Headers install DYI or pay someone ??
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 700
Likes: 75
From: SW Missouri
DIY, I am currently in the middle of install of Long Tubes, X Pipe, and NPP mufflers on my 05 Z51 6 speed.
All started because my radiator was leaking and after replacing that I realized it was not that bad.
All started because my radiator was leaking and after replacing that I realized it was not that bad.
Last edited by rc51racer; Apr 11, 2019 at 03:39 PM. Reason: spelling
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,326
Likes: 523
From: home
additional things I do when installing headers:
1- wrap the starter housing and solenoid.
2- use metallic heat shield (i.e. DEI) on the primary tubes closest to the starter and oil cooler pipes, secure with metal self locking band straps. It comes in sheets, cut as needed with tin snips.
3- I cut the tunnel plate into 2 pieces right where there is a notch in the tunnel, between the 4th and 5th bolt, and notch one side of the plate then run the O2 wires up in between the tunnel plate and torque tube.
4- fires sleeve the O2 connectors and secure as far away from the headers as possible with wire ties.
5- fire sleeve the 2 trans cooler pipes where they go over the right side header collector.
6- wrap the right side header collector at the trans cooler pipe area, see #2.
7- fire sleeve the 2 heater hoses.
8- add additional fire sleeve to the wire harness behind #8 primary tube.
9- add a small piece of fire sleeve over the purple wire and connector on the starter solenoid.
10- rotate the knock sensors as needed for additional clearance and secure wiring with wire ties.
11- fire sleeve the clutch slave cylinder line.
12- depending on header brand, heat shield #7 primary tube if close to slave cylinder line.
13- add heat boots to the plug wires and secure the coil end with wire ties.
14- if not already there, fire sleeve the engine mounts.
15- use high temp antisieze on all the bolts and the oxygen sensors.
16- no header wrap. I also have had high temp coatings peel off. may work ok for a street car.
17- check for clearance between the chassis flange and where the 4 tubes join the collectors on both sides. Depending on header brand, I have had to bend the chassis flanges with a hammer. Not required on aluminum frame cars.
1- wrap the starter housing and solenoid.
2- use metallic heat shield (i.e. DEI) on the primary tubes closest to the starter and oil cooler pipes, secure with metal self locking band straps. It comes in sheets, cut as needed with tin snips.
3- I cut the tunnel plate into 2 pieces right where there is a notch in the tunnel, between the 4th and 5th bolt, and notch one side of the plate then run the O2 wires up in between the tunnel plate and torque tube.
4- fires sleeve the O2 connectors and secure as far away from the headers as possible with wire ties.
5- fire sleeve the 2 trans cooler pipes where they go over the right side header collector.
6- wrap the right side header collector at the trans cooler pipe area, see #2.
7- fire sleeve the 2 heater hoses.
8- add additional fire sleeve to the wire harness behind #8 primary tube.
9- add a small piece of fire sleeve over the purple wire and connector on the starter solenoid.
10- rotate the knock sensors as needed for additional clearance and secure wiring with wire ties.
11- fire sleeve the clutch slave cylinder line.
12- depending on header brand, heat shield #7 primary tube if close to slave cylinder line.
13- add heat boots to the plug wires and secure the coil end with wire ties.
14- if not already there, fire sleeve the engine mounts.
15- use high temp antisieze on all the bolts and the oxygen sensors.
16- no header wrap. I also have had high temp coatings peel off. may work ok for a street car.
17- check for clearance between the chassis flange and where the 4 tubes join the collectors on both sides. Depending on header brand, I have had to bend the chassis flanges with a hammer. Not required on aluminum frame cars.
