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Old Oct 5, 2019 | 09:28 PM
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Default Engine tilting

I can't manage to reach the 12 o'clock bolt on the bellhousing. I've got every other bolt removed aside from 12 and 2 o'clock positions. I lowered the front sway bar, loosened the front cradle nuts so that they are threaded but loose, loosened the engine mount nuts (but haven't removed them). This was all in an attempt to give the engine some wiggle room or flex to access the 12 o'clock bolt. It doesn't really look like the engine moved at all when I loosened the cradle. I just left it for the night. As for the 2 o'clock, the O2 sensor connector is in the way and attached to a bracket bolted to the bellhousing. This one, I can't even fit a socket on. How in the hell am I supposed to get that off?mAny tips? Here are some pics.



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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 12:00 AM
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The way I do the side upper bell housing bolts is with a 3/8 extension 20/24” long and a swivel socket using an extra long ratchet, the upper bolts are best done with a flex ratcheting wrench you don’t even have to see em just put the wrench on it and ratchet it off.
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by xBoostx
The way I do the side upper bell housing bolts is with a 3/8 extension 20/24” long and a swivel socket using an extra long ratchet, the upper bolts are best done with a flex ratcheting wrench you don’t even have to see em just put the wrench on it and ratchet it off.
This and lowering the front cradle as much as possible (leave enough for all bolt threads to be engaged) you should have no problem. My rule of thumb is it you can see it you can get it loose. From your picture you can see it.

Last edited by Dutch08; Oct 6, 2019 at 10:12 AM.
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Dutch08
This and lowering the front cradle as much as possible (leave enough for all bolt threads to be engaged) you should have no problem. My rule of thumb is it you can see it you can get it loose. From your picture you can see it.
Fair enough! I definitely have the extensions and swivel sockets out. They helped me get the first several bolts. The ratcheting open-ended wrench might be what gets the 2 o'clock bolt out, and that flex head wrench for the 12. I don't feel like the cradle really moved all that much when loosened. I'll give it another go tomorrow.
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by xBoostx
The way I do the side upper bell housing bolts is with a 3/8 extension 20/24” long and a swivel socket using an extra long ratchet, the upper bolts are best done with a flex ratcheting wrench you don’t even have to see em just put the wrench on it and ratchet it off.
That flex ratcheting wrench looks like the truth. Gonna have to locate some.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by kjcmusic17
Fair enough! I definitely have the extensions and swivel sockets out. They helped me get the first several bolts. The ratcheting open-ended wrench might be what gets the 2 o'clock bolt out, and that flex head wrench for the 12. I don't feel like the cradle really moved all that much when loosened. I'll give it another go tomorrow.
If I remember, I loosened the cradle bolts and the cradle barely moved. I also loosened the upper A arms and shocks and the cradle dropped so much that all I needed was an extension for the &^%$&$ top bolt. You probably don't need to do that, but I'm DIY type and I'm on my back. I always remove extra stuff because I want to job to be easy I don't care about the amount of work,

Remove the front fender and washer tank for example and do the clutch master and you'll see what I mean.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Dutch08
If I remember, I loosened the cradle bolts and the cradle barely moved. I also loosened the upper A arms and shocks and the cradle dropped so much that all I needed was an extension for the &^%$&$ top bolt. You probably don't need to do that, but I'm DIY type and I'm on my back. I always remove extra stuff because I want to job to be easy I don't care about the amount of work,

Remove the front fender and washer tank for example and do the clutch master and you'll see what I mean.

Yeah I'm also on my back lol. I'd rather not remove those A arms and shocks if I can help it. Almost thinking I should have dropped the entire subframe as a single unit just to replace the clutch haha.
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Old Oct 7, 2019 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by kjcmusic17
Yeah I'm also on my back lol. I'd rather not remove those A arms and shocks if I can help it. Almost thinking I should have dropped the entire subframe as a single unit just to replace the clutch haha.
You don't have to remove the A arms just remove the top 4 frame bolts (keep track of the washers ) and the shock bolt on each side (All though that's probably what you meant.)

On dropping the entire subframe --- yeah me too, LOL. But as near as I can tell nobody does that so there must be a reason, but I do think it would be easier. Don't forget to take pictures the wiring layout as it confused me for a moment on reassembly.
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