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Headlight lens replacement issue

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Old Sep 25, 2019 | 08:05 PM
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Default Headlight lens replacement issue

Hi guys,

I was trying to replace the headlight lenses myself according to the posts/documents I have found on the forums. I have gotten part of the way through the first headlight lens but can't seem to get any more of it apart. I feel like I might be missing something because with plastic prying tools, I am unable to slide them down to keep it coming apart but with screwdrivers, the plastic is too soft and is deforming badly, plus I can't seem to get more of it apart. I have had them sit in the oven at 225 degrees for 15 mins before I work on them each time. Here is picture of what I have been able to do and you can see how badly it is deforming the plastic.



Does anyone have any suggestions to help with this?

Thank you

Last edited by Stevengineer; Sep 25, 2019 at 08:06 PM.
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Old Sep 25, 2019 | 08:57 PM
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Steve,

I have not yet performed the removal process myself, but have read up in readiness for that day. RLSebring has DIY Instructions on his website and it appears you are not heating the oven to a high enough temperature to properly soften the adhesive.

Look here for the instructions and good luck.

https://www.c6c7vette.com/

GD
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Old Sep 25, 2019 | 10:20 PM
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It seems to vary depending where you look. Some say 200-250, some say 350. At 225, it started to separate pretty well at first.

Noticed I didn't have a couple of the lower side nuts off yet and when I tried to remove then, the bolt is spinning inside the headlight and I have no way to bolt the bolt stationary while removing the nut. this isn't in the area that would effect where I got stuck, but it's another problem I don't have a solution for yet. I tried clamping the bolt tight with vice grips and turning the nut, but the bolts are buggering up from spinning in the vice grips instead of the bolt coming loose. At this point, I'm starting to debate aftermarket ones. I may be able to use my heat gun instead and work the glue loose but if I can't get 2 of the nuts off, i'll be dead in the water regardless.
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Stevengineer
It seems to vary depending where you look. Some say 200-250, some say 350. At 225, it started to separate pretty well at first.

Noticed I didn't have a couple of the lower side nuts off yet and when I tried to remove then, the bolt is spinning inside the headlight and I have no way to bolt the bolt stationary while removing the nut. this isn't in the area that would effect where I got stuck, but it's another problem I don't have a solution for yet. I tried clamping the bolt tight with vice grips and turning the nut, but the bolts are buggering up from spinning in the vice grips instead of the bolt coming loose. At this point, I'm starting to debate aftermarket ones. I may be able to use my heat gun instead and work the glue loose but if I can't get 2 of the nuts off, i'll be dead in the water regardless.
I got mine off and the first one was looking a lot like yours. Second one was easy after learned how on the first one.

You are very close. Reheat it to 225 pull it out and get it started as soon as you can. Then when you can get a screw driver in the gap (or even hold it open) then reheat the area next to the gap with a heat gun and continue on. Once you get about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way open it will just peal apart. (at least that was my experience)

The nuts on the bottom of the lights ---- IIRC, they are a torx on top. Get a torx socket to hold the bolt with a wrench on the nut. Also if you strip the bolt in the plastic, just pull it out. You can fill the hole with the 2-part JBWeld Super Epoxy and reseat the bolt. This as worked for me every time without fail on plastic.

Last edited by Dutch08; Sep 26, 2019 at 02:04 PM.
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dutch08
I got mine off and the first one was looking a lot like yours. Second one was easy after learned how on the first one.

You are very close. Reheat it to 225 pull it out and get it started as soon as you can. Then when you can get a screw driver in the gap (or even hold it open) then reheat the area next to the gap with a heat gun and continue on. Once you get about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way open it will just peal apart. (at least that was my experience)

The nuts on the bottom of the lights ---- IIRC, they are a torx on top. Get a torx socket to hold the bolt with a wrench on the nut. Also if you strip the bolt in the plastic, just pull it out. You can fill the hole with the 2-part JBWeld Super Epoxy and reseat the bolt. This as worked for me every time without fail on plastic.
Thanks for the tip! Are the bolts threaded into the lens? If the replacement lenses have new bolts, then I can get the bolt out any way I can and it wouldn't matter as long as other parts aren't damaged.
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Old Sep 27, 2019 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Stevengineer
Thanks for the tip! Are the bolts threaded into the lens? If the replacement lenses have new bolts, then I can get the bolt out any way I can and it wouldn't matter as long as other parts aren't damaged.
Yes the bolts are threaded into the "black" plastic part of the lens. It looks something like a wood screw so if you have turned them a few times they are probably close to being stripped. The original and replacement lenses have no bolts at all, they are glued to the black plastic.

Here are some pictures I took a couple of years ago. I take lots of pictures when I work on my car because I can't remember s**t otherwise:

Bolts are removed here from the bottom of the light. Here is one of locations

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Old Sep 28, 2019 | 10:34 AM
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Dutch, it was actually the 3 bolts going to the underside of the painted portion in the headlight that I couldn't get out.

I got the headlights apart, but I ended up breaking all 3 of the studs off on one light and 1 off the second. But I got them, And am letting JB plastic weld setup before I try to re-gasket it together.
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Old Sep 28, 2019 | 10:57 AM
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you needed to bake them higher and longer....my buddy did mine in his powder coat oven as I couldn't get them apart at home...he said he baked them longer and hotter than 225....repeated a few times..
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Old Sep 28, 2019 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Stevengineer
Dutch, it was actually the 3 bolts going to the underside of the painted portion in the headlight that I couldn't get out.

I got the headlights apart, but I ended up breaking all 3 of the studs off on one light and 1 off the second. But I got them, And am letting JB plastic weld setup before I try to re-gasket it together.

Ah! Yeah I broke one of those and now I understand. JB plastic weld will hold up fine. I don't know what happened to my 'vette the plastic seems very brittle like it spent a long time in the sun outside before I bought it. I'm always breaking a small plastic something.

Good luck on the project, the look of new lenses on the whole car is amazing, IMHO. (I know some people don't like them, but try "switchbacks" for the DRL/Turn signals while you're in there they update the look while still being age appropriate for the car.)
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Old Sep 28, 2019 | 11:29 AM
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Switchback DRL’s available from the former named Radio Flyer Innovations now called Sharp Light Innovations. Bulbs and hyper flash harnesses for both sides.
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Old Sep 28, 2019 | 02:39 PM
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We have everything from upgraded LED bulbs for OEM housings to halo rings for OEM housings to complete C7-Style LED headlight assemblies!
Let us know if we can help!

https://www.vette-lights.com/collect...13-c6-corvette
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Old Sep 28, 2019 | 07:40 PM
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Thanks guys, I got it apart by heating it up to 240. The extra few degrees really helped although the plastic frame is a little warped. I did break off a few of the body colored plastic studs in the process, but JB plastic weld seams to have fixed them back on very well.

Last edited by Stevengineer; Sep 30, 2019 at 12:25 PM.
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