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C6 Cam swap technique

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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 09:50 AM
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Default C6 Cam swap technique

I have looked at a few threads and youtube postings showing the cam swap procedure of dropping the rack for clearance to the damper. A little hesitant to tackle this myself, I went to a respected speed shop here in South Florida to see what it would cost to have them do the work. While discussing parts, time, tune, etc., I said something about not wanting to tackle the job due to the rack issue and they told me that after the intake is off, you can jack the engine up enough to do the swap without messing with the rack.

Anyone do the swap using this method?
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 03:12 PM
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You'll need to drop the front cradle and potentially move the rack. The rack really isn't too bad once you figure it out. The tabs can be a pain, will need to pry a bit to get the rack out and will need to pry them again (use a crescent wrench and bend outwards gently) to widen them to put the rack back in. Then the bolts will tighten it back up. If you have a milwaukee or air tools it won't be a problem. Just a little time consuming.
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 10:33 PM
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I accomplished the task without moving the rack yes intake off disconnect the steering rod to the rack connection remove front wheels disconnect the upper a arms lift up the motor as high as it goes and support it from motor mount brackets Use 2 x 2” cut to length lower cradle as needed. (Safety first and foremost)

(Torsion bar may have to be unbolted from frame)
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 10:45 PM
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Without me doing a search, what does the average proficient shop charge to do the swap?
How many hours?
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Dene
Without me doing a search, what does the average proficient shop charge to do the swap?
How many hours?
They haven't quoted me yet. I'll post back when they do. I followed another owner's youtube posts where he had a shop buy all the parts (headers/cam kit, etc) and do the install and tune and was between 5 and 6k. They were LG headers and TSP Stage III cam kit and I believe they also installed a trunion upgrade. I would be doing all that and also new roller tappets, so we'll see.
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Old Dec 30, 2019 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Dene
Without me doing a search, what does the average proficient shop charge to do the swap?
How many hours?
im also curious
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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RogerRamjet21
I have looked at a few threads and youtube postings showing the cam swap procedure of dropping the rack for clearance to the damper. A little hesitant to tackle this myself, I went to a respected speed shop here in South Florida to see what it would cost to have them do the work. While discussing parts, time, tune, etc., I said something about not wanting to tackle the job due to the rack issue and they told me that after the intake is off, you can jack the engine up enough to do the swap without messing with the rack.

Anyone do the swap using this method?
I have not done a cam swap in my Corvette (yet). But if (or when) I do, I will be removing the rack. I think getting it out of the way and giving you more space to work is easier than trying to do work in a cramped space. May take more time but I think it is worth it. Check out LS1HOWTO.com. They have a write-up on a C5 but most of it is applicable to the C6.

Also, don't be afraid to tackle something like this on your own. First time I did a cam swap in my 2006 GTO, I was sweating bullets. It is always intimidating at first but isn't bad.

If you want to be intimidated, look up doing a timing chain guide replacement on a 4.2 liter Audi V8. Here is a picture of the back of the engine showing the 4 chains and the clock works:


Last edited by Spaceme1117; Dec 31, 2019 at 07:22 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 09:03 AM
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It's really not that bad to move the rack out of the way. Don't even drop the cradle. The only reason people drop the cradle is to get the rack all the way out. If you just get it as far as you can to the passenger side, then there's plenty of room. Only thing that won't fit is the steering box.
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Old Jan 6, 2020 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Creatre
You'll need to drop the front cradle and potentially move the rack. The rack really isn't too bad once you figure it out. The tabs can be a pain, will need to pry a bit to get the rack out and will need to pry them again (use a crescent wrench and bend outwards gently) to widen them to put the rack back in. Then the bolts will tighten it back up. If you have a milwaukee or air tools it won't be a problem. Just a little time consuming.

NO you do not need to drop the cradle, and moving the rack is not hard. for what a shop charges to do a cam do it yourself, I've done 3 and on 2 I didn't even take the oil pump off, PM me your email I'll send you a DIY pictorial.
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 11:39 AM
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I did a cam swap in a C5 raising motor and tilting the front of the cradle/rack down (rear most bolts still holding it in place) to remove balancer/timing cover and get to the cam (obviously radiator and AC condenser were removed). This was all done on a lift but this could be done on jackstands if needed. No PS lines were touched or disconnected. I believe front UCA were unbolted/lower shock mount unbolted, calipers unbolted and hung from fender.

Not sure if C6 clearances are better or worse.
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 04:40 PM
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i recently did my cam swap on jack stands, i removed the rack. its really not that difficult. as stated before probably getting them out of the little brackets where it bolts down is harder. after that you pull it towards the passenger side till it comes out of the driver wheel well and then bring it back and voila! its out. may not make sense reading it, but once you do it you'll understand.
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Old Jan 9, 2020 | 09:50 PM
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To prevent messing up the steering angle sensor, you may want to secure the steering wheel from turning when it is disconnected from the rack. You can secure the steering wheel with the seatbelt or bungee cords.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 11:05 AM
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My god some of this advice is just laughable the steering column only fits on the steering box one way. If you take it apart with the wheel and the wheels straight it will go back together the way it's supposed to be
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 05:02 PM
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Not gonna read through all the posts here but 1 - you dont have to drop the cradle. You can do it all from jack stands. 2 - If you have the $$ to have someone else do the labor, do it. I did a crank pulley replacement. Took my time but still a PITA.
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by jonjoy
My god some of this advice is just laughable the steering column only fits on the steering box one way. If you take it apart with the wheel and the wheels straight it will go back together the way it's supposed to be
lol. Wasn’t referring to how it fit. Was just trying to avoid the possibility of needing to use a Tech 11 if the wheel or rack gets turned. My bad.
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Old Jan 13, 2020 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaceme1117
I have not done a cam swap in my Corvette (yet). But if (or when) I do, I will be removing the rack. I think getting it out of the way and giving you more space to work is easier than trying to do work in a cramped space. May take more time but I think it is worth it. Check out LS1HOWTO.com. They have a write-up on a C5 but most of it is applicable to the C6.

Also, don't be afraid to tackle something like this on your own. First time I did a cam swap in my 2006 GTO, I was sweating bullets. It is always intimidating at first but isn't bad.

If you want to be intimidated, look up doing a timing chain guide replacement on a 4.2 liter Audi V8. Here is a picture of the back of the engine showing the 4 chains and the clock works:
That actually looks not too bad, maybe try a different example that is actually difficult.
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Old Jan 14, 2020 | 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jonjoy
My god some of this advice is just laughable the steering column only fits on the steering box one way. If you take it apart with the wheel and the wheels straight it will go back together the way it's supposed to be
No, there's more going on with the column assembly than the part you see at the rack. Turn the wheel once either direction and the angle sensor will be out. Turn it more than once and you'll break the clockspring. Securing the wheel with a bungee cord is good advice.
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Old Jan 14, 2020 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by torquetube
No, there's more going on with the column assembly than the part you see at the rack. Turn the wheel once either direction and the angle sensor will be out. Turn it more than once and you'll break the clockspring. Securing the wheel with a bungee cord is good advice.
Thank you! That was my point exactly. Do you absolutely have to secure the steering wheel?......NO. Is it a "Best Practice" to do so?....Absolutely. The "laughable" advice in this instance was given by someone who doesn't know what he doesn't know about the proper procedure and was lucky if he had success in the past by not securing it.
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Old Jan 14, 2020 | 11:37 AM
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There's a pin tool that is installed in steering column assembly so that you don't damage anything when working on the system.You don't absolutely have to use it or secure steering wheel ,just don't turn wheel.The first thing a child will do when getting in a car is to spin that wheel like a top and ruin the clock spring
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 08:17 AM
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So how many cams have ya all done on your cars? My guess would be 0, I've done 3. In my driveway by myself
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