CTD

I've had this car for about 10years & have fought a losing battle with the battery. Finally had all the updates completed for this issue a few months ago & thought it was fixed. The battery has drained a few times since & I've started monitoring the current draw with my inductive MA meter.

The logic seems to have changed for the computers going to sleep, I hope someone understands it & can explain. Here is what I've found so for, starting with a fully charged battery & everything off. There is a near 200ma draw continuously for over 10 minutes. At some point after that it will go to sleep with a approx 20ma draw.......that's good. Then @ some time the battery voltage falls to point where the 200ma draw returns continuously until the battery is dead.

This is not an 05 which had the gear issue, I believe that was corrected in the 06 MY.

Any thoughts, suggestions or idea's? I do have an amp hound to try & find a cct that maybe contributing to the issue.

RicK T

Sounds like you are on the right track, you know you have to track it down circuit by circuit until you find the culprit.

This long thread has good info. If you start at post 30 you will see others with symptoms similar to yours. One turned out to be a bad door module. Post 77 has good "battery draw" numbers to reference while you look for your problem. Good luck.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...yndrome-2.html

CTD

Tx's for the link wil give it a read & hopefully some idea's

CTD

After reading the link I thought best to wire my Fluke is series rather than my inductive MA meter. The Fluke DC current is a 10amp scale the reads down to .01A. Sleep timers follow the thread very closely, within the 3 minute window the draw had dropped to .01A, verified with the inductive MA meter less than 20ma.

Going to leave everything for a couple days & see where it goes

CTD

Well....I have had my turd connected in series with the Fluke meter & have observed the draw & kept tabs on the battery voltage with a separate meter. The draw has bounced between .010 & .020 exactly where it should be The battery voltage has moved a little in the 12.6 to 12.7 range just how it should be in a perfect vette world. A couple days of testing watching the meter in the morning & evening.......it's lovely!

I've been wiring my AFX WB so I can get on the dyno & begin the break in & maybe some power runs on the fresh LS3 stroker. The passenger door has been open so ever once in awhile I check the current & it's right between 10-20ma. I'm happy with my WB set up so I close the passenger door, observe the draw & re set the timer so I can watch the computers go to sleep.

It starts the cycling BS, about ever 3 minutes the draw goes up to 3-4 amps, then it cycles down to 180ma & within three minutes back up it goes. I think it must be my piggy back fuse with the heated seats for the WB power, I unplugged it & same BS. Battery voltage is over 12.6vdc.

This is what I found years a go & blamed it on the reflash that I never had done. The reason I had it all updates completed when the motor was installed. So here I am back to square one...expect a new twist

It maybe a valid clue should the culprit ever be identified. I decided to open the passenger door & leave it open observing the draw & timing. The interior lights time out around three minutes, draw is in the 6 amp area. Within 1 minute from that point the computers cycled down & it's resting @ 10-20ma.....no way! I closed the door & tried lock/unlock, it would always cycle & never go below 180ma. Open the door & within 4 minutes the computers are sleeping @ 10-20ma.

So if I'm good leaving the passenger door open my current draw dilemma is solved.

Any thoughts, tips or tricks how I may diagnose this little gremlin I had my little amp hound already to go after the fuses in the footwell except I don't fit down there with the door closed.

CTD

Found this link, it may be helpful:


http://www.teamzr1.com/ubbthreads/ub...at&Number=1659