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most of the break in on a clutch is the engaging and disengagement, so the flywheel and clutch material wear into one another.. One the clutch is engaged, it doesn't know if it is spinning or the engine is cut off.
You should be fine unless the tuner dumps the clutch on the dyno.
I would be more worried about ripping through the gears than just a dyno pull. I would just double check with the manufacturer of the clutch to be safe. I would do at least a few heat cycles as well
I would be more worried about ripping through the gears than just a dyno pull. I would just double check with the manufacturer of the clutch to be safe. I would do at least a few heat cycles as well
Manufacturers recommendation is what I listed in the top post.
And it looks like quite a few people have had problems dynoing without break in due to slippage. I'll check with my tuner.
I recently changed short block to go fully forged and installed Mantic 9000. I did the break in before tune. 500 miles felt like an eternity with the lighter MOI. Ideally I would have wanted a street tune for drivability first. Lighter clutch without a tune take some effort to drive. I didn't want to take a chance with the clutch wearing prematurely. So if your tuner can tune for the lighter clutch first, that would make it easier