Just finished my clutch replacement. Spraying clutch fluid.
#1
Just finished my clutch replacement. Spraying clutch fluid.
I just buttoned everything up in the interior and went to bleed the clutch after pulling everything involved in replacing the clutch. I kept getting air in the line attached to my new Monster speed bleeder, looked under the car and found a puddle of brake fluid on the ground. The bellhousing and the connection between the cats and mid pipe were dripping fluid. I'm sure the problem lies in where the speed bleeder goes into the slave.
My questions are now
1) Can I rectify this without dropping the entire rear cradle again?
2) Will pulling the intake allow me to access the connection so that it can be tightened?
3) What is at risk from all this brake fluid? Should I be concerned about the slave components or will they hold up? Is this going to affect my brand new clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel?
4) Do I need to pull everything apart and clean it all?
I'm really disappointed as I've been busting my *** every waking moment for the last eight weeks trying to stay on top of my homework, make enough money for car parts, work on this huge job during every free moment I've had outside of work and school, and now I feel like I'm back to square one. Disappointed does not begin to describe my feeling at the moment.
Looking for any advice. I guess I'm most concerned with whether or not I need to pull everything apart ASAP to prevent any damage from corrosive brake fluid.
My questions are now
1) Can I rectify this without dropping the entire rear cradle again?
2) Will pulling the intake allow me to access the connection so that it can be tightened?
3) What is at risk from all this brake fluid? Should I be concerned about the slave components or will they hold up? Is this going to affect my brand new clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel?
4) Do I need to pull everything apart and clean it all?
I'm really disappointed as I've been busting my *** every waking moment for the last eight weeks trying to stay on top of my homework, make enough money for car parts, work on this huge job during every free moment I've had outside of work and school, and now I feel like I'm back to square one. Disappointed does not begin to describe my feeling at the moment.
Looking for any advice. I guess I'm most concerned with whether or not I need to pull everything apart ASAP to prevent any damage from corrosive brake fluid.
#2
Safety Car
If indeed the fluid is leaking from where the speed bleeder connects to the slave is very possible that it need to be tightened. The other possibility is that the bleeder broke off when during the re-install of the torque tube. Some people have had this problem with the Tick speed bleeder and I just checked and the Monster bleeder looks to be the same.
1. Probably will need to disassemble everything.
2. I don't think pulling the intake will help.
3. Risk from brake fluid is a fire. Slave should be fine. Yes, it will affect the clutch; the clutch needs to be very clean on all the friction surfaces to properly break in.
4. Probably will need to clean everything very thoroughly. A hose down with Brake Kleen should work fine as long as you can get at all the various surfaces.
If the bleeder is just loose, you might be able to modify some sort of wrench or tool to get to the fitting to tighten it but it will not be easy. But if there is fluid contamination on the clutch and the flywheel surfaces, I am not sure you will be able spray all of the surfaces as there is no removeable panel like on a C5. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
If the bleeder is broken which sometimes does happen, you will need to take it apart again. A lot of people prefer to use the Katech bleeder as it allows for more clearance and less prone to breaking.
It sucks but you don't want to half *** this job. Or you will be doing it all over again and replacing more parts.
1. Probably will need to disassemble everything.
2. I don't think pulling the intake will help.
3. Risk from brake fluid is a fire. Slave should be fine. Yes, it will affect the clutch; the clutch needs to be very clean on all the friction surfaces to properly break in.
4. Probably will need to clean everything very thoroughly. A hose down with Brake Kleen should work fine as long as you can get at all the various surfaces.
If the bleeder is just loose, you might be able to modify some sort of wrench or tool to get to the fitting to tighten it but it will not be easy. But if there is fluid contamination on the clutch and the flywheel surfaces, I am not sure you will be able spray all of the surfaces as there is no removeable panel like on a C5. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
If the bleeder is broken which sometimes does happen, you will need to take it apart again. A lot of people prefer to use the Katech bleeder as it allows for more clearance and less prone to breaking.
It sucks but you don't want to half *** this job. Or you will be doing it all over again and replacing more parts.
#4
Melting Slicks
If indeed the fluid is leaking from where the speed bleeder connects to the slave is very possible that it need to be tightened. The other possibility is that the bleeder broke off when during the re-install of the torque tube. Some people have had this problem with the Tick speed bleeder and I just checked and the Monster bleeder looks to be the same.
1. Probably will need to disassemble everything.
2. I don't think pulling the intake will help.
3. Risk from brake fluid is a fire. Slave should be fine. Yes, it will affect the clutch; the clutch needs to be very clean on all the friction surfaces to properly break in.
4. Probably will need to clean everything very thoroughly. A hose down with Brake Kleen should work fine as long as you can get at all the various surfaces.
If the bleeder is just loose, you might be able to modify some sort of wrench or tool to get to the fitting to tighten it but it will not be easy. But if there is fluid contamination on the clutch and the flywheel surfaces, I am not sure you will be able spray all of the surfaces as there is no removeable panel like on a C5. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
If the bleeder is broken which sometimes does happen, you will need to take it apart again. A lot of people prefer to use the Katech bleeder as it allows for more clearance and less prone to breaking.
It sucks but you don't want to half *** this job. Or you will be doing it all over again and replacing more parts.
1. Probably will need to disassemble everything.
2. I don't think pulling the intake will help.
3. Risk from brake fluid is a fire. Slave should be fine. Yes, it will affect the clutch; the clutch needs to be very clean on all the friction surfaces to properly break in.
4. Probably will need to clean everything very thoroughly. A hose down with Brake Kleen should work fine as long as you can get at all the various surfaces.
If the bleeder is just loose, you might be able to modify some sort of wrench or tool to get to the fitting to tighten it but it will not be easy. But if there is fluid contamination on the clutch and the flywheel surfaces, I am not sure you will be able spray all of the surfaces as there is no removeable panel like on a C5. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
If the bleeder is broken which sometimes does happen, you will need to take it apart again. A lot of people prefer to use the Katech bleeder as it allows for more clearance and less prone to breaking.
It sucks but you don't want to half *** this job. Or you will be doing it all over again and replacing more parts.
Edit
I'm assuming you can still drive the clutch components, irregardless of what state, after salvage, no?
Seems like you *might* have to do it again so budget some time!
Last edited by Hitman227; 10-16-2019 at 07:43 AM.
#5
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2014
Location: Atlanta - - - - - Save the manuals
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If indeed the fluid is leaking from where the speed bleeder connects to the slave is very possible that it need to be tightened. The other possibility is that the bleeder broke off when during the re-install of the torque tube. Some people have had this problem with the Tick speed bleeder and I just checked and the Monster bleeder looks to be the same.
1. Probably will need to disassemble everything.
2. I don't think pulling the intake will help.
3. Risk from brake fluid is a fire. Slave should be fine. Yes, it will affect the clutch; the clutch needs to be very clean on all the friction surfaces to properly break in.
4. Probably will need to clean everything very thoroughly. A hose down with Brake Kleen should work fine as long as you can get at all the various surfaces.
If the bleeder is just loose, you might be able to modify some sort of wrench or tool to get to the fitting to tighten it but it will not be easy. But if there is fluid contamination on the clutch and the flywheel surfaces, I am not sure you will be able spray all of the surfaces as there is no removeable panel like on a C5. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
If the bleeder is broken which sometimes does happen, you will need to take it apart again. A lot of people prefer to use the Katech bleeder as it allows for more clearance and less prone to breaking.
It sucks but you don't want to half *** this job. Or you will be doing it all over again and replacing more parts.
1. Probably will need to disassemble everything.
2. I don't think pulling the intake will help.
3. Risk from brake fluid is a fire. Slave should be fine. Yes, it will affect the clutch; the clutch needs to be very clean on all the friction surfaces to properly break in.
4. Probably will need to clean everything very thoroughly. A hose down with Brake Kleen should work fine as long as you can get at all the various surfaces.
If the bleeder is just loose, you might be able to modify some sort of wrench or tool to get to the fitting to tighten it but it will not be easy. But if there is fluid contamination on the clutch and the flywheel surfaces, I am not sure you will be able spray all of the surfaces as there is no removeable panel like on a C5. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.
If the bleeder is broken which sometimes does happen, you will need to take it apart again. A lot of people prefer to use the Katech bleeder as it allows for more clearance and less prone to breaking.
It sucks but you don't want to half *** this job. Or you will be doing it all over again and replacing more parts.
I've never done it, but it is my understanding that it is possible to tighten the bleeder or clutch line from underneath without removing everything again. You might need to lower the engine cradle a bit. This is not an easy job in terms of access! That "might" fix your problem but you are taking big risk that the clutch is not contaminated.
Don't let this setback get you down. I've personally made a bunch of DIY mistakes but each one makes you a better mechanic and you still make out cost wise. Pro's make the same mistakes you just don't hear about it.
#6
Supporting Vendor
I just buttoned everything up in the interior and went to bleed the clutch after pulling everything involved in replacing the clutch. I kept getting air in the line attached to my new Monster speed bleeder, looked under the car and found a puddle of brake fluid on the ground. The bellhousing and the connection between the cats and mid pipe were dripping fluid. I'm sure the problem lies in where the speed bleeder goes into the slave.
My questions are now
1) Can I rectify this without dropping the entire rear cradle again?
2) Will pulling the intake allow me to access the connection so that it can be tightened?
3) What is at risk from all this brake fluid? Should I be concerned about the slave components or will they hold up? Is this going to affect my brand new clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel?
4) Do I need to pull everything apart and clean it all?
I'm really disappointed as I've been busting my *** every waking moment for the last eight weeks trying to stay on top of my homework, make enough money for car parts, work on this huge job during every free moment I've had outside of work and school, and now I feel like I'm back to square one. Disappointed does not begin to describe my feeling at the moment.
Looking for any advice. I guess I'm most concerned with whether or not I need to pull everything apart ASAP to prevent any damage from corrosive brake fluid.
My questions are now
1) Can I rectify this without dropping the entire rear cradle again?
2) Will pulling the intake allow me to access the connection so that it can be tightened?
3) What is at risk from all this brake fluid? Should I be concerned about the slave components or will they hold up? Is this going to affect my brand new clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel?
4) Do I need to pull everything apart and clean it all?
I'm really disappointed as I've been busting my *** every waking moment for the last eight weeks trying to stay on top of my homework, make enough money for car parts, work on this huge job during every free moment I've had outside of work and school, and now I feel like I'm back to square one. Disappointed does not begin to describe my feeling at the moment.
Looking for any advice. I guess I'm most concerned with whether or not I need to pull everything apart ASAP to prevent any damage from corrosive brake fluid.
Assuming this is the same thing that happened to you (in that it's loose and not actually broken) you can still get up in there with a wrench to tighten it. You'll need to remove the mid pipe and tunnel plate and then it's just a case of patiently working a wrench up in there.
The following 2 users liked this post by subfloor@centurytrans:
kjcmusic17 (10-17-2019),
schpenxel (10-17-2019)
#7
Thanks everyone for chiming in. I think I'm gonna take it to a local shop and let them handle it. As aggravating as that is after doing the hardest part by myself, I just don't have the time or energy with the coming school projects I have on top of work. I definitely let my grades slip the past two weeks and I can't really afford that. Plus, I need to graduate so I can afford a C8 later on
#8
Supporting Vendor
Thanks everyone for chiming in. I think I'm gonna take it to a local shop and let them handle it. As aggravating as that is after doing the hardest part by myself, I just don't have the time or energy with the coming school projects I have on top of work. I definitely let my grades slip the past two weeks and I can't really afford that. Plus, I need to graduate so I can afford a C8 later on
#10
It's EXTREMELY tight up in there but I assure you it can be done. Something similar happened to me earlier this year, in that I wasn't sure which angle the speed bleeder should be at when putting everything back together so I left it loose with the plan to tighten it later but I ended up forgetting.
Assuming this is the same thing that happened to you (in that it's loose and not actually broken) you can still get up in there with a wrench to tighten it. You'll need to remove the mid pipe and tunnel plate and then it's just a case of patiently working a wrench up in there.
Assuming this is the same thing that happened to you (in that it's loose and not actually broken) you can still get up in there with a wrench to tighten it. You'll need to remove the mid pipe and tunnel plate and then it's just a case of patiently working a wrench up in there.
This was the truth. Got it tightened up and now the clutch hydraulics are working great!
#11
Supporting Vendor