ARH 2" Headers Install Advice Needed
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 792
Likes: 32
From: Tempe Arizona
ARH 2" Headers Install Advice Needed
For those of you that have installed these have you come across any complications or clearance issues. After talking with various people I keep hearing different things and was curious about your experiences. Some say you have to drop the cradle or tilt the engine to get them in and ARH told me they slide right in without having to do so. If I do have to tilt the engine would I be able to just support the engine and undo the motor mounts and tilt the engine without lowering the cradle or would it be easier to just undo the mounts and lower the cradle? I'm going to order a set soon so wanted to know what to expect, these will be going on a Z06.
Last edited by JacobVrrm123; Mar 26, 2019 at 12:58 AM.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 635
Likes: 40
From: nwc CT
I was able to install mine on my 06z without dropping the cradle or lifting the engine. But when I removed them for some reason one side gave me all kinds of trouble and I ended up raising the engine a bit forgot which side it was want to say drivers. As far as fitment mine were the 1 7/8 and it was very tight at the oil pan be very careful there is a brake line you need to bend a little out of the way to keep from rubbing on the headers and you have a tiny piece of heat wrap supplied to protect it I was not to happy with that part but otherwise they fit great and sound great. Also when your all bolted but exhaust wise start the car and listen for vibrations it took a couple unbolt move slightly retighten to get rid of all the rubbing throughout the system.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 792
Likes: 32
From: Tempe Arizona
Thanks for the reply. I'll definitely be extra careful and make sure everything has good clearance and is heat wrapped if needed. Being that the 1 7/8 headers are a tight fit I could imagine I might need to raise the engine slightly to make room for the headers to fit in.
I was able to install mine on my 06z without dropping the cradle or lifting the engine. But when I removed them for some reason one side gave me all kinds of trouble and I ended up raising the engine a bit forgot which side it was want to say drivers. As far as fitment mine were the 1 7/8 and it was very tight at the oil pan be very careful there is a brake line you need to bend a little out of the way to keep from rubbing on the headers and you have a tiny piece of heat wrap supplied to protect it I was not to happy with that part but otherwise they fit great and sound great. Also when your all bolted but exhaust wise start the car and listen for vibrations it took a couple unbolt move slightly retighten to get rid of all the rubbing throughout the system.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 792
Likes: 32
From: Tempe Arizona
To jack up the engine so I can fit the headers in would it be easier to take off the nuts from the top of the motor mounts and jack the engine from the oil pan or is it easier to take the nuts off from the bottom of the mounts?
I was able to install mine on my 06z without dropping the cradle or lifting the engine. But when I removed them for some reason one side gave me all kinds of trouble and I ended up raising the engine a bit forgot which side it was want to say drivers. As far as fitment mine were the 1 7/8 and it was very tight at the oil pan be very careful there is a brake line you need to bend a little out of the way to keep from rubbing on the headers and you have a tiny piece of heat wrap supplied to protect it I was not to happy with that part but otherwise they fit great and sound great. Also when your all bolted but exhaust wise start the car and listen for vibrations it took a couple unbolt move slightly retighten to get rid of all the rubbing throughout the system.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,849
From: Erlanger, Kentucky
Much easier to remove the nuts from the bottom of the motor mounts. You shouldn't need to unbolt the subframe at all. The headers will install from the bottom. Also, for the drivers side, you will most likely need to drain the oil to be able to remove the oil filter; this will give you more room. Passenger side, you will need to unbolt the starter but not disconnect any of the wires. Also, jacking the car up as high as possible will also help.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,326
Likes: 523
From: home
They install from the bottom and if you have a dry sump engine, you will need to remove the two hoses from the oil pan. Here is a list of additional things I do when installing headers:
1- wrap the starter.
2- use metallic heat shield (i.e. DEI) on the primary tubes closest to the starter and oil cooler pipes, secure with metal self locking band straps. It comes in sheets, cut as needed with tin snips.
3- I cut the tunnel plate into 2 pieces right where there is a notch in the tunnel and notch one side of the plate then run the O2 wires up in between the tunnel plate and torque tube.
4- fires sleeve the O2 connectors and secure as far away from the headers as possible with wire ties.
5- fire sleeve the 2 trans cooler pipes where they go over the right side header collector.
6- wrap the right side header collector at the trans cooler pipe area, see #2.
7- fire sleeve the 2 heater hoses.
8- add additional fire sleeve to the wire harness behind #8 primary tube.
9- add a small piece of fire sleeve over the purple wire and connector on the starter solenoid.
10- rotate the knock sensors as needed for additional clearance and secure wiring with wire ties.
11- fire sleeve the clutch slave cylinder line.
12- depending on header brand, wrap #7 primary tube if close to slave cylinder line.
13- add heat boots to the plug wires and secure the coil end with wire ties.
14- if not already there, fire sleeve the engine mounts.
15- use high temp antisieze on all the bolts.
16- no header wrap. I also have had high temp coatings peel off. may work ok for a street car.
17- check for clearance between the chassis flange and where the 4 tubes join the collectors on both sides. I have had to bend the chassis flanges with a hammer. not required on aluminum frame cars.
1- wrap the starter.
2- use metallic heat shield (i.e. DEI) on the primary tubes closest to the starter and oil cooler pipes, secure with metal self locking band straps. It comes in sheets, cut as needed with tin snips.
3- I cut the tunnel plate into 2 pieces right where there is a notch in the tunnel and notch one side of the plate then run the O2 wires up in between the tunnel plate and torque tube.
4- fires sleeve the O2 connectors and secure as far away from the headers as possible with wire ties.
5- fire sleeve the 2 trans cooler pipes where they go over the right side header collector.
6- wrap the right side header collector at the trans cooler pipe area, see #2.
7- fire sleeve the 2 heater hoses.
8- add additional fire sleeve to the wire harness behind #8 primary tube.
9- add a small piece of fire sleeve over the purple wire and connector on the starter solenoid.
10- rotate the knock sensors as needed for additional clearance and secure wiring with wire ties.
11- fire sleeve the clutch slave cylinder line.
12- depending on header brand, wrap #7 primary tube if close to slave cylinder line.
13- add heat boots to the plug wires and secure the coil end with wire ties.
14- if not already there, fire sleeve the engine mounts.
15- use high temp antisieze on all the bolts.
16- no header wrap. I also have had high temp coatings peel off. may work ok for a street car.
17- check for clearance between the chassis flange and where the 4 tubes join the collectors on both sides. I have had to bend the chassis flanges with a hammer. not required on aluminum frame cars.
Last edited by 3X2; Mar 29, 2019 at 11:55 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 792
Likes: 32
From: Tempe Arizona
Can I purchase the fire sleeve at any auto parts store and if not do you have the part number for what fire sleeve that I need to order?
They install from the bottom and if you have a dry sump engine, you will need to remove the two hoses from the oil pan. Here is a list of additional things I do when installing headers:
1- wrap the starter.
2- use metallic heat shield (i.e. DEI) on the primary tubes closest to the starter and oil cooler pipes, secure with metal self locking band straps. It comes in sheets, cut as needed with tin snips.
3- I cut the tunnel plate into 2 pieces right where there is a notch in the tunnel and notch one side of the plate then run the O2 wires up in between the tunnel plate and torque tube.
4- fires sleeve the O2 connectors and secure as far away from the headers as possible with wire ties.
5- fire sleeve the 2 trans cooler pipes where they go over the right side header collector.
6- wrap the right side header collector at the trans cooler pipe area, see #2.
7- fire sleeve the 2 heater hoses.
8- add additional fire sleeve to the wire harness behind #8 primary tube.
9- add a small piece of fire sleeve over the purple wire and connector on the starter solenoid.
10- rotate the knock sensors as needed for additional clearance and secure wiring with wire ties.
11- fire sleeve the clutch slave cylinder line.
12- depending on header brand, wrap #7 primary tube if close to slave cylinder line.
13- add heat boots to the plug wires and secure the coil end with wire ties.
14- if not already there, fire sleeve the engine mounts.
15- use high temp antisieze on all the bolts.
16- no header wrap. I also have had high temp coatings peel off. may work ok for a street car.
17- check for clearance between the chassis flange and where the 4 tubes join the collectors on both sides. I have had to bend the chassis flanges with a hammer. not required on aluminum frame cars.
1- wrap the starter.
2- use metallic heat shield (i.e. DEI) on the primary tubes closest to the starter and oil cooler pipes, secure with metal self locking band straps. It comes in sheets, cut as needed with tin snips.
3- I cut the tunnel plate into 2 pieces right where there is a notch in the tunnel and notch one side of the plate then run the O2 wires up in between the tunnel plate and torque tube.
4- fires sleeve the O2 connectors and secure as far away from the headers as possible with wire ties.
5- fire sleeve the 2 trans cooler pipes where they go over the right side header collector.
6- wrap the right side header collector at the trans cooler pipe area, see #2.
7- fire sleeve the 2 heater hoses.
8- add additional fire sleeve to the wire harness behind #8 primary tube.
9- add a small piece of fire sleeve over the purple wire and connector on the starter solenoid.
10- rotate the knock sensors as needed for additional clearance and secure wiring with wire ties.
11- fire sleeve the clutch slave cylinder line.
12- depending on header brand, wrap #7 primary tube if close to slave cylinder line.
13- add heat boots to the plug wires and secure the coil end with wire ties.
14- if not already there, fire sleeve the engine mounts.
15- use high temp antisieze on all the bolts.
16- no header wrap. I also have had high temp coatings peel off. may work ok for a street car.
17- check for clearance between the chassis flange and where the 4 tubes join the collectors on both sides. I have had to bend the chassis flanges with a hammer. not required on aluminum frame cars.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 792
Likes: 32
From: Tempe Arizona
I really appreciate all the help and advice, I should be getting my headers in next week so I'm trying to get everything ready for the install. Any idea what size and how much I'll need of the fire sleeve?
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 3,606
Likes: 1,067
From: Auburn,WA (30 miles SE of Seattle) WA
2023 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
What SIZE , What BRAND of Fire Sleeve ???
Im on AMAZON looking around
and is this the style with open side or do you cut side open
and then apply and secure with ?????
Do I need to buy those stainless tie wrap bands ???
Im on AMAZON looking around
and is this the style with open side or do you cut side open
and then apply and secure with ?????
Do I need to buy those stainless tie wrap bands ???
Last edited by CamarosRus; Apr 2, 2019 at 07:32 PM.