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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 09:09 AM
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Default Torque tube flexibility

Finally getting ready to change fluid in my 2008 Base A6 tranny. I've researched the procedure and feel pretty confident in all of the steps. One question I have is about jacking the tranny in order to gain access to the rear bolts on the pan. How flexible is the torque tube? Is there a danger of doing any damage by jacking the trans a slight amount? From diagrams I see, it appears the tube is rigid and since the engine is mounted and immovable, I just wonder how much flex the tube will take. I know many on the forum have done this maintenance, so I appreciate input.
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 12:51 PM
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Euthymicone
Finally getting ready to change fluid in my 2008 Base A6 tranny. I've researched the procedure and feel pretty confident in all of the steps. One question I have is about jacking the tranny in order to gain access to the rear bolts on the pan. How flexible is the torque tube? Is there a danger of doing any damage by jacking the trans a slight amount? From diagrams I see, it appears the tube is rigid and since the engine is mounted and immovable, I just wonder how much flex the tube will take. I know many on the forum have done this maintenance, so I appreciate input.
The engine + torque tube + gearbox is one rigid assembly attached to the chassis through four rubber mounts.

If you loosen the two transmission mounts and lift the gearbox, the whole assembly will rotate on the front engine mounts.
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 01:33 PM
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Thanks for the reply. Now it makes sense. I wasn't aware the engine had only front mounts. Part of the learning curve. Appreciate the info!
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Old Feb 9, 2020 | 05:49 PM
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I lift up my ‘11 A6 car put it on jack stands and remove the trany oil pan without jacking up the trans using with a 10mm 1/4 inch flex socket on that left rear conner bolt then after I removed the pan the first time I hand grinded with a 3/8 inch porting tool the access to that bolt be easier the next time so is best to take a black marker and mark where, then I welded a oil pan plug for easier drain next time.

Last edited by xBoostx; Feb 9, 2020 at 05:59 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by xBoostx
I lift up my ‘11 A6 car put it on jack stands and remove the trany oil pan without jacking up the trans using with a 10mm 1/4 inch flex socket on that left rear conner bolt then after I removed the pan the first time I hand grinded with a 3/8 inch porting tool the access to that bolt be easier the next time so is best to take a black marker and mark where, then I welded a oil pan plug for easier drain next time.
I had initially thought I could access the bolts without jacking the trans, but wonder if it will be too tight to get my fingers in there to reassemble. I think I will try it before jacking though. The welded drain plug is a great idea--but I don't have the equipment. Thanks for the info.
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Euthymicone
I had initially thought I could access the bolts without jacking the trans, but wonder if it will be too tight to get my fingers in there to reassemble. I think I will try it before jacking though. The welded drain plug is a great idea--but I don't have the equipment. Thanks for the info.
While it is possible to get to them without jacking up the transmission, it's a really tight squeeze. It's a lot easier just to remove the 4 18mm bolts at the bottom of the cradle and then just jack it up a bit.
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by subfloor@centurytrans
While it is possible to get to them without jacking up the transmission, it's a really tight squeeze. It's a lot easier just to remove the 4 18mm bolts at the bottom of the cradle and then just jack it up a bit.
I agree. Heading to the garage now to start the project. Shift cable grommet change (both ends) , diff check, engine oil, trans. Looking forward to getting out on the road when weather clears! Will see how the trans works out. Thanks.
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Euthymicone
I agree. Heading to the garage now to start the project. Shift cable grommet change (both ends) , diff check, engine oil, trans. Looking forward to getting out on the road when weather clears! Will see how the trans works out. Thanks.
Leave a thread or two on the trans mount nuts to be assured it stays in place for reassembly. You'll still have plenty of room to remove/replace the pan bolts. I covered that aspect when I wrote the fluid change instructions, but if those weren't in what your researched, here's the link. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tructions.html
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Old Feb 10, 2020 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Leave a thread or two on the trans mount nuts to be assured it stays in place for reassembly. You'll still have plenty of room to remove/replace the pan bolts. I covered that aspect when I wrote the fluid change instructions, but if those weren't in what your researched, here's the link. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tructions.html
I did read that somewhere about leaving a few turns on the trans mount nuts. And I thank you for your write up on the procedure. It is one of the most comprehensive that I have found, and that is what I am using for step by step guidance. Taking a break right now, but everything is going according to plan. I find I will have to jack up the trans as the space for those rear bolts is just too tight. Thanks again for your guidance.
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