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At what point are we pushing the outer limits of the stock rear tie rods. I'm at 1000 WHP right now with billet spindles & 15" bead-locks and on the verge of swapping to a larger blower. How many out there are using the stock tie rods at 1300 WHP? I have not had any success running searches in this forum and I never hear of anyone having troubles with their stock ones. Open to suggestions... Thx
2005-2013 C6 Corvette Bump Steer Kit
Replaces inner and outer tie rod ends and joints in rear suspension. Eliminating the stock units and replacing with HD rod end bearings to provide precise alignment control under harsh conditions.
Fitment: 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 C6 Corvette Base Coupe, Convertible, Z51, Grand Sport, Z06, ZR1
@Dane... I intend to run my car in a multitude of racing including 1/4 mile, roll racing and TX Mile. Assuming 1/4 mile is the most abusive to the components, at what point are we approaching the limits of the adjustable tie rods? Other than the billet spindles, I currently have all stock components including control arms & bushings. No transbrake (yet)… mostly wondering how much power others are putting on stock components.
@Dane... I intend to run my car in a multitude of racing including 1/4 mile, roll racing and TX Mile. Assuming 1/4 mile is the most abusive to the components, at what point are we approaching the limits of the adjustable tie rods? Other than the billet spindles, I currently have all stock components including control arms & bushings. No transbrake (yet)… mostly wondering how much power others are putting on stock components.
The main issue with the factory tie rods isn't strength it is that they have slop and aren't precise to work with in setting up the car.
Monoballs in 1/4 mile will keep the arms stationary rather than them moving around and allow your suspension to do its job on the launch, in 1/2 mile & Tx Mile they provide better stability at high speeds. They also give you the ability to dial in better because you don't variances caused by deflection.
Thanks Dane. Just to clarify... when you say Monoballs… you are referring to replacement of the A-plate bushings... is that correct? I completely agree, the rubber bushings in the A-plates need to be replaced with solid bushings. My original concern is with the strength of these toe adjustment rods (even though I have been referring to them as tie rods) circled in red. I'm thinking about replacing these with 7/8" C/M rods and greaseable heim-joints, then tying the two together with a link that runs behind the rear differential (orange line). However, if no one is having issues with these at 1500 RWHP, then no need to go to the time/expense, right. Appreciate the feedback.
Thanks Dane. Just to clarify... when you say Monoballs… you are referring to replacement of the A-plate bushings... is that correct? I completely agree, the rubber bushings in the A-plates need to be replaced with solid bushings. My original concern is with the strength of these toe adjustment rods (even though I have been referring to them as tie rods) circled in red. I'm thinking about replacing these with 7/8" C/M rods and greaseable heim-joints, then tying the two together with a link that runs behind the rear differential (orange line). However, if no one is having issues with these at 1500 RWHP, then no need to go to the time/expense, right. Appreciate the feedback.
Yes I'm referring to the A-Arm's. We pop out the factory rubber and install spherical bushings. I would start with that and then upgrade other components as you see fit/progress with the car.
For what it's worth, at 16k my C6Z had really, really bad stock rear inner tie rods. It was so bad you could move the rear wheels by hand. I drive my car aggressively on twisties but have only had one track day, tires are Michelin PSS. Replaced them with SPL parts. I'd highly recommend you replace them with some thing after market because the stock ones are clearly ****.
Stock Rear Chassis Power Limits
