Haven't been here in a while. work keeps me really busy. Last summer I was on the forums to get help on the RCDLR and eventually was able to get a replacement computer and a TECH2 to fix the car, ultimately, it was the trunk button that broke the car. Well, now it's winter in AZ and cool enough to begin, much needed, maintenance on the car.

I own a dark red 2006 A6 (Z51) and I'm beginning to really work on this car. It has 130K on it, which means, overdue for a timing chain. I have also been fighting an overheating issue with the car when it's over 110F outside (car will get to 240F). Since I have to rip the car apart to get to the timing change, figures I can knock out a bunch of things and only do it once. It's funny how one thing leads to replace 1/8th of the car, but that's the fun part.

Looking to see if my head is right for any thoughts, here are the parts/updates:

• Summit Billet Steel timing set - concerned about this is it is the 2 chain and might need to mess with the timing cover. would prefer not to. This is the area that needs to be address
• COMP Cam 54-412-11 - Mild and should be ok with the stock engine, but give a nice sounds and a bit more power. Since I'm replacing the gears, might as well get the cam.
• Beehive COMP springs - Needed for the cam
• Chevrolet Performance Oil Pump - Might as well replace that while I'm there
• PowerBond HB - Car still has it's stock HB, pretty good for 130K but time to go.
• ARP HB Bolt - not using the old one
• New belts - might as well while I'm there.
• Elite Engineering Oil Catch can - tired of the car drinking it's own oil.
• 160F thermostat - Help with the cooling in the summer
• ACDelco Mechanical Water Pump - Might help with cooling and already there

From there, I'll be inspecting the Oil cooler to insure it isn't broken. Since this work will require the radiator to be remove, I will put in different coolant. The radiator is brand new.

So, according to COMP Cams, the car does not "require" a tune for this cam, but it is recommended and I just happen to have HPTuner for this car and have been collecting data on the car for a while. The car has headers and Borla exhaust with a Vararam intake, so a tune will be good. This will still be using the stock convert at this time.

Any thoughts on the plan? Am I missing anything?

 

Water pump.

 

absolutely.. thank you! Will put on the list..

 

 

Hey Ron,

Yea, I been working like crazy so I haven't been out. I recently had a slight job change, so I'm hoping to play a bit more. if you want to help and tinker with this thing, more than welcome. I'm making sure the plan is sound and I have the needed parts before starting the teardown.. Looking to get everything ordered today or tomorrow and hopefully have it all here by next week. then the fun starts..

-Mike

 

I would goto CPR and get a cam from them, or have Pat G spec a cam.
Melling oil pump over GM performance
Katech c5r chain, and be done. In fact I have one in the garage you can have cheap and I'm in Gilbert
OEM balancer bolt, don't waste money on ARP one.
Mighty Mouse Catchcan is FAR superior to elite
160 t stat won't do a single thing for cooling in summer, just make the car take longer to heat up, and may cause more wear and tear due to extended warm up times.

If you want to deal with heat, do a radaitor.

 

So, I'm interested in your ideas with the CAM and the oil pump. mainly due to no springs for the CAM. Also interested in no need to replace the gears as they have over 130K on them and I do not know how the car was driven before me (I drive a bit nuts). I was 50/50 on the bolt and I already own the catch can, just not installed yet. Also heard mixed reviews about the stat. I already had the radiator replaced by the stealership in 2017 when I notices the overheating and they stated the car will do that when it's over 110F outside.. I disagreed.

I attempted to call CPR in mesa and received only a busy signal. This does not leave me with good feelings towards the shop as they are either to busy, not enough resources, or do not want to talk. Since I'm by the metro mall, it's a drive to them, considering their location. Thus, thank you for the advise on the items. I am interested in the reasoning.

-Mike

 

Wow, a busy signal once and you write off the best LS shop this side of the country. Seems a bit harsh.

Like I said, have someone custom spec a cam, like Pat G. Gears are cheap to grab from any discount dealer or amazon. Never seen the gears wear to a point where they need replacing, but I could give you and upper gear if you wanted. Got a spare laying around.

 

Unreal, I didn't get it once, I called about 10 times. Now, after writing my last post, I did get through am currently waiting on a quote for the work. So, I have not completely written them off and they sure to know you (I dropped your Handle). Will keep posted on the status..

-Mike

 

As for radiator, a new stock radiator won't help cooling. You need one like a dewitts that has more cooling capacity.

 

Was thinking that as well, but since I already had to pay for the brand new one in 2017, not really up for replacing it again when it should be able to keep my N/A engine cooled. Joe brought up a great point, there is a possibility the fan assembly is not working at full power, and since it is pretty old, this is a good chance. He recommended the ProSpeed C6 Fan Kit to get the air flowing properly and cool down the engine. This, with the vented hood, should have me good for the 2019 summer and beyond. If I go any more with the engine, I'll upgrade the radiator. No more stealership for this car.

Looks like the car will likely head to CPR. Just working out timing. thanks for recommending them!

-Mike

 

Prospeed fan setup is great.

Vented hood doesn't really help much at all in my experience. If the car gets hot at low speeds (<45) then the fan will make a huge difference.

 

 

I don't think your car is overheating. 240°F at 110°F ambient seems par for the course. I'd leave the thermostat alone. At that temperature your stock thermostat is just as wide open as a 160°F one would be.

With 130K miles I would replace the valve lifters. The needle bearings in the rollers can go bad and if one does, the roller will drag and it will wipe out a cam lobe, sending metal everywhere.

 

Thanks for that important piece of info. The car is scheduled to be at CPR on the 14th of January for the work. Looking forward to before and after data. Also interested in what else they find that I didn't.

-Mike

 

 

Just my opinion, but for cooling, I'd go with a better than stock fan CFM to move more air at low speeds. Bypassing the radiator oil cooler with an external cooler or using an OEM block-off plate will relieve some of the heat load on the radiator. If you go with an external cooler, don't mount it in front of the radiator and lose the benefit. Same thing with the trans cooler, but not as big of a deal if you stay with the stock converter. Definitely go with the 160 stat, since you can cool off the engine below the stock 186 stat if you get enough airflow. You'll never get below 170, but you won't be limited on the low end at 195. Fairly well seal off the shroud openings around the Vararam to force the airflow through the radiator. The hood vents are both good and bad, primarily depending on your speed. With a stock hood, the fan blows air past the headers to force the air and heat out the bottom. If you have enough speed to suck out air through hood vents, then heat from the headers won't go that direction anyway. Since you already have vents, you can tape them closed as needed to test what works best for how you drive.
I wouldn't bother with a catch can unless you know you're using a quart between 95% oil changes, but since you already have one, you might as well use it. I also agree with Unreal to use a new OEM bolt for your HB. Personally, I wouldn't do a cam, unless I was also doing a FAST intake manifold or planning on one. A 3200 or 3600 Yank would wake up your car more than a mild cam, if just one performance increase is all you ever want.. However, it is more fun to make performance changes one at a time than all together. Maybe that's why I enjoy doing my own work and watching the results of my labors.

Just for reference, I'm at 155K miles with the original trans, water pump, HB, and even original plug wires. I might be changing the WP, HB, and wires in 2019.

 

I'm interested in why you think 130K miles means "overdue" for a new timing chain? I have not heard of any issues in stock cam/heads applications.

I understand if you are doing a cam swap but the OP makes it sounds like the timing chain replacement is reason for the cam swap.

 

Jayhawk,

You make a great point and prompted me to call GM directly to ask this very question. It was one of the "stealerships" which stated 120K for a timing chain replacement. To which, I have a car at 130K and a truck at 120K. I used to own a 2003 Eclipse which also had the same requirements. Contacting GM directly, I got "when they go bad, could survive the life of the motor". So, you are absolutely right and I was panicking for nothing.

Stating that, I do not know real status of the chain as the car was pretty beat up when I got it. I have been slowly bringing it back to life and making it what I want (constant work in progress). Since I need to do something about the overheating and will be fun to play with the car, I'm still good with sending the car to CPR.

In terms of Intake Manifold, I am looking at a FAST, but I also have an LS2. If I go that far, I'll get the LS7 Heads with a FAST intake, but still use the CAM the car is going to get, but don't need that right now.. want to play with this and get status of the engine internals while I'm at it.

Thanks for the input all!!!.. might be able to give back a little with some drone action videos we did today with the car

-Mike