2 post vs 4 post for drivetrain removal: best





Anyone familiar with doing such work on either lift: all your comments are appreciated.
Thank you in advance
Todd
I have a 2-post that has everything running overhead so the spot is still somewhat useful.





Anyone familiar with doing such work on either lift: all your comments are appreciated.
Thank you in advance
Todd
You might consider a third option: a mid-rise or full-rise dual scissor lift. These are clear in the middle so you can drop the entire drivetrain. There are no slab limitations, and the mid-rises are often moveable.
Some people cut out square recesses in the middle of the floor and install their scissor lift flush. The lifts are very flat when lowered so the recesses aren't very deep. This is very cool, because the lift is completely out of the way when not in use. Plus you can use it as a work table or loading platform if you need.
Nussbaum Sprinter portable mid-rise
Flush-mounted full-rise from garagejournal.com





Todd
Todd
Most 2-post mishaps involve the lift arms being positioned improperly and the car falling off, which is hard to do with a scissor.
Many scissor lifts have mechanical locks. Basically a pawl that lowers onto a rack. A separate air supply is often required to lift the lock to lower the lift. These strike me as failsafe as anything. Ironically, mechanical locks are getting harder to find on the high-end European lifts, which are relying on fully redundant hydraulics. I still like the locks.
The mid-rise scissor lifts are mechanically synchronized by the big torsion bar at the bottom. Both sides are physically connected. So a single stand under one end of one side will prevent the entire thing from going down. As will a lift sling around the crossbars at the bottom.
Scissors do get narrower as they go up, though, so you need to pay attention to the fore-aft placement of the car. Corvettes should go on the opposite direction as Porsche 911s.
I've removed a C6 drivetrain using a mid-rise. It's a fantastic option for a small workspace.




Anyone familiar with doing such work on either lift: all your comments are appreciated.
Thank you in advance
Todd
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594171542
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594171542
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





The BendPak is at the top of my list due to the complete over-engineered clamp system. I don't have any thoughts of those clamps letting go. Can't say this about all 2 post lifts, but I'm not looking at them now.
Anyone familiar with doing such work on either lift: all your comments are appreciated.
Thank you in advance
Todd
It took me 4 to 5 hours to pull the back half of the drivetrain on a C5 using jack stands. Climbing around under it and in and out to get tools makes it go so much slower.
A 4-post would help, but it certainly would be difficult to use compared to a 2-post. You would definitely need a good bridge jack so you could raise the body up to get the subframe/suspension out from between the car and the ramps. Also, the width between the ramps really isn't that much so trying to work around the drivetrain to disconnect things or check clearances or check alignment would be difficult once the drivetrain is lowered a bit and filling the area between the ramps.





It looks like I am going to have them move the post over a tad, but I am going to sign a waiver stating I understand it still isn't at the recommended distance from that wall(even our truck will only have about the first two feet of the front right side up near that wall, and I will still have more than 28" to the wall from the vehicle. That is the widest vehicle that will go on the lift. All my other vehicles give me plenty of room in the location I want.











