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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 10:45 PM
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Default silent but deadly

well my friends ive been thinking doing some upgrades to my 08 Vette A6 first would be to do the usual which is nasty cam ported heads big stall and maybe a supercharger( money permitting lol) second would be to do just a mild cam and maybe a small nitrous kit and third which is what im leaning towards is to do a very unsuspecting stock sounding car maybe a set of ported heads and rod mod LS3 intake with ported TB but with a small stall say Yank PAS 3400 or Circle D 3200 then maybe E85 and a cam that doesn't lope just to be different plus if I do the "silent but deadly" set up I could use the other money that id be using in my first suggestion to get my 02 WS6 up and running again lol anyway the first two options are what I consider the "usual mods" but the 3rd option is not the norm plus would love to see the new 6th gen Camaro and new 5.0 crowds thinking wtf its not stock looking for nitrous and scratching their heads lol anyway give me your thoughts and input all is appreciated
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Old Jan 29, 2020 | 10:54 AM
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A good silent but deadly combo would be an LS3 with a TVS2300 blower, wide LSA blower cam (for minimal overlap and smooth idle), and all the bolt ons. Easy 650 to 700 rwhp and totally stealth. Something like Tooley's Stage 1 PD blower cam would insure no rowdy camisms. Blower is essentially silent until you get on it. Exhaust will usually drown out any blower noise at WOT.
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Old Jan 29, 2020 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Omega Doom
well my friends ive been thinking doing some upgrades to my 08 Vette A6 first would be to do the usual which is nasty cam ported heads big stall and maybe a supercharger( money permitting lol) second would be to do just a mild cam and maybe a small nitrous kit and third which is what im leaning towards is to do a very unsuspecting stock sounding car maybe a set of ported heads and rod mod LS3 intake with ported TB but with a small stall say Yank PAS 3400 or Circle D 3200 then maybe E85 and a cam that doesn't lope just to be different plus if I do the "silent but deadly" set up I could use the other money that id be using in my first suggestion to get my 02 WS6 up and running again lol anyway the first two options are what I consider the "usual mods" but the 3rd option is not the norm plus would love to see the new 6th gen Camaro and new 5.0 crowds thinking wtf its not stock looking for nitrous and scratching their heads lol anyway give me your thoughts and input all is appreciated
My "silent but deadly" combo was in my other race car after I first installed a stock LS7 - 600RPM idle that ran 10.644 the first time I took it to the track.

People usually shy away from upgrades like this as it is admittedly a big project. It isn't however as expensive as you might think though as you can build a complete running LS7 for around $8500 which I'm currently doing as we speak:
  • 5.3 bare block $400
  • $3150 to have it converted to a Darton sleeved 427
  • $300 shipping to Southern California and back
  • $2630 for a brand new forged and balanced rotating assembly from CNC Motorsports
  • $400 for assembly and any other needed machine shop work
  • $1200 for a good set of used heads
  • $500 for other miscellaneous parts
You'd also need an LS7 intake manifold (about $150 on average) and fuel rail but other than that every other external bolt on component is transferrable from your LS3 to the LS7. Assuming you can get a minimum of $3000 by selling your LS3 you'd be looking at around $5500 out of pocket. Compare this to the cost of a blower and you could actually end up going faster for less money.

Just a thought...
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by old motorhead
A good silent but deadly combo would be an LS3 with a TVS2300 blower, wide LSA blower cam (for minimal overlap and smooth idle), and all the bolt ons. Easy 650 to 700 rwhp and totally stealth. Something like Tooley's Stage 1 PD blower cam would insure no rowdy camisms. Blower is essentially silent until you get on it. Exhaust will usually drown out any blower noise at WOT.
damn didn't even think about that combo thanks for the idea
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by subfloor@centurytrans
My "silent but deadly" combo was in my other race car after I first installed a stock LS7 - 600RPM idle that ran 10.644 the first time I took it to the track.

People usually shy away from upgrades like this as it is admittedly a big project. It isn't however as expensive as you might think though as you can build a complete running LS7 for around $8500 which I'm currently doing as we speak:
  • 5.3 bare block $400
  • $3150 to have it converted to a Darton sleeved 427
  • $300 shipping to Southern California and back
  • $2630 for a brand new forged and balanced rotating assembly from CNC Motorsports
  • $400 for assembly and any other needed machine shop work
  • $1200 for a good set of used heads
  • $500 for other miscellaneous parts
You'd also need an LS7 intake manifold (about $150 on average) and fuel rail but other than that every other external bolt on component is transferrable from your LS3 to the LS7. Assuming you can get a minimum of $3000 by selling your LS3 you'd be looking at around $5500 out of pocket. Compare this to the cost of a blower and you could actually end up going faster for less money.

Just a thought...
no sir that's more than just a thought lol but as always I appreciate your info actually thinking of doing some thing similar drag wise but before I get involved I like to address the pro and cons of each option but let me ask you this..... why the 5.3 block and not just use the 6.2 or even a 6.0 block ???
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Omega Doom
no sir that's more than just a thought lol but as always I appreciate your info actually thinking of doing some thing similar drag wise but before I get involved I like to address the pro and cons of each option but let me ask you this..... why the 5.3 block and not just use the 6.2 or even a 6.0 block ???
The 5.3 block is a lot cheaper and Steve (from Race Engine Development - the company that's doing the sleeves) recommended it specifically as I think he said it's actually a better and stronger overall design.

Just found his email - he said the 5.3 is the strongest of the factory castings.

Last edited by subfloor@centurytrans; Jan 31, 2020 at 06:26 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2020 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by subfloor@centurytrans
The 5.3 block is a lot cheaper and Steve (from Race Engine Development - the company that's doing the sleeves) recommended it specifically as I think he said it's actually a better and stronger overall design.

Just found his email - he said the 5.3 is the strongest of the factory castings.
do you find the Darton sleeved 5.3 block stronger than the aftermarket offering or just cheaper
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Old Feb 7, 2020 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Last 1
do you find the Darton sleeved 5.3 block stronger than the aftermarket offering or just cheaper
No idea as I haven't actually run one yet. So far I've only ever run stock LS7 blocks.
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Old Feb 8, 2020 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by subfloor@centurytrans
No idea as I haven't actually run one yet. So far I've only ever run stock LS7 blocks.
I'm assuming the sleeving process is done to an iron block 5.3L. I wonder how the aluminum block 5.3L's compare, strength wise, to the LS2,3, or 7's?
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Old Feb 8, 2020 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by old motorhead
I'm assuming the sleeving process is done to an iron block 5.3L. I wonder how the aluminum block 5.3L's compare, strength wise, to the LS2,3, or 7's?
The one I'm building is based on a 5.3 aluminum block.
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Old Feb 8, 2020 | 06:39 PM
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I would bet Steve @ RED does not sleeve 5.3 Iron blocks,
The Gen IV 5.3 Aluminum are the strongest OE NA LS
Blocks gm made and the best to sleeve.

My Silent but Deadly combo would utilize a Cam Motion Schmedim LLSR
(Which are much quieter & Stable than hydraulics) something like
235*/243* 114*+3* .670"/.650"
(remember to subtract roughly 6 degrees duration to adjust for lash
when converting to a hydraulic equivalent).
Combined with a MamoMotorsports (MMS) LS3 Heads,
which flow 380+ CFM @ .650" through a 260 CC Port!
and Ported FAST Intake with both Standard & Mid_length Runners.
550-570+ RWHP with Fantastic Low Speed Manners.
Just my .02
Good Luck
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Navy Blue 210
I would bet Steve @ RED does not sleeve 5.3 Iron blocks,
The Gen IV 5.3 Aluminum are the strongest OE NA LS
Blocks gm made and the best to sleeve.

My Silent but Deadly combo would utilize a Cam Motion Schmedim LLSR
(Which are much quieter & Stable than hydraulics) something like
235*/243* 114*+3* .670"/.650"
(remember to subtract roughly 6 degrees duration to adjust for lash
when converting to a hydraulic equivalent).
Combined with a MamoMotorsports (MMS) LS3 Heads,
which flow 380+ CFM @ .650" through a 260 CC Port!
and Ported FAST Intake with both Standard & Mid_length Runners.
550-570+ RWHP with Fantastic Low Speed Manners.
Just my .02
Good Luck
im actually leaning towards the Cam motions "mild" stage 3 grind but still up for discussion on the LLSR and only because of the additional cost but yea your combo idea would be killer thanks
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 11:47 PM
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So what kind of 1/4 mi times do you consider to be "deadly"? Just askin'
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
So what kind of 1/4 mi times do you consider to be "deadly"? Just askin'
lol really I had NO set expectations just the fact that todays younger crowd is so amped up about mods and HP I really wanted a car that sounded stock but ran unbelievably too fast making them do the usual crying about "you got nitrous" lol anyway I already know with Bolt ons and a stall the potential are high 10s in the 1/4 so that's good enough for me
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Omega Doom
lol really I had NO set expectations just the fact that todays younger crowd is so amped up about mods and HP I really wanted a car that sounded stock but ran unbelievably too fast making them do the usual crying about "you got nitrous" lol anyway I already know with Bolt ons and a stall the potential are high 10s in the 1/4 so that's good enough for me
Good call! Honestly if one really went after a bolt on record bottom 10s is with in reach. You can get to the mid 10s pretty slick. 10.8 was years ago. Try not to use 1.85 rockers all the OMG it touches oil crowd will stone you LOL (I have a set for sale )
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by lazerlemonta
Good call! Honestly if one really went after a bolt on record bottom 10s is with in reach. You can get to the mid 10s pretty slick. 10.8 was years ago. Try not to use 1.85 rockers all the OMG it touches oil crowd will stone you LOL (I have a set for sale )
you got my attention sir enlighten me...……. but before you do right now im thinking or leaning towards the Circle D4k or Yank PAS 3800 stall converter along with maybe the LS9 cam and only because its so cheap and it is technically a factory corvette camshaft lol im thinking I can get close to 6.9's 1/8 or 10.9s 1/4 with just the stall alone now I do not want to do any weight reduction other than drag wheels aka Big and littles aka fats and skinnies or as in todays terms a Drag pack lol so maybe a UD pulley for a tad bit extra HP( I know I know like 2-3 HP ) and going to get the vette air scoop along with the Haltech beehive cover which my car doesn't have and maybe try a set of 275/40/17s but id like to keep using the 305/35/18 MTs my other issues is which Drag wheels can be used on a Base model aka Narrow body with big brakes? my car came with Z06 brakes and TSW interlagos when I bought it
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 10:48 PM
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Even if they gave you the LS9 cam, it's not a good choice. I'd keep the stocker before using that cam.
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Old Feb 11, 2020 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by old motorhead
Even if they gave you the LS9 cam, it's not a good choice. I'd keep the stocker before using that cam.
you don't think it would be good for a few extra ponies? 20-25 maybe?
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Omega Doom
you don't think it would be good for a few extra ponies? 20-25 maybe?
For the effort you would be going through I would put a titan 2 cam or equivalent. Put a good set of valve springs like psi 1516s (everyone hates on a beehive but you can loose a pound out of the valvetrain) Dont touch the heads they are capable of supporting way more power than you will make. E85 will only help with about 30% ethanol, anything more and its just wasting energy (you wont see a gain and tax the stock injectors). We built a ram air for my car and it really works well. Car sees 101kpa on wide open pulls. Gear would be my only other suggestion but before I did it I would see how the set up performs. Its a pricey mod.
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Old Feb 12, 2020 | 04:51 PM
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So, here ya' go. How silent do you want to be and how deadly do you want to be? Lots of good stuff above. If you're not going the p/d blower route (ultimate silent but deadly rig in my book), your cam choice and cubic inches are going to dictate how silent you are, and how deadly you are. You can get by with less camshaft (more silent) with port work on the heads and intake manifold.

3.42 diff gears are an excellent A6 upgrade if you're more into racing from a dig...providing you can hook 'em. Spinnin' ain't winnin'. Lots of ways to skin that cat. Vettes are an AWESOME platform to play with. Light vehicle weight with a very capable engine, tranny, and rear end. Just begging to go faster.
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