up at a lower temp, and can cold coolant shock the motor isntead.
Hence lower stat will help to hold the temp down a touch if your not on the throttle, but as soon as you get on the throttle more, the temp is going to rise upwards to around the 200+ degrees. If your trying to hold the temp at say 180 or below, then will need a better radiator, and fan system that the OEM unit is not up for the task isntead.
As for 160 stat and you driving the car in the cold weather, very, very bad idea. Hence the stat will start to open up at a lower temp, and can cold coolant shock the motor isntead.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 64
From: Lakeville, MA
St. Jude Donor '10
Originally Posted by realcanuk
It's normal that the temp drops with higher rpm as coolant circulates faster. Mine does same thing. What you are describing sounds pretty normal to me.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 4,786
Likes: 425
From: North Georgia, USA
Check for blockage of the radiator and condenser (debris in front of it).
Make sure your cooling system is filled, completely, and you don't have air in the system.
If those aren't the problem, then the 160° thermostat is suspect. Are your fueling maps adjusted for that thermostat temperature?
Make sure your cooling system is filled, completely, and you don't have air in the system.
If those aren't the problem, then the 160° thermostat is suspect. Are your fueling maps adjusted for that thermostat temperature?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 64
From: Lakeville, MA
St. Jude Donor '10
Originally Posted by C6_Racer_X
Check for blockage of the radiator and condenser (debris in front of it).
Make sure your cooling system is filled, completely, and you don't have air in the system.
If those aren't the problem, then the 160° thermostat is suspect. Are your fueling maps adjusted for that thermostat temperature?
Make sure your cooling system is filled, completely, and you don't have air in the system.
If those aren't the problem, then the 160° thermostat is suspect. Are your fueling maps adjusted for that thermostat temperature?
Cooling systems is filled. I even pressurized the recovery tank to force coolant through the system and it didn't make any difference.
When you say fueling maps what exactly do you mean? In closed loop the car O2's will always get it back to stoich. But yes the car has been tuned.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,821
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From: Montreal
St. Jude Donor '13
Originally Posted by turboffr
Agreed. It's just that every other 160 thermostat that I've had in an LS engine, the temps have always been around 180 while cruising, not 194. My guess is thermostat isn't opening enough at low rpms to circulate enough.
Pro
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 647
Likes: 103
From: Aurora IL
Take t-stat out and check it in a pot of water heating on stove, when I checked my 160 it started to open at just below 160 and didn't fully open till about 172ish.. at 30* ambient your temp should be right near where it opens fully. 30* is cold out!!!
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Long Island
The stat is only to control the low temperature of the engine. If you are running over the temperature of the stat then the cooling system is not fully up to it's job.
I would check the stat in hot water to verify the opening temp. If the water pump is worn / under driven then this will cause it. Also check the return hose to see if it's collapsing.
If you have an insufficient mix of anti-freeze or the radiator cap is not pressurizing the system - then you can get "boiling " near any hot spots which can cause false readings.
Check the out put hose with a digital temperature gauge and verify the actual temps. Also depending on the fans - you may not be pulling enough air. Check the fan voltage at Idle and 1500 rpm. Check the temp of the return hose.
Stats open before the temperature listed. They are usually open fully within 5 to 7 degrees of the listed temp. Thus I would expect a 160 stat to start opening at 155 or so and be fully open by 165. (+/- 5 to 7) most are really close to the listed range.
My truck has a huge radiator - I put it in - it did a lot of heavy towing. With a 180 stat. no load, it runs between 175 and 185 all day long. Which is what I would expect.
I would check the stat in hot water to verify the opening temp. If the water pump is worn / under driven then this will cause it. Also check the return hose to see if it's collapsing.
If you have an insufficient mix of anti-freeze or the radiator cap is not pressurizing the system - then you can get "boiling " near any hot spots which can cause false readings.
Check the out put hose with a digital temperature gauge and verify the actual temps. Also depending on the fans - you may not be pulling enough air. Check the fan voltage at Idle and 1500 rpm. Check the temp of the return hose.
Stats open before the temperature listed. They are usually open fully within 5 to 7 degrees of the listed temp. Thus I would expect a 160 stat to start opening at 155 or so and be fully open by 165. (+/- 5 to 7) most are really close to the listed range.
My truck has a huge radiator - I put it in - it did a lot of heavy towing. With a 180 stat. no load, it runs between 175 and 185 all day long. Which is what I would expect.
Last edited by BLUE1972; Dec 9, 2018 at 07:59 PM. Reason: hate auto spell
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 64
From: Lakeville, MA
St. Jude Donor '10
Originally Posted by BLUE1972
The stat is only to control the low temperature of the engine. If you are running over the temperature of the stat then the cooling system is not fully up to it's job.
I would check the stat in hot water to verify the opening temp. If the water pump is worn / under driven then this will cause it. Also check the return hose to see if it's collapsing.
If you have an insufficient mix of anti-freeze or the radiator cap is not pressurizing the system - then you can get "boiling " near any hot spots which can cause false readings.
Check the out put hose with a digital temperature gauge and verify the actual temps. Also depending on the fans - you may not be pulling enough air. Check the fan voltage at Idle and 1500 rpm. Check the temp of the return hose.
Stats open before the temperature listed. They are usually open fully within 5 to 7 degrees of the listed temp. Thus I would expect a 160 stat to start opening at 155 or so and be fully open by 165. (+/- 5 to 7) most are really close to the listed range.
My truck has a huge radiator - I put it in - it did a lot of heavy towing. With a 180 stat. no load, it runs between 175 and 185 all day long. Which is what I would expect.
I would check the stat in hot water to verify the opening temp. If the water pump is worn / under driven then this will cause it. Also check the return hose to see if it's collapsing.
If you have an insufficient mix of anti-freeze or the radiator cap is not pressurizing the system - then you can get "boiling " near any hot spots which can cause false readings.
Check the out put hose with a digital temperature gauge and verify the actual temps. Also depending on the fans - you may not be pulling enough air. Check the fan voltage at Idle and 1500 rpm. Check the temp of the return hose.
Stats open before the temperature listed. They are usually open fully within 5 to 7 degrees of the listed temp. Thus I would expect a 160 stat to start opening at 155 or so and be fully open by 165. (+/- 5 to 7) most are really close to the listed range.
My truck has a huge radiator - I put it in - it did a lot of heavy towing. With a 180 stat. no load, it runs between 175 and 185 all day long. Which is what I would expect.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 64
From: Lakeville, MA
St. Jude Donor '10
Just thought of another possibility that I will be able to confirm once I pull the stat out. I bought the 160 stat, but I guess it's possible that the Lingenfelter 174 degree stat was mispackaged in the 160 box. That would explain why temps are running warmer than I'm used to with a 160
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6,999
Likes: 1,685
From: Southeast TX
I have one of their 174 degree stats on my desk right now. There are no markings or numbers on it to indicate what temp stat it actually is. The box says it's a 174 degree stat with their part number L31055307.
Last edited by old motorhead; Dec 10, 2018 at 02:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,319
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From: Lakeville, MA
St. Jude Donor '10
Originally Posted by old motorhead
I have one of their 174 degree stats on my desk right now. There are no markings or numbers on it to indicate what temp stat it actually is. The box says it's a 174 degree stat with their part number L31055307.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 14,999
Likes: 200
From: Bay Area Ca.
I too saw a consistent 178ish* coolant temp with the 160* stat in my LS3. This would be all the time at freeway speed just cruising.
I eventually went to the 180* stat and see 189-194* depending on rpm at cruise. Which I think is perfect with my 4:10 differential set up.
During the winter here in the Bay Area (mild) I was hard pressed to get the coolant to get above 212* wanting the condensation to boil off with the 160*.
I eventually went to the 180* stat and see 189-194* depending on rpm at cruise. Which I think is perfect with my 4:10 differential set up.
During the winter here in the Bay Area (mild) I was hard pressed to get the coolant to get above 212* wanting the condensation to boil off with the 160*.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 439
Likes: 68
My 05 m6 runs exactly the same in colder weather. I run 176-178 sustained highway in warm weather and high 180’s in under 40 deg....I think the car is somehow compensating to allow oil temps to get up. Bothered me too but it’s the way it’s been.