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So I have decided to upgrade the cam on my ls3, and my question is, what else should I do once I have everything apart? The car is a 2013, about 40k miles. Should I replace anything not included in the upgrade kits? Should I do spark plugs? New air fresheners? What should I pre-order before taking this on that I will be happy I took care of now, instead of thinking about it later? Also, is rebuilding the springs and installing the trunion upgrade kits hard enough, where I would be much happier spending an extra 1000 bucks on a set of new heads, and just installing them? Pretend the 1000 bucks would not bother me, those who have done it, would you spend the money next time, or was it not so bad you would rather rebuild?
I would replace the timing chain while it was apart. The valve springs will probably need an upgrade anyway due to a bigger cam so that is a yes. The rocker arms are off and the trunion kit is about an hour install. I just did this 2 days ago. I do have a press to knock out all the old bearings but they come out very easy. Spark plugs are cheap, why not replace them.
Here's what I did on my 2013 C6 with 40K miles on the clock: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...cam-build.html
I've been driving it for a year. I've since had it street tuned by Pat G to get the manners near perfect. Fuel eco is better too. Wouldn't change a thing if I had to do it over.
Thinner head gasket or slightly mill heads for a bit more compression. Remove carbon deposits from combustion chamber and exhaust ports. A fresh valve job and new valve seals. Yes new spark plugs.
You said an additional $1000 expenditure might be affordable soooo hand ported heads might be worth looking into, Tony Mamo comes to mind
The right package; cam, headers and heads will give you a real improvement in response and hp without compromising real world drive ability
Install a new balancer and pin the crank while you are down there. That will make adding FI down the road a lot easier. A new oil pump with a an aftermarket pickup tube retainer plate would be a pretty easy job while you are at it. Check your water pump and steering rack hoses for signs of leaks. Honestly, If I had to do it again I would have installed Johnson link bar lifters and it would have saved my engine from the OEM lifter failure after around 60k miles of running an aftermarket cam and BTR springs. (I replaced the springs every 25-30k)
I always upgrade the oil pump and replace the timing chain. Its always a good idea to rebuild (Clean-up) the heads. Replace the valley cover o-rings and gasket as well.
With a new cam, you will need upgraded valve springs and pushrods. Also, make sure to properly measure for pushrod length. You will also need a new harmonic balancer bolt. I recommend upgrading to the ARP bolt.
As for other things, it is definitely a good idea to upgrade your harmonic balancer as the work is exaclty the same.
For a cam change in an LS3, I would recommend the following:
-Three bolt cam core grind from a reputable company;
- GM three bolt cam gear;
- C5R (or similar quality) timing chain;
- LS2 style timing chain damper;
- Good quality 7.4” .080” wall pushrods;
- Matching (to cam) valve springs (w/ matching tool steel or Ti retainers, if necessary);
- new oil pump, although not necessary, is cheap insurance (Note: if you change lifters to some aftermarket type, like the Johnson 2110s, you may need a HP/HV Melling or equivalent);
- I would definitely install a quality Dampner/“balancer” at the same time. ATI, IW are top shelf and Powerbond seems to be good value for money on balancers.
- Although it’s probably not necessary, you can do a trunnion upgrade to CHE or BTR (since the Comps apparently have an bearing oiling problem)
With the right tools and a bit of patience, changing the valvesprings is not that big of a deal.
But, IF you feel ambitious and want to change the heads (and lifters), then the best bang for the buck would be to get the GM LS3 CNC ported heads from BTR with their .660” springs and retainers already installed and just buy a set of LS9 head gaskets and ARP bolts from Tooley at the same time.
In fact, you can skip all of this and just call BTR. There’s no one better on cam/valvetrain kits and they have super customer service and very good prices and ship as fast or faster than anyone I’ve bought parts from.
I would agree with the CHE manganese bronze trunion bushings so you would never have to worry about failing needle bearings in your trunions taking out your engine
im gathering that if i can afford new heads, i should just do it, as there seems to be a bit of work to upgrade my current heads, not necessarily from a performance standpoint, but from a longevity one. i dont mind spending extra money for it.
im gathering that if i can afford new heads, i should just do it, as there seems to be a bit of work to upgrade my current heads, not necessarily from a performance standpoint, but from a longevity one. i dont mind spending extra money for it.
If you don't mind spending money, contact Tony Mamo and get you a set of his ported Trick Flow LS3 heads. Probably not a better set of heads to be had. Pricey. Just remember...speed costs $'s. How fast do you want to go? I didn't need to go that fast and would rather have the extra cash I saved to spend on hookers and blow....
Then you can sell your stock LS3 heads for 4-5 hundred to help a little, and I mean a very little, compared to the cost of those puppies.
I just picked my new build up from Thompson Motorsports. I’ll do a separate post with the details later but you may want to consider their TMS Frankenstein Heads. These things are real nice!!
Honestly, If I had to do it again I would have installed Johnson link bar lifters and it would have saved my engine from the OEM lifter failure after around 60k miles of running an aftermarket cam and BTR springs. (I replaced the springs every 25-30k)
I doubt my car will see 60k more miles in the next 25 years, Would likely replace heads before that even came close to passing.
For a cam change in an LS3, I would recommend the following:
-Three bolt cam core grind from a reputable company;
- GM three bolt cam gear;
- C5R (or similar quality) timing chain;
- LS2 style timing chain damper;
- Good quality 7.4” .080” wall pushrods;
- Matching (to cam) valve springs (w/ matching tool steel or Ti retainers, if necessary);
- new oil pump, although not necessary, is cheap insurance (Note: if you change lifters to some aftermarket type, like the Johnson 2110s, you may need a HP/HV Melling or equivalent);
- I would definitely install a quality Dampner/“balancer” at the same time. ATI, IW are top shelf and Powerbond seems to be good value for money on balancers.
- Although it’s probably not necessary, you can do a trunnion upgrade to CHE or BTR (since the Comps apparently have an bearing oiling problem)
With the right tools and a bit of patience, changing the valvesprings is not that big of a deal.
But, IF you feel ambitious and want to change the heads (and lifters), then the best bang for the buck would be to get the GM LS3 CNC ported heads from BTR with their .660” springs and retainers already installed and just buy a set of LS9 head gaskets and ARP bolts from Tooley at the same time.
In fact, you can skip all of this and just call BTR. There’s no one better on cam/valvetrain kits and they have super customer service and very good prices and ship as fast or faster than anyone I’ve bought parts from.
basically this! i just did mine and did all of this. when i removed the timing cover i saw the LS3 timing chain dampener was broken inside!. the piece of plastic was wedged up inside so it stayed in place. i replaced it with a similar LS3 dampener ($40 at autozone). i did the CHE trunion kit as well, katech chain, upgraded balancer (ATI is expensive).
When replacing the flimsy LS3 cam spring tensioner that falls apart and falls into your oil pan you can replace it with the factory LS2 heavy duty cam chain damper (p/n 12588670) that is under $14. at the dealer.The LS7's use a lighter duty version of this heavy duty one
For a cam change in an LS3, I would recommend the following:
-Three bolt cam core grind from a reputable company;
- GM three bolt cam gear;
- C5R (or similar quality) timing chain;
- LS2 style timing chain damper;
- Good quality 7.4” .080” wall pushrods;
- Matching (to cam) valve springs (w/ matching tool steel or Ti retainers, if necessary);
- new oil pump, although not necessary, is cheap insurance (Note: if you change lifters to some aftermarket type, like the Johnson 2110s, you may need a HP/HV Melling or equivalent);
- I would definitely install a quality Dampner/“balancer” at the same time. ATI, IW are top shelf and Powerbond seems to be good value for money on balancers.
- Although it’s probably not necessary, you can do a trunnion upgrade to CHE or BTR (since the Comps apparently have an bearing oiling problem)
With the right tools and a bit of patience, changing the valvesprings is not that big of a deal.
But, IF you feel ambitious and want to change the heads (and lifters), then the best bang for the buck would be to get the GM LS3 CNC ported heads from BTR with their .660” springs and retainers already installed and just buy a set of LS9 head gaskets and ARP bolts from Tooley at the same time.
In fact, you can skip all of this and just call BTR. There’s no one better on cam/valvetrain kits and they have super customer service and very good prices and ship as fast or faster than anyone I’ve bought parts from.
thank you for this detailed response. I did call BTR and Texas speed. Both companies said my goals
don’t really correspond to me getting new heads. They both suggested their cam kits. They all include new springs and such. I will be converting to the 3 bolt cam. I will be replacing the dampener and the chain. Thanks again to everyone that chimed in to help, this is gonna be a blast.