REAL bad smell and now it’s dead
#1
REAL bad smell and now it’s dead
While driving yesterday I noticed a REAL bad smell and now today I get in to start it and the starter stops before completing one revolution also the dash goes dark. I give it a rest and try later and boom she starts with almost as much gusto as normal...but the volt meter is down to 10ish if I remember correctly. Took the battery to a shop I’ve been dealing with for many years, that specializes in batts & alts, they load test it and tell me the battery is good.
What happened ??
What happened ??
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2011
Location: SW Florida
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2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Trade it !
#4
#5
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2011
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 13,256
Received 3,089 Likes
on
2,078 Posts
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
#6
Team Owner
Check your alternator, perhaps it is the culprit for the low voltage and the bad smell - it might of melted or toasted something inside but be baely functional at this point
Thanks,Matt
Thanks,Matt
#7
^^^ I will check the alternator. Got the battery on the charger yesterday afternoon and it took overnight to reach 80% (it usually charges much quicker) and yes this is the battery I took to have load tested and was told it was still good. This shop only does batteries and have been there 40yrs, but with the slow overnight charge I’m beginning to think it’s was marginal and was overworking the alternator. It is a 85 series battery but it’s a Bosch, the one that came in the car when I bought the car 3 months ago. It’s a 2010 Vert
#8
Le Mans Master
A local shop told me my battery was good and it ended up having a bad cell... If it is at 80% and not charging the battery is not good... WW
#9
I wound up installing a new battery, a Delco lead/acid 85 series, cleaned the terminals and the 2 grounds that are more accessible when I removed the battery tray for its cleaning. Put it back together with new battery (after a overnight trickle charge to 12.9v) and it started but noticeably slow cranking. Later when the motor was warm it fired more quickly (air temp 65f). The alternator seems to be working, it went to 14.8 upon its start soon dropped to 14.1. I didn’t try it again, not a daily driver.
Can I get to the starter using drive up ramps that probably have 1 foot lift at that area, I’m skinny
Can I get to the starter using drive up ramps that probably have 1 foot lift at that area, I’m skinny
#10
Le Mans Master
Getting to the starter with ramps shouldn't be a problem.. If you have to remove the starter you have to disconnect the exhaust manifold on that side which is a PITA ...You may want to check the solinoid for cracks, this is a common problem with these cars and can cause starting problems.....WW
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Last edited by WW7; 11-25-2019 at 02:43 PM.
#11
Can I do any tests to confirm failure or problems with starter/solenoid while they are in place? To get them off and in hand how much exhaust has to be moved? Thanks
#12
Melting Slicks
Take off the starter solenoid wire cut the end off and install a heavy duty loop end on it and try it
I had exactly same trouble as you and this took care of it.
I had exactly same trouble as you and this took care of it.
Last edited by xBoostx; 11-27-2019 at 09:41 PM.
#13
^^^ thanks, I’ll be goin there next
#14
Should the brake lights come on when you are ready to start your car confirming the brake switch is working
im talking about having the fob in pocket sitting in the car pressing the brake pedal while you have the two green circles on the start button
im talking about having the fob in pocket sitting in the car pressing the brake pedal while you have the two green circles on the start button
#15
Burning Brakes
I just tried that in my 2012 6MT and no brake lights came on.