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I am having a cascading series of issues with my new used c6. It started when I drove it to a friends and the car would not start. Battery was not dead but I was locked out, nothing working, column locked, etc. I read up that it could be a BCM issue and to remove the negative terminal and reattach.
I did this, it fired right up, and off I went.
Then today I drove it in to the shop for a wax and the doors wouldn't open 1 hour later. Got inside, no key fob detected, on either key. Replaced the key fob batteries, did not change it. Replaced the car battery for good measure, did nothing.
However, car picks up the fobs in the slot.
I thought maybe I should reprogram the fobs to the car, followed the steps, and I cannot get the DIC to come on for the reprogram. Nothing, no matter how fast/slow I turn that key or if I do exactly 5 turns or 100. I'm locked out of the reprogramming.
Any idea what could be causing this? Any help would be appreciated.
I have an occasional issue with the door not opening but it's usually when the fob is in my lunch bag and not in my pocket. The bag is insulated with a foil material and once I put the fob in my pocket it seems okay. I thought it was either the insulation or the fob battery getting low but without replacing the battery the fob has worked fine 90% of the time (even in the bag) so I don't know. I've not had a "fob not detected" message once inside the car. I would verify though, that your fob batteries are good before doing any other troubleshooting.
I'm ALWAYS having fob problems with mine. Door won't open, trunk won't open - and this is when I'm holding the key in my hand an inch from the car. Also get the "fob not detected" when I try to start AND when I shut it off. (It recognizes it about 5 seconds after putting the fob in the slot in the glove box.)
I've replaced the batteries again and again. Happens with both keys. It's really annoying. I'd rather just have a damn key.
Only '05 manuals had to be put in reverse to park.
Whenever I get no fobs detected I move my cell phone to a different pocket, away from my fob as they will interfere with a signal especially if they are in the same pocket.
#1 problem: Never assume new batteries are good. Fresh CR2032 batteries are between 3.28 and 3.30 volts. The fobs start to fail about 3.10 volts. I recently bought some from Walmart that checked 2.9 or less when I opened the package. Volt meters are so cheap that HF sometimes gives them away with another purchase.
#2 problem: Understanding the modes. There is a difference between how the signal transmission works in the passive mode vs the active mode. Passive requires the fob to be within 3 feet of the receiving antenna for the function you desire. Active can transmit a signal in excess of 200 feet.
#3 problem: RF interference. Lots of things can cause interference. Externally from as big as a failing electrical transformer to as minor as a security camera and internally from cell phones, battery chargers, or aftermarket electrical/electronic equipment.
Just for kicks and giggles, check a few things. Check the battery cable connection to the fuse block and the cable to the starter. Check the main + starter lug. That nut comes loose and causes strange happenings because the alternator wire is hooked to the same starter lug. There is a small ground behind the seatbelt retractor gismo. check to see if these are tight.Check all the obvious grounds
Just for kicks and giggles, check a few things. Check the battery cable connection to the fuse block and the cable to the starter. Check the main + starter lug. That nut comes loose and causes strange happenings because the alternator wire is hooked to the same starter lug. There is a small ground behind the seatbelt retractor gismo. check to see if these are tight.Check all the obvious grounds
. OP never told us if the car starts with the fob in the glove box slot. If it does none of this matters and it would indicate weak fob batteries. We need to know.